Sub and Amp

[mikedudley17]

well i guess now we wait and see what he does. like you said, whatever way he goes, he should be satisfied

[aveosummit]

Well I have to say that with your choices
the mtx amp
and the Rockford Fosgate Sub or and the Pioneer Sub

The amp only works at a 4ohm load (not 2 ohm stable)
25amp * 14.4V = 360W
360W *.67 (max efficiency rating on a class A/B amp) = 241.2 W max

unless you can get 16V of continuous power
you would get 25Amp * 16 = 400W
400W * .67 (max efficiency rating on a class A/B amp) = 268 W max

Rockford 10" Car Subwoofer (P210D4)
nominal 250W max 500W

Pioneer 10" Car Subwoofer (TS-W257D4)
nominal 350W max 1000W

Given that the aveo will not push higher then 14.4V of continuous power with no AC running or lights. (a high output alternator 16.5v max)

The best bang for your buck would be the Rockford Fosgate if you want to get the most out of the listed subwoofer/amps.

I personally do not know what rms either can handle with music, spec test probably done with pink noise, but based on specs you will see better results with the Rockford Fosgate but the pioneer would have more head room (room to perform).

But any system can be made to sound good if your sub enclosure is built to spec. I wish you luck in whichever you decide to go.

If you looking to create a system on a budget drop me a line. -advice is free $$$


---my $0.02
Jl Audio overpriced mid-level quality
Rockford Fosgate decent lower mid-level
Alpine mid-level

Elite:
RE Audio
Morel
Genesis
Rainbow

High Mid-Level/Low Elite Level
Bravox Audio
Image Dynamics
Focal
Genesis
US Amps
CDT Audio


Mid-Mid level
Alpine
Jl Audio
Memphis
Oxygen Audio
OZ Audio
Mobile Spec
Planet Audio

Low Mid Level
Boss Audio
Pioneer
MTX
Lanzar

Low Level
Pyle ( some decent products)
Pyramid
SSL ( some decent products)
Nitro
Legacy


This list by no means complete just a quick listing of where I would rate some companies on there products, remember everyone is entitled to there own opinion, this is mine. I personally only discuss the brands that I have personally used. I sell and install car audio and have experienced many brands and have seen alot of hype (paying for the name brand) and alot of sleepers (products people don't use alot but perform very well). I hope this help.

[kirbycope]

I guess I'm in the low mid level

I don't see MA Audio or Infinity on that list!

[Tyson]

Ok, well after looking through a lot of your posts, I'd just like to start off with thanks for the info.

Yeah, my price range can vary, as I'm willing to go up to $500 for the sub and amp (not including the box, I'll most likely build it).

That RF sub was on sale for 70, but I missed it, so it looks like that's out of the question since I could probably get something better for it's price now.

What is C3 offering when it comes to sub/amp packages? Also, what payment methods are you accepting? As I may be able to get paypal or I even heard of this new thing where you can do transfers from your bank account (which would be perfect for me). But yeah, please let me know, as I've checked your site and it looks like you know what your doing quite well.

As for the 14 volts thing, I've seen people hook up a second battery incase of the primary battery failing. Is this an easy task? Or would it just be easier to stick with something not powerful enough to drain the battery quick.

[aveosummit]

Amp Sub package prices vary depending on your purpose ie.spl, sq, and the grey area in between.

As far as the multi-battery setup goes, it is a relatively easy task to setup, but you have to keep in mind that when you add another battery you add more resistance on your charging system.

The benefit of two or more batteries really comes to play if you listen to alot of your music when you car is in not on. Otherwise that put more distress on your alternator.

---
Side note mono blocks (class D) are really recommended when it comes to subwoofers because they can really perform well up to 80% efficiency. You can use a 2-, 4- channel amp (Class A/B) to power a sub but it is optimal to use a Class D monoblock.

[Tyson]

Amp Sub package prices vary depending on your purpose ie.spl, sq, and the grey area in between.

As far as the multi-battery setup goes, it is a relatively easy task to setup, but you have to keep in mind that when you add another battery you add more resistance on your charging system.

The benefit of two or more batteries really comes to play if you listen to alot of your music when you car is in not on. Otherwise that put more distress on your alternator.

---
Side note mono blocks (class D) are really recommended when it comes to subwoofers because they can really perform well up to 80% efficiency. You can use a 2-, 4- channel amp (Class A/B) to power a sub but it is optimal to use a Class D monoblock.

I probably will be listening to lots of music when the car isn't on, but I suppose I'll just keep some jumper cables with me because it's probably cheaper, easier, and I'd rather not put strain on other parts of the car if it isn't needed.

Mind if we take this to PMs? (talk about pricing on your products)
Or do you have MSN? That'd be easier too.

[Kinkyllama]

I wouldn't worry about extra batterys or anything, I'm running around 4k watts MAX and I've left the car off with the stereo blasting for up to an hour with some walmart battery.

Also with my upgrades grounds, yellow top battery, and ud pulley (hurts things a bit) I get no dimming with things all the way turned up, which is louder than anyone can stand in the car.

[Tyson]

Ok, that settles my mind on that topic then

[kirbycope]

Kinkyllama What do you mean your UD Pulley "hurts things a bit?"

[mikedudley17]

Kinkyllama What do you mean your UD Pulley "hurts things a bit?"

wondering same thing.