it is unlikely that they created a running issue like this, accidentally.
if you are looking for damage, that has your running issues and the lift in common, check the fuel/vapor lines and such under the car to see if they have been pinched or crushed, etc. even the underside of the gas tank, etc.
Update:
Same story. Stalled once coming home. Re-started with only a slightly longer than normal crank. Stopped at a store and five minutes later started and ran normal. Drove home less than a mile a way. Was going to leave running to see if it would stall during the time it took to check the mail. Never made it out of the car. Stalled, re-started almost immediately. Ran out to look under the hood. Stalled again before I could get hood up. With hood up, tried to re-start. Cranks hard/fast but no start. Went out 30 minutes later crank hard/fast but still no start.
What about the oil pressure sending unit? Will a faulty sending unit shut off the engine like what is happening w/o throwing a code or the CEL? And yes, the oil level and type is fine. 5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum w/AC delco filter with less than 5000 miles since change. Dipstick up to top and normal color/smell.
I ask about the sending unit because when I was cranking, the oil light was flickering. It did, however, go out after my second extended cranking session which to me indicates oil pressure and a working sending unit. I only ask because I never noticed the light flicker like that. Then again, I never had to crank it like that either.
I'll attack it hard tomorrow and post anything I find.
Many thanks to the two participants trying to help.
Is it possible for a dealership mechanic to disable the CEL and ability to show codes?
any decent sop can read the codes and shut off the light.
the oil pressure switch could cause that, but it wouldnt likely kick the engine back on in that manner.
and iirc the oil pressure would/should cause a cel, but that particular oil fuel cut sensor i do not think does.
UPDATE 12/12/11: Tow truck picked up the car from my driveway and took it to my dealer.
I spent much of yesterday in 20F weather going over the car bumper to bumper with the tools and know-how I possess. I found absolutely nothing out of the ordinary.
I'll let you know what they find.
Still no CEL or codes.
hey dude i had the exact same thing happen to my old car.
it turned on fine and when it was warm it would stall.
in the morning fine, after work fine, but only because it had time to cool off.
It felt so weak and would stall if i didn't have my foot on the gas.
places kept telling me that it was something with the coolant and that it would cost 300-400$
but i took it to my father in law, and he fixed it in 3 seconds.
Turns out the idle control was off, and it's just this thing you have to screw in to fix, because over time it becomes lose.
so he just tightened it with a wrench and fixed my idle, and the car felt like new!
saved me from a scam too.
I haven't checked on the aveo to see where it is the idle control is at, but it's the thing that pumps gas into your engine when you push the gas pedal. so you could troubleshoot that way.
so there is a high chance it could be just that. so i'd try to locate that part and see if it's not lose.
a 2008 aveo wont have an idle screw. its DBW. and unless there was verification of some sort, adjusting the throttle (idle) on a fuel injected car should not necessarily be done with just turning a screw. Not saying that wasnt the issue for yours, but that shouldn't be a common issue.
UPDATE 12/12/11: Dealer mechanic went out to where tow truck driver dropped it off. Turned key and started on the first try. Took it out for a 30 minute test drive. Could not duplicate problem.
I crawled all over that car for 8 hours and could find no problems. Car would crank and not start. The only thing that changed was the car was dragged on to the flatbed. Could there be a check ball in the fuel tank that prevents spills in a rollover? What could have changed to make the car drive like normal?
its either the relay, or the fuel pump/filter. I dont know prices of each, but i would swap the relay first (same as something else in there most likely ac maybe?), if the problem doesnt go away then change the fuel filter, and if that doesnt fix it, report back.
my brothers car needed a fuel relay, he could drive for 20-30 minutes at time, then stall. sit for __ period of time (increased slowly over time) and it would restart.
UPDATE: 12/13/11: PROBLEM FIXED!!
Traded it in on a brand new off-the-lot 2011 Honda CR-V 4WD.
3 year/36K no cost warranty.
Runs like a champ.
Thank you to all who tried to help, especially petrified.rabbit. Keep up the good work.
I now have a set of low, low mileage Michelin XIce-I2's mounted on steel wheels for a low, low price if anyone is interested!
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