Automatic transmission fluid flush

Hi All,

Great forum, have been doing loads of reading since obtaining a 2008 Tk Barina (aka Chevy Aveo) - car has only done 20,300km

So far i've:
- replaced air filter
- replaced spark plugs
- flushed brake fluid
- flushed coolant
- changed oil/filter
- upgraded stereo to one with bluetooth

Next on my list is transmission fluid, as whilst the mileage is low, the fluid is a brown colour.

From what I've read so far, about half the fluid is Accessible from the pan via the drain plug. So I figure that if I drain and replace the fluid, do some driving, then repeat, then I should be able to replace around 75% of the fluid relatively cheaply/easily.

I can buy a replacement filter and pan gasket here in Australia for around $30 so I figure I might as well do that too.

Looking at using a Castro multivehicle fluid -http://productsforyou.castrol.com.au/product/Castrol-Transmax-Multivehicle/35

Dextron 3 fluid is around $34 for four litres, the above fluid is $49 - not significantly more so I'd rather stick with the recommended fluid type.

Can anyone confirm the volume of fluid I should get when draining via the oil pan so I can on firm how much fluid I'll need for 2x drain/fill cycles per above?

I also assume the only way of refilling fluid is via the trans Dip stick?

Thanks all,

Paul.

Type T-IV is the ATF required for the Aveo's unless your owners manual says otherwise. If I remember correctly it was something like a little over 2 quarts when i replaced the fluid from the pan. Get yourself 3 (1 Litre) bottles which is more than enough to do a single drain & fill and then you can get the rest of what you need on the next fill. I was surprised to find out that the Toyota dealership sells T-IV for the same cost as the Mobil 3309 so I will go that route next time.

BTW yes the tranny dipstick is the way to fill the fluid. You can refer to this link http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/6ofo...-6l-going.html for an Aveo automatic transmission fluid and filter replacement.

Thanks. Also found a link to a service manual: http://manuals.zedt.eu/daewoo/Manual...0TRANSAXLE.pdf

This suggests:
Transaxle Fluid (dry fill) 5.77L (6.1 qts)
Transaxle Fluid (drain and refill) 2.1L (2.2 qts)

So a drain and fill actually only changes about a third of the fluid.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by psmedley

Next on my list is transmission fluid, as whilst the mileage is low, the fluid is a brown colour.

---

That's not a good sign. But your plan to do the changes in stages will probably rectify that. :)

Quote:

---

From what I've read so far, about half the fluid is Accessible from the pan via the drain plug. So I figure that if I drain and replace the fluid, do some driving, then repeat, then I should be able to replace around 75% of the fluid relatively cheaply/easily.

---

About 1/3 of the fluid will be removed. You are correct in that doing partial drain and fill in stages will eventually change all the fluid. I'd recommend doing it initially, then in three months, then again in six month intervals, depending on the resulting color of the fluid.

You might find this thread interesting: click here.

Quote:

---

Looking at using a Castro multivehicle fluid -http://productsforyou.castrol.com.au/product/Castrol-Transmax-Multivehicle/35 Can anyone confirm the volume of fluid I should get when draining via the oil pan so I can on firm how much fluid I'll need for 2x drain/fill cycles per above?

---

IMHO the best value for your money is this product: Valvoline.com > Products > MaxLife > Automatic Transmission Fluid MaxLife > MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF Buy it by the gallon size. It's T-IV, which is the recommended fluid.

Quote:

---

I also assume the only way of refilling fluid is via the trans Dip stick?

---

That's correct. You will need a small funnel and patience in pouring the fluid in slowly, so as not to slosh it out of the fill tube.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thymeclock

IMHO the best value for your money is this product: Valvoline.com > Products > MaxLife > Automatic Transmission Fluid MaxLife > MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF Buy it by the gallon size. It's T-IV, which is the recommended fluid.

---

Seems that http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-...-synthetic-atf is the equivalent product 'down under'

Nice that it comes in a 5L container, which should be enough for 2 drain/fill cycles.

Cheers,

Paul.

Thanks for the link!

Thanks for the tips.

FYI
I just did a full flush on both our 06 Aveos, used the fluid supply line to the cooler to flush 8 quarts through the trans, and flushed the cooler.

Here is a short video of the process (on a different model) to get a full demo of the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY

Attached is a photo showing the location of the supply line on our Aveos, just connect about 4 feet of (I used clear) tubing, and you are in business. Use the same cautions in the video and don't run the trans dry, and power down if you are learning and see too much air in the line, or not sure how much is in the case. Over all this is a fairly easy process, and saves a bit of time. Go steady and really helps to have a helper on the key so you can just concentrate on feeding fresh fluid.

To make note I used the same maxlife synthetic as suggested and both cars shift great. Great stuff for the money IMO.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 06T200

Use the same cautions in the video and don't run the trans dry, and power down if you are learning and see too much air in the line, or not sure how much is in the case. Over all this is a fairly easy process, and saves a bit of time. Go steady and really helps to have a helper on the key so you can just concentrate on feeding fresh fluid.

---

I watched the video. In it, the crap that was shown to be on the drain plug indicates that there would be much more of the same remaining in the pan. It's always good to change the fluid, no matter how it's done. But IMHO, it's foolish not to drop the pan and clean out all the crud that's in there, because that's still in the system - and the new fluid will circulate it. So this clever video is hardly a font of wisdom about automatic transmission maintenance.

This method might be quicker than doing the passive transfusion method I recommended. But not doing a pan drop and filter check makes it incomplete. Also it does entail risk, as you described in your cautions above.

Oh I agree, I had already dropped the pans and new filters went in with the oil changes. In the spirit of the thread title, I just shared the flush method I used, not that this negates a need for changing the filter. I had one with black fluid so a full flush was needed even after cleaning the pan.

Hey all..some backstory:

Decided to do a drain and fill on an '07 Aveo... the threads on the drain plug ended up stripping :sad:...
So, a 10 minute job evolved into hours since I had to drop the pan and muscle the bolt out. Then I had to chase the threads on the pan and find a temporary plug. I ended up with a M10-1.5 hex bolt, which is leaking because it has no taper and it apparently cant grip the gasket. Also, it appears that the pan gasket is leaking since I did not replace it.

I'm waiting for a replacement drain plug Dorman 090-078 (ordered from NAPA# 7041049 for $2.49). It's not specified for Aveo, but the specs seem to be a match and it appears to come with the plug gasket as well.
I'm considering replacing the pan gasket. The gasket kit Power Torque FK395 also comes with the transmission filter.

If I decide to use a sealant on the pan gasket, what type should I use?

How easy is it to replace the transmission filter? Does it involve