1st time for this project

[avguy]

... he pressed the bearing out towards the transaxle....

Wow - I don't understand that one at all. There's an inner lip cast into the knuckle, about half the width of the outer bearing race, that serves as a bearing stop. When the bearing is pressed back into the knuckle, it stops moving when it hits this lip, resulting in automatically correct repositioning in the knuckle. So it's a mystery to me how he could have moved the outer race past that lip. Anyway, pressing the bearing out away from the transaxle worked for me, and will for you as well.

...I believe I'm going to remove the knuckle on mine....

I didn't want to say 'my way or the highway' earlier, but since you've decided that on your own, I'll say now that there's no doubt in my mind that it's the best way to go

...Again, thanks for having your ear on this matter....

Glad to be able to help, and it's nice to have a DIY conversation instead of never seeing even a single reply from the OP (which happens far more often than not). And like with most of this stuff, I'm just paying forward what I learned by reading what other folks had already done.

[djmarch]

Wow - I don't understand that one at all. There's an inner lip cast into the knuckle, about half the width of the outer bearing race, that serves as a bearing stop. When the bearing is pressed back into the knuckle, it stops moving when it hits this lip, resulting in automatically correct repositioning in the knuckle. So it's a mystery to me how he could have moved the outer race past that lip. Anyway, pressing the bearing out away from the transaxle worked for me, and will for you as well.

I didn't want to say 'my way or the highway' earlier, but since you've decided that on your own, I'll say now that there's no doubt in my mind that it's the best way to go

Glad to be able to help, and it's nice to have a DIY conversation instead of never seeing even a single reply from the OP (which happens far more often than not). And like with most of this stuff, I'm just paying forward what I learned by reading what other folks had already done.

In this video avguy, the knuckle has a snap ring on both sides to retain the bearing. I believe that's how my 04 is set up.

[avguy]

Well, that's new information for me, and it's interesting that there are 2 different knuckle designs - one with a snap ring on the transaxle side and the other with a built-in lip in that location. And a quick look at Rockauto confirms that there are multiple OEM knuckle part numbers listed in the cross reference. Seems like they decided to get rid of one of the snap rings after originally using 2 of them. That certainly makes sense to me because there's no need for 2 rings.

The knuckle having the lip provides enough clearance for the right sized adapter to catch enough of the outer race to press out the bearing. You'll need to find out if the snap ring also allows this, or if that ring needs to be removed in order be able to contact enough of the outer race. If the rings on yours aren't rusted in place, it will become a non issue and both of the rings will be easily removed. Fingers crossed on that!

[djmarch]

Well, that's new information for me, and it's interesting that there are 2 different knuckle designs - one with a snap ring on the transaxle side and the other with a built-in lip in that location. And a quick look at Rockauto confirms that there are multiple OEM knuckle part numbers listed in the cross reference. Seems like they decided to get rid of one of the snap rings after originally using 2 of them. That certainly makes sense to me because there's no need for 2 rings.

The knuckle having the lip provides enough clearance for the right sized adapter to catch enough of the outer race to press out the bearing. You'll need to find out if the snap ring also allows this, or if that ring needs to be removed in order be able to contact enough of the outer race. If the rings on yours aren't rusted in place, it will become a non issue and both of the rings will be easily removed. Fingers crossed on that!

One more thing avguy. I have a 1/2 breaker bar and a pipe. I wish I had a 3/4. Did you have any problems using 1/2 ? Or did you use a 3/4 ?

[avguy]

For the axle caulking nut, a 1/2" bar with a long pipe all the way over it worked fine for me. And you'll also need to have a beefy torque wrench capable of 221 ft lbs for the reinstall of that nut.

[djmarch]

For the axle caulking nut, a 1/2" bar with a long pipe all the way over it worked fine for me. And you'll also need to have a beefy torque wrench capable of 221 ft lbs for the reinstall of that nut.

10/4 there good buddy

[RBRx]

Just putting this out there I tried to do a bearing job and after pounding with a slide hammer getting the hub off for hours and the auto stores around here didn't have the tools I needed to rent I broke down and took the knuckle to a auto shop that does bearings.

35 bux to press out the old and in with the new, and after looking at the cost of the tools needed to buy which at best would only use once for the life of the vehicle it just wasn't worth it.

[djmarch]

Just putting this out there I tried to do a bearing job and after pounding with a slide hammer getting the hub off for hours and the auto stores around here didn't have the tools I needed to rent I broke down and took the knuckle to a auto shop that does bearings.

35 bux to press out the old and in with the new, and after looking at the cost of the tools needed to buy which at best would only use once for the life of the vehicle it just wasn't worth it.

Been there, done that...Had a slide hammer as well, and the hub would not come out. Finally removed the knuckle completely, and with my front bearing removal kit I found on Ebay on the cheap, made the job much easier. For the other side I removed the knuckle, (only 4 nuts), at the start, and it cut my time in half.

[TurboElk]

Paying someone to press out bearings and races makes a lot of sense sometimes, depending upon what they charge... I had to do U-joints in my 3/4 ton diesel pickup, and the driveline shop near my house charges $15 a U-joint to press out and press in... $30 bucks for both was money well spent.