Anyone who thinks that by using a torque stick they will be 'close enough', needs to consider that the FSM torque spec for that bolt is a combination of an initial torque, followed by 2 torque-to-angles. So there is not even an exact single numerical torque spec available, and the already imprecise torque stick will be that much worse, due to having to guess what the single value torque might be. IMO the folks who use impact tools to reinstall these crank bolts are very fortunate if nothing bad happens.
You are carrying on a good conversation here, and sound like someone who is will to go the extra mile to get a job done correctly. So I'm posting the write up of the method I've used (3 times) for the crank bolt on our Aveos. I'm not pushing this because the initial setup is a bit of a PITA to get everything collected and working correctly, and removing the starter to pin the flywheel is likely to be less work (the first time anyway). But I can tell you it does work, if you're interested in giving it a try.