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    Thread: Pre-Turbo Modifications

    1. #21
      Still love my daily driver Nemasys's Avatar
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      The only way to run Megasquirt properly is to convert the ignition to Ford's EDIS-4 system.

      You can find EDIS-4 kits on ebay and other various sites.

      It involves fitting a toothed 36-1 wheel to your crank pully then mounting a vr sensor that will pick up the signal and send it to the EDIS ignition module, the module then sends a signal to megasquirt that is returned to the module which then fires the EDIS coilpacks.

      Most kits come with a toothed wheel, the vr sensor, ignition module, coilpack and wires (you need to convert your spark plug wires to connect to the ford coilpack because its a special connector)

      I haven't researched anything else since i was already familiar with megasquirt, but im sure there are other kinds of ecu's out there.


      > 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
      - Fully built, GT35R, 500+ whp

      > 2004 Hatchback 2.0L Turbocharged [RETIRED]
      - T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Compressor
      - HKS SSQV, OBX Wastegate
      - FMIC with 2.5" piping
      - Tuned with Megasquirt II v3.57

    2. #22
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      Before doing the CAI and the O2 sensors, that would've been very intimidating... but I'm getting more and more comfortable working on the car (since January ; ) and with a little more research, and practice (like changing the spark plugs myself next time...) I can probably manage something like that! It's gonna be a year at least before I put on turbo, but all this stuff is good to know! I will be applying it starting immediately.
      Last edited by Weirdo_Joe; 08-20-2011 at 06:52 AM.

    3. #23
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      what nemasys says is 100% correct, there are other parts you need to include when going to stand alone.

      he is also right about about "kits" find a kit with parts suited to your needs and use that as a basis.. it wiill get you the most functionality out of a "single" purchase.


    4. #24
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      That's super helpful! Thanks rabbit! I have been looking a bit at the megasquirt website... I am prepared to do learn how to do the sparkplug wires/ingition/coilpack to make ANY thing like this work. Here's my questions: Mega squirt would be KINDA like ECU tuning that you could change, right? So is it something I could install and hook up before going turbo (maybe get some benefit then) and change the settings/reprogram after installing a turbo setup? Also, I looked at an online shop that sells the NEO (was thinking of using that, upgrading that after turbo) but it says it's not compatible with my 2008 LS model. It's universal, right? Someone on this site was running it... but I know from researching the intake work that the IAT sensor and MAF sensors are a bit different on different years/models (Neo uses MAF sensor data for adjustments mainly, it looks like.) If I could just plug one of those "piggyback" type AFCs in for starters (pre-turbo), and upgrade later to Megasquirt, that'd be GREAT!!!
      Last edited by Weirdo_Joe; 08-31-2011 at 04:49 AM.

    5. #25
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      you can run the megasquirt in piggyback for too, but i would just go full one standalone.

      the standalone is a car ecu, you uses all your sensors and eliminates all the factory ecu components, essentially.

      so it kinds of takes out that "specialty" computer in the car and replaced it with another computer that you can easily access.. kind of like replacing a bunch of single items (walkman, calculator, phone, mp3, psp) with a smart phone that does it all...


    6. #26
      Administrator Daox's Avatar
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      I'd avoid the AFC controller. It only controls fuel delivery, not ignition timing. Not having control of ignition timing can get you into trouble with pinging, preiginition, and at worst put a rod through the block or break piston lands, etc.

    7. #27
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nemasys View Post
      Build your kit keeping in mind that you ultimately want that amount of torque and no more. You could upgrade to the 2.0L gearbox that will take around 200 lbs of torque at the wheels, its a bit stronger and its a direct bolt on to the 1.6L
      Really? I've been wondering that....what about the axles and shift linkages?

    8. #28
      Still love my daily driver Nemasys's Avatar
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      Transmission will give out way before the axles and anything else.
      > 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
      - Fully built, GT35R, 500+ whp

      > 2004 Hatchback 2.0L Turbocharged [RETIRED]
      - T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Compressor
      - HKS SSQV, OBX Wastegate
      - FMIC with 2.5" piping
      - Tuned with Megasquirt II v3.57

    9. #29
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nemasys View Post
      Transmission will give out way before the axles and anything else.
      I meant in regards to the stock hubs? Or would you have to convert to the cobalt FE5 suspension? or at least the hubs? in which case I know theres a grand prix hub (cant remember what year) thats a direct fit in the cobalt without having such an oddball bolt pattern

    10. #30
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Daox View Post
      I'd avoid the AFC controller. It only controls fuel delivery, not ignition timing. Not having control of ignition timing can get you into trouble with pinging, preiginition, and at worst put a rod through the block or break piston lands, etc.
      That clenches it!!! I will be researching mega squirt, and learn how to use it/install it... The turbo attached to Xiaogary's Turbo manifold prototype was a T3 (I think) commonly found on a Lancer, which runs under .5 psi boost (if I'm reading the stats correctly) ... something like that should be more than enough... So, if I stay under .5 psi boost, I can probably go without engine/transmission work... does that sound about right?





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