•  
    Results 1 to 8 of 8

    Thread: Crank pulley bolt removal - another way

    1. #1
      Almost time to do my timing belt
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Northeast
      Posts
      1,410
      Thanks
      3
      Thanked 103 Times in 94 Posts

      Crank pulley bolt removal - another way

      Although I don't think this will appeal to many folks, but I'm posting it because I believe in trying to share information. These auto forums have been hugely helpful to me, and I'd like to return the favor whenever possible. This came about because I personally don't care for any of the other ways of removing and installing the crankshaft pulley (aka harmonic balancer) bolt, for an Aveo automatic tranny. But I was really impressed with the design that Honda uses when I did the timing belt job on my daughters Civic. Their method uses an insert built into the crank pulley itself, which provides the way to lock the pulley while removing the bolt. So this method is a home-brewed version of the Honda approach. I'm sure that those using the typical methods of handling this job will continue to use them, and I'm not trying to convince anyone to switch to this if they've had success with something else. But if anyone is looking for an alternative approach, you might want to consider this. I was very pleased how it worked out, and now wouldn't consider doing it any other way. So FWIW, here's how it goes.

      The first pic below shows most of what's needed. On top is a standard Honda 50mm crank pulley bolt removal tool, which costs around $20. in the middle are 4 metal locking tabs. These tabs slide into the 4 open slots on the back, outside edge of the pulley. They are 1.5" wide, which is slightly less than the width of the slots, resulting in a snug but not binding fit. The stuff on the bottom is a bunch of miscellaneous pieces of metal, which are used to fill in the gaps, as shown in the pics to follow.

      The second pic shows the tabs inserted into the slots in the pulley. The one on the top left is partially out of the slot to show how they fit into the slots.

      The third pic is with the pulley removal tool inserted into the opening formed by the tabs. This fit is just snug enough to require the tool to be tapped into place with a small hammer. It's immediately obvious from this pic that this is not yet a solid arrangement. The tabs form a square, and would not stop the hex-shaped tool from turning.

      In the fourth pic, the key to stopping the tool from moving is the extra pieces of metal, which are inserted into the various openings. Although this looks kludge, it's highly effective in locking the pulley tool into place. The 4 tabs are pinned into the pulley slots, and the extra metal pieces bridge the gaps and completely lock the tool into place and prevent it from rotating inside of the pulley. It's essentially a simulated hex opening, and was rock solid for both the bolt removal and also the reinstall of 80', 30,15.

      The final pic shows the full setup using 1/2" extension, breaker bar, and a jack stand to keep everything steady. And although it's hard to see, there is another breaker bar which is attached to the pulley removal tool, anchored at an angle to the ground.


      Attached Images Attached Images      

    2. #2
      Lifetime owner
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Pittsburgh
      Posts
      8,013
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      2
      Thanked 170 Times in 141 Posts
      The only issue i have with your method is that you are using the rubber dampener as the holder. Al those "sharp" pieces of metal can cut the rubber and lead to failure of the pulley.


    3. #3
      Almost time to do my timing belt
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Northeast
      Posts
      1,410
      Thanks
      3
      Thanked 103 Times in 94 Posts
      Quote Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit View Post
      The only issue i have with your method is that you are using the rubber dampener as the holder. Al those "sharp" pieces of metal can cut the rubber and lead to failure of the pulley.
      No, actually these 4 slots in the crank pulley are not located in the rubber dampener area, and are solid metal on all sides. The tabs I built dont touch any of the rubber area. I get the feeling that someone designed them in to allow for a countering tool to be used. It would be a simple thing for someone with good metal fabricating equipment to build 4 custom fit inserts, which would then allow the pulley to accept either a square or hex-shaped countering tool, depending on how the inserts were shaped.
      An opportunity there for someone to make a few bucks.
      Last edited by avguy; 07-08-2013 at 01:39 PM.

    4. #4
      Should I keep it? Lola's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Wasilla
      Posts
      77
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      It would be awesome if a tool maker made one of those for us...

      One method I've used alot and I mean alot! is to pull #1 Spark Plug and Rotate the crank left from #1 TDC from the compression stroke. Very Important! You can usually watch the piston travel down than stop through the spark plug hole. Than shove that cylinder full of soft rope. It's easy every time. After you can't get anymore rope in the hole that you can torque the Crank Bolt to spec. The crank will rotate a bit, the piston will travel up the cylinder and squish the soft rope against the head and the shut Exhaust valve (because it's on the compression stroke) and the engine is now locked in a safe manner. After the bolt is torqued you can turn the crank left a bit again and pull the rope out.

      Or if you need to loosen the Crank Bolt it's the same but on the right side of #1 TDC. Pull #1 Spark plug and turn it right till you hit the compression stroke. Rotate the crank past Top Dead Center to the right and watch the piston travel down the cylinder (Power Stroke). Shove if full of rope and turn the bolt left till it squishes the rope against the head and shut valves... gets tight... than backs out.

      Manual guys have it easy. Just put it in 5th, Yank the E-brake and do it to it.
      Last edited by Lola; 07-24-2013 at 10:57 PM.

    5. #5
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      MN
      Posts
      102
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      I've also used an old serp belt to buffer the jaws of a big channel lock to help hold, or even just an old belt itself as a "noose" per say with a tool wedged in the other loop/end/vice grips/etc to stop it from turning. Be careful, belts can stretch, spring, and break. Happy improvising

    6. #6
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Fort McMurray
      Posts
      193
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      i used an impact, probably not recommended but had it off in about 10 seconds

    7. #7
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Aveo5_boy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Location
      Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      250
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
      To remove the pulley I used an impact gun and to install the pulley (automatic trans) I wrapped the pulley with a bicycle tire tube a few times then used a chain wrench over the tube. This method works great because of the grip from the rubber not making it slip and it protects the pulley from damage using the chain wrench.

    8. #8
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Fort McMurray
      Posts
      193
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      yeah mine is a manual, i left it in gear and had a helper step on the brake.





    Similar Threads

    1. Torque Specs for Crank Pulley, Water Pump, Tensioner Pulleys ?
      By john_johnson in forum Engine & Drivetrain
      Replies: 1
      Last Post: 03-30-2014, 05:35 PM
    2. How to remove crank pulley bolt?
      By snrusnak in forum Engine & Drivetrain
      Replies: 9
      Last Post: 12-02-2013, 12:39 PM
    3. crankshaft pulley bolt NEED help fast
      By Harmoney in forum Engine & Drivetrain
      Replies: 5
      Last Post: 07-26-2013, 07:03 PM
    4. Alutec Lightweight Crank Pulley (E-TEC II engine)
      By NextGenTuning in forum Products
      Replies: 39
      Last Post: 02-01-2012, 09:10 PM
    5. light weight crank pulley
      By byron84 in forum Engine & Drivetrain
      Replies: 12
      Last Post: 05-09-2010, 02:22 PM

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •