Adding power door locks

[redrob]

Well all is finally done....................and my knees hurt. Anyways I will post pics soon but I was just too tired to do it right now(yes hhok up a wire and push some buttons)but it really wasnt as bad as I thought it was going to be. I wired all four doors and added an alarm(thank you serega for the how-to)as well. It is the avital 2101l(simple cheap alarm)that I really just wanted to lock/unlock the doors. Although after talking to some ppl I decided I will not add power windows, but I will post up the pics tonight.

[Sidewinder]

Do you think that kit could be modified to control the rear unit for the hatch? I talked to a local installer about hooking up a power latch from an Aveo/Wave/G3 that had power locks and he says it should be possible. I'd like to do the power locks but I also would like it to control the hatch.

[daug1502]

Remote hatch would be nice. And I wouldn't have people pulling at my license plate lights looking for the door handle lol.

[rodo]

Heres a link to the kit:
4 DOOR REMOTE POWER DOOR LOCK SOLENOIDS PROCESSOR KIT | eBay
I would have to pull the plastic back off as well as the door panel to get pics. I had to use duct tape to get the plastic sheeting back in place after cutting it. So probably won't take any pics at this point.

Probably same or similar to this $30 ebay gun-style actuator kit I installed last week, so here are some pics:


No complaints other than the relatively short rods didn't allow positioning the rod connecting blocks at openings in the front door sheet metal; made it a bit harder to install and adjust. The seller said the control unit would support a 5th actuator and the Aveo hatch has a great layout for mounting one, but didn't have time to solve the wire routing problem. The harness is configured for placing the control unit somewhere under the dash on the driver's side. The 5-wire actuator for the driver's door enables the other actuators to be manipulated by the driver's door key or lock knob in addition to the remotes. Only comments are 1) the harness fits well, but there is not much slack - so pays to check the routing before tying the wires down, 2) the cheap insulators on the bullet connectors were loose enough that it was necessary to secure them with electrical tape, and 3) loosely wrapping the long wire runs with electrical tape is not necessary, but made it easier to handle and mount the wires.


The bullet connectors are pre-installed, so the front door wires must be cut to run them through the door "molex" connector. There's a great resource about dealing with these here: How to wire through a door molex. One lesson learned is to reattach the boot to the connector BEFORE reseating it into the A-pillar - it is almost impossible to fit once the connector is back in place.


There are not many places to install the gun-type actuators that don't block panel attachment holes, avoid the window mechanisms, and permit the needed orientation. The main requirement is that the actuator movement be kept parallel to the movement of the lock rod; they supposedly wear out prematurely if forced to operate at a significant angle. Here are the two locations I used showing how the actuator rods were bent to maintain parallel movement:


The rear door actuators were technically mounted "upside down", so was necessary to reverse the wires for the correct lock/unlock action. After dealing with the "molex" connecters, the rest of the wiring was pretty typical. The weather barrier sheet does not have to be removed, but peeled back on two or three sides. Here's the route I used on the front doors to keep the wires away from moving parts and sharp edges:


Wires to the rear doors were routed through the B-pillar using the MOPAR looms as shown here:


The control unit was tie-wrapped to a bracket between the steering wheel and fuse box. A small patch of foam sheeting was attached to the case with weatherstrip adhesive to prevent any noise from movement against the bracket. Attached the ground lead to a body bolt and power to the orange door lock line off the back of the fuse box. I used a "U"-type connector sized for 18-14 gauge wire as I didn't know wire size being tapped. Had to use the Dorman "weatherproof" connector because the new "interior" type is only good for 16-14 gauge. Some don't like or trust these connectors, but I've never had any trouble with ones installed in autos for over a decade.

Did this in conjunction with a seat-out detail of the car, so don't have a pure time estimate. However, it was enough hours that I'd jump at the $30 per door professional install quoted here by someone else... and even consider the $70 per door also mentioned before doing it again on an Aveo.

