SO I finally have my first issue that is not a quick fix.. (fixed, starter relay)

[xintersecty]

Its either something really stupid, or the ECU. The mechanic will probably join the forums to find a fix.

If the mechanic joins the forum....that had me rolling on the floor.

Just curious did you check a signal output at the ECU with a volt-meter. I know it's sometime hard to read the lines and may require a piercing probe. What about at the relays? Sometimes you can see a voltage fluctuation. Last year on my boat, I had a fuse block short out causing an overload on a couple of coils, did you check for that kind of situation? After all the dealer is going to ask the right question and figure out on your answer.

[petrified.rabbit]

There was no signal to the relays. I didn't want to start piercing lines since the are like 10" from the ECU to the relay/fuse box. And I pulled the fuse block apart to check for burns and loose wires.


Should I feel better that they haven't figured it out yet? end of day 2 at the dealership.

[petrified.rabbit]

End of day 3..

[petrified.rabbit]

Spoke too soon, got a phone call and ran out to pick it up.

They insist all they did was put in a new starter relay and it started right up.

The "safe" mode running issue where I coaxed it to work, the air filter was sucked into the engine. Luckily it didn't make it past the throttle body. I didn't even get around to looking into that issue because it would NOT crank over. So I guess I should be happy that was something stupid.

Still not sure how I could have checked, swapped, jumped relays, and still have a no crank condition and all they did was plug another in and it starts right up. But I guess I'll be happy it was a cheap repair.

[bgoldstuff]

All in All.........How much???????

[petrified.rabbit]

The dealership, $280.

new ecu $80
new battery $75
New lock cylinder $120
Ignition switch (bought 2 one came with cylinder, have 2 correct & 1 earlier spares now) $60


So, $615? total.

[bgoldstuff]

Glad to hear your up and running, so then if I understand correctly...... it was your ignition switch after all and not your ecu?

[avguy]

Glad it's back on the road again. I'm still not getting what caused the first problem (loss of power but still running). Did the old battery test ok? I'm always left with an uneasy feeling when a problem isn't fully explained, but I hope this one has been taken care of with all the stuff you did.

[06T200]

It took them 3 days just to swap a relay? Im betting they had a process of elimination to lead up to that relay. What logic does one use to nail a complex problem like that with so many variables? Some GM crystal ball? lol I think they had to FIND the problem, and that probably took longer than swapping the bad part. Glad you are rolling again either way! With all the new parts it should be solid for a long time.

[petrified.rabbit]

I am not sure what/how the issue was solved. But the poor running issue started because the air filter element (i have a cold air intake) broke and was sucked into the throttle body lodging it open.

The no start was probably a combination of things I did trying to restart the car on the side of the road 1. killing the battery cranking it over 2. blowing the relay 3. i pulled a few fuses to reset the ecu thought I could make it the rest of the way to work if the safe mode was erased.

The ignition switch was the recommendation of iterate searches. it should have only been $40, but when my students removed it, they did not put the key in ACC so the snapped off the keyed lobe. Hence the new lock cylinder housing.

I'm dumbfounded honestly. I still think they must have automatically reset the computer or something during the diagnosis work or something?