Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS: My new detailed write-up

[hustler]

I also did not remove my cam gears to replace the water pump.

My parts list was a Gates timing belt kit (belt, misc pulleys, tensioner, water pump), fresh coolant for the most part except for what was left in there, thermostat, passenger side motor mount (the one that came out was a little separated), serpentine belt, misc pulleys to go with that, and an air filter.

I figured that for the minor cost of the other parts, some peace of mind was worth it.

Oh, and get a 41mm water pump wrench because I didn't bother and ended having to make one out of some 3/16" flat stock. It would have been much easier to just get the right tool to tension the water pump.

[snowmobilejon5000]

Thank you immensely: my parts list, GATES Part # TCKWP335 4 Components (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler, 1 Water Pump) PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump and gasket from rockauto.com, as far as air filter I don't have to worry, I have a K@N lifetime with CAI. Thursday when my parts come in I am going to change everything. I borrowed some waterpump pliers from a neighbor. Again thank you for the help with changing this mythical being.

[hustler]

No problem - the write up here was a good one to print out and follow.

If you have any questionable looking hoses, while the coolant is drained would be a great time to change them.

[joeblow55]

Lot's of good info here...enough that I feel pretty comfortable doing this job myself. I did have a few questions though.
1) with all the adjusting, tightening, loosening, etc of the water pump, it makes me wonder how to keep it from creating a leaky seal or bad gasket ?
2) someone asked where is the best place to drain the coolant, and how much to drain to prevent a mess when removing the old water pump ?
3)If the water pump tensions the timing belt, what the heck does the idler pully do,...(assuming there is one) and if there is, is there also a tensioner on the idler ?
4)Assuming I should "do it all at once" given that the mileage is 98,000...what is missing off this list ?
Timing belt, idler pulley, water pump, water pump tensioner, serpentine belt
5) last but not least, someone replied above somewhere that after reassembly, and rotating the engine 2 complete revolutions to distribute the tension on the belt, that the marks will probably not line up ? Why, and wouldn't that be a real problem ? I don't get it...

thanks for the replies

[hustler]

Lot's of good info here...enough that I feel pretty comfortable doing this job myself. I did have a few questions though.
1) with all the adjusting, tightening, loosening, etc of the water pump, it makes me wonder how to keep it from creating a leaky seal or bad gasket ?

I worried about that too, but it's not a paper gasket like other water pumps. It's an o-ring, so turning the pump won't bunch it up or rip it.

2) someone asked where is the best place to drain the coolant, and how much to drain to prevent a mess when removing the old water pump ?

I used two drain pans and just pulled the lower hose off. Most of the coolant came out (go figure). When I got the plastic timing belt cover off, I loosened the water pump bolts and a bunch more coolant came out, and I put he pan back under.

3)If the water pump tensions the timing belt, what the heck does the idler pully do,...(assuming there is one) and if there is, is there also a tensioner on the idler ?

It idles. It's not a tensioner, it just sits there, redirecting the belt.

4)Assuming I should "do it all at once" given that the mileage is 98,000...what is missing off this list ?
Timing belt, idler pulley, water pump, water pump tensioner, serpentine belt

Sounds good to me. For some reason I remember there being an idler pulley in the serpentine belt system somewhere, and that one was pretty creaky too (IIRC). I think it was like $12 or something.

5) last but not least, someone replied above somewhere that after reassembly, and rotating the engine 2 complete revolutions to distribute the tension on the belt, that the marks will probably not line up ? Why, and wouldn't that be a real problem ? I don't get it...

I did four complete revolutions just to be 400% sure. My marks lined up perfectly. I think they mean that when you first run it through an engine revolution, the triangles won't align, but then you do a second revolution, the belt tension gets evenly distributed, and then you have a winner*.

thanks for the replies

* That's not at all how mine went, I tried zip ties to hold the cam gears in phase. Good theory, poor execution, and I was one notch out upon the double-turnover. It was a learning process - give yourself lots of time and Scotch whiskey and it will go just fine.

[snowmobilejon5000]

Mine is changed. Just got done. Took 11 hours. Used a "mighty grip" rubber strap and a rope tied around to the motor mount on the other side of the engine to hold the cam gears or zip ties. Take the plugs out. It takes seconds and is way easier to line up everything. Plus you get to check your plugs. I have an air impact for the harmonic balancer and I am glad I had it because it was really on there. White paint marker to mark the old and new belt. Overall job cost me 110 dollars and now I am going to take the difference than going to the dealer and go to the bar. Car runs like before. It is a little louder because this belt is a gator back belt and not the daewoo piece of *&^*^ that was on it. I am going to drive it easy for the first 1000 miles and then take it to my favorite place to redline it through a couple gears. It is more fun to drive a slowish car fast then drive a fast car slow! Thanks to all on this forum for making it easier to work on this indestructible car. Next timing belt change will be at 100000 miles.

Jon-out to drive

[db2x4]

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[20gauge]

I just did mine. The instructions were great! IT did take me 12 1/2 hours, but I also changed the valve cover gasket, plugs and wires at the same time.

Issues I did find, use an impact wrench. I just couldn't get the bolt loose any other way. Also, I had to rotate my engine 2 sets, (2 turns is one set), in order to get every thing matching. The first set left me at 1/2 a tooth off. Lastly, I just found it easier to loosen 2 screws and remove the top right screw on the water pump. It made the tensioning much easier. Yes! Get the darn tool the is just not enough room to use regular wrenches or maybe my hands are too big. Either way, get the tool!

One question for all. I also replaced my serpentine belt, but either a pully or tensioner is beginning to squeak. What are the part numbers for each? I would like to replace them before any issues arise.

Thanks for the help!

[petrified.rabbit]

12 1/2 hours? 12? like half a day?

[07aveo5]

Thank you VERY much for this guide. I am completely comfortable around cars but its always nice to have a guide to refer to when you need.