Here's a summary of the additional supplies used in the install:

• Electrical tape
• Thread locking fluid - used to secure the screws in the rod connecting block.
• Solder/heatshrink tubing, crimp connectors, or other means of reconnecting wires cut for the door "Molex" feed.
• Wire looms/conduit for rear doors if not already equipped.
• Tube of yellow weatherstrip adhesive for reattaching the weather/moisture barrier to the doors. Only needed if they have been removed in the past, should be able to peel back and reattach with the original adhesive at least a couple times.
• Tie wraps - small ones for tying down wires and larger ones for mounting the control unit.
• "U" connector or other means of tapping into a constant 12V circuit for power.
• Round toothpicks - used to release the fender side of the "Molex" connector where other tools wouldn't fit. Benefit is that they can be broken to whatever length works best for your size hands.
• Foam or other sound deadening/anti-rattle material as needed.

[MoneyMike]

There was a set that I wanted to get, might still. But, I think that I'd just have the master lock/unlock control, and put it somewhere in the center console, possibly. I also do want to do a trunk release for the hatch, and I'll put the button for it inside the glovebox. I'm stealing that idea from the Pontiac G8's (that's where I saw it first, at least). I also might consider doing power windows, as my 4 (almost 5) year old niece likes to play with them when she's in my car. But, the windows being manual don't really bother me otherwise.

[petrified.rabbit]

the g8 is the first car you have seen with a hatch release button? or just the hatch release button in the glove box?

nice documentation of your work. I think i would "hook" the ends of the rods though, so if the clamps loosen at all they will still operate. although, the last set of aftermarket locks I did i welded the rods to each other.

did you use disconnects in the jambs? Another thing, you might want to add fuses to each individual lock line. Not necessary, but it would let only one lock cease to operate versus killing the whole system should a wire get pinched, shredded etc.

[rodo]

But, I think that I'd just have the master lock/unlock control, and put it somewhere in the center console, possibly.

I considered mounting it there to make use of the power connections for the OEM remote box. The circuit for this option was present at the fuse box, but could not find the connector/wires under the console. Could have been there taped off under the carpet or elsewhere, I just didn't have time to search for it. The other demotivator was that I would have had to extend 7 wires in the prefabbed harness 2ft or so to reach the driver's side doors.

I also do want to do a trunk release for the hatch, and I'll put the button for it inside the glovebox.

For hatchbacks there are two options: hatch release or hatch unlock/lock. The second is the better option using a single channel lock controller and after-market actuators. This would address my main concern that all "5" doors get locked when you hit the button; it's just too easy to forget to relock the hatch each time it is opened. The disadvantage is that you still have to pull the handle to open the hatch.

Hatch release could be done with the OEM actuator bits and an alarm or other controller with a second trunk/hatch channel.

[petrified.rabbit]

now you got me wondering how many door poppers it would take to make the hatch go up on its own.

(and how fast as too fast is not safe either).

[daug1502]

now you got me wondering how many door poppers it would take to make the hatch go up on its own.

(and how fast as too fast is not safe either).

that's what I think of when you mention dangerous, for some reason.

[MoneyMike]

the g8 is the first car you have seen with a hatch release button? or just the hatch release button in the glove box?

First time seeing the release button inside the glovebox (as well as the lock/unlock, window, and side mirror controls being in the center). I reall liked that idea on the G8, as the glove box had a lock as well. So, your trunk and it's contents would be safe.

I considered mounting it there to make use of the power connections for the OEM remote box. The circuit for this option was present at the fuse box, but could not find the connector/wires under the console. Could have been there taped off under the carpet or elsewhere, I just didn't have time to search for it. The other demotivator was that I would have had to extend 7 wires in the prefabbed harness 2ft or so to reach the driver's side doors.


For hatchbacks there are two options: hatch release or hatch unlock/lock. The second is the better option using a single channel lock controller and after-market actuators. This would address my main concern that all "5" doors get locked when you hit the button; it's just too easy to forget to relock the hatch each time it is opened. The disadvantage is that you still have to pull the handle to open the hatch.

Hatch release could be done with the OEM actuator bits and an alarm or other controller with a second trunk/hatch channel.

If it's pre-wired for it, then I wouldn't think that the wires would be over on the center console. I was going into this idea without even knowing that it's already got the wiring in the doors. I know that my dad could help me if I decide to do it that way, or if I even do it at all.

As for the trunk, screw it. I'll just get it to lock/unlock with the remote and master switch if I go through with the power locks. There was only one spot that I really thought that the release button would've been good at, but then I'd have had to carve out part of the glove box door, just so I wouldn't pop open the hatch every time I close the glove box.