•  
    Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
    Results 11 to 20 of 31

    Thread: 2005 Aveo - Crank, no start

    1. #11
      What's wrong with my car? Daveo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Location
      Massachusetts
      Posts
      11
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Been through it and yes, it is expensive. The head on my 2004 is now the freshest part of the engine. If you're in the Southeast Massachusetts area and still broken, you can have the entire car for less than what that valve job costs. Just took it off the road in December. I'm new to the forum, if there's a market place I'll post it with some pics.



    2. #12
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      205
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts
      Quote Originally Posted by gearhead1 View Post
      The crank doesnt sound like your normal gallop, it sounds more like a whirring.

      A few weeks back I hit a large pot hole but the car was still running. Didnt seem like it damaged the car. About a week after the car died and I had it towed to my house. Tried starting it again, it seemed like it was trying to start but wasnt turning over. I pulled out the spark plugs and the wells were drenched in oil, as was the spark plug. So I cleaned out the spark plug wells, changed the spark plugs and valve cover gasket, removed the ignition coil pack and looked for damage. Tried to start it and it seems to be trying to start but its making more of a whirring noise now. Im thinking that either the starter isnt engaging (perhaps the solenoid), the battery isnt delivering enough voltage to the starter, maybe something with the timing or something else?

      Any help, suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.
      Is the engine crankshaft rotating when you try to start the engine ?

      Wyr
      God bless

    3. #13
      What's wrong with my car?
      Join Date
      Oct 2019
      Location
      North Carolina
      Posts
      2
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      I've done a few of these. 04-08 are easy compared to the 09 and up. Complete valve/gasket kits are on ebay for under $100. Yes, all 16 valves and gaskets for about 88.00. Take the head off, clean it. Replace the valves. I use a bit of grinding compound and lap the valves by hand before installing (another 9.00). Add another 50 or so for a timing belt/water pump kit and you'll be good to go.

      You will have a few bent valves but replace them all. Pistons might have a tiny scratch but should be ok.

      88.00 valves and gasket
      14.00 antifreeze and distilled water
      9.00 valve lapping compound and short piece of rubber hose (for the twisting)
      20.00 valve spring/keeper removal/installation tool (ebay)
      40.00 timing/water pump kit
      10.00 water pump wrench (ebay) for adjusting belt tension (really makes the job easy)

      Add a weekend or two and a case of beer and she'll be back on the road.

      60.00 or so to have the head resurfaced/cleaned at NAPA machine shop

    4. #14
      What's wrong with my car?
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      Ottawa
      Posts
      6
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Before pulling the head or timing belt, remove the starter, while itís off, inspect mounts, nose cone, flywheel and bell housing At least remove and bench test it, but thatís not always a sure thing. Just replace the starter. Theyíre cheap. Depending on your state, some you pull scrap yards may be open.

    5. #15
      What's wrong with my car? Daveo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Location
      Massachusetts
      Posts
      11
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Quote Originally Posted by judge View Post
      I've done a few of these. 04-08 are easy compared to the 09 and up. Complete valve/gasket kits are on ebay for under $100. Yes, all 16 valves and gaskets for about 88.00. Take the head off, clean it. Replace the valves. I use a bit of grinding compound and lap the valves by hand before installing (another 9.00). Add another 50 or so for a timing belt/water pump kit and you'll be good to go.

      You will have a few bent valves but replace them all. Pistons might have a tiny scratch but should be ok.

      88.00 valves and gasket
      14.00 antifreeze and distilled water
      9.00 valve lapping compound and short piece of rubber hose (for the twisting)
      20.00 valve spring/keeper removal/installation tool (ebay)
      40.00 timing/water pump kit
      10.00 water pump wrench (ebay) for adjusting belt tension (really makes the job easy)

      Add a weekend or two and a case of beer and she'll be back on the road.

      60.00 or so to have the head resurfaced/cleaned at NAPA machine shop
      Great advice, at the time I hadn't even considered doing it myself....I carried the head in to a local auto machine shop and was floored when I picked it up and owed the man $1K+, about twice what he quoted me when I dropped it off. While crying at him he knocked $100 off his labor but I still left a trail of tears back to the house. And I bought the timing kit, gaskets etc. from RockAuto myself. The kicker: within a year they started leaking and I had to have it done again. A bigger name, farther away shop took longer, charged less and now years later it still runs great. BTW: I'd read the head bolts are torque-to-yield (single use), you didn't mention them, do you reuse them (it's so tempting!) or just forget to mention them?

    6. #16
      2004 1.6 Auto Rust Free
      Join Date
      Jun 2019
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      120
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
      Do NOT reuse the bolts! They are torque to yield. This means that you stretch them when correctly installing them. ONE USE ONLY.

    7. #17
      What's wrong with my car? Daveo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Location
      Massachusetts
      Posts
      11
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      Do NOT reuse the bolts! They are torque to yield. This means that you stretch them when correctly installing them. ONE USE ONLY.
      Agreed. As I said, tempted, but always bought new. Thanks for confirming.

    8. #18
      What's wrong with my car?
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Location
      canada
      Posts
      14
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Finally got around to doing some work on it. Its hard with a 10 month old baby at home. I removed the lower timing cover, the engine mount, the harmonic balancer (finally got the crank bolt lose), and the broken timing belt. I removed one of the tensioners or idler pullers (cant remember which is which, I removed the one on the right), but the one on the left cant be removed unless I remove the cam gears.

      Next step is removing the cam gears, inner timing covers, water pump, and the remaining idler or tensioner pulley. Now how do I removed the cam gears without breaking anything or causing more damage? Im trying to set myself up for the best possible solution when it comes time to put it all back together. Also, with regards to the timing marks on the cam gears, does it matter right now when taking off the gears where everything is lined up?
      Last edited by gearhead1; 05-18-2020 at 11:01 PM.

    9. #19
      What's wrong with my car?
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Location
      canada
      Posts
      14
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Quote Originally Posted by WyrTwister View Post
      Is the engine crankshaft rotating when you try to start the engine ?

      Wyr
      God bless
      Yes, the crank shaft was rotating when I was diagnosing. I used it to remove the crank bolt with a breaker bar. So the crankshaft is definitely rotating.

    10. #20
      What's wrong with my car?
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Location
      canada
      Posts
      14
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      Quote Originally Posted by Kazoo View Post
      Before pulling the head or timing belt, remove the starter, while it’s off, inspect mounts, nose cone, flywheel and bell housing At least remove and bench test it, but that’s not always a sure thing. Just replace the starter. They’re cheap. Depending on your state, some you pull scrap yards may be open.
      Thats a good idea, but wouldnt it be easier to remove the starter with the head off?





    Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

    Similar Threads

    1. Car starts, dies, the cant start for 30 secs. Start, die, start, die.
      By theCurrahee in forum Troubleshooting and Maintenance
      Replies: 7
      Last Post: 02-18-2020, 11:48 PM
    2. Replies: 2
      Last Post: 10-30-2018, 02:13 AM
    3. NEED HELP!!! No start and no crank on 2009 Chevrolet Aveo
      By Nukamod in forum Engine & Drivetrain
      Replies: 13
      Last Post: 09-17-2016, 09:05 PM
    4. 2004 Aveo: No Codes, will not crank/start Aug 2014
      By T2Aveo in forum Troubleshooting and Maintenance
      Replies: 3
      Last Post: 08-03-2014, 10:08 PM
    5. Replaced serpantine tensioner, crank weirdly but won't start
      By Patrick.Beauchemin in forum Troubleshooting and Maintenance
      Replies: 3
      Last Post: 06-08-2013, 03:51 AM

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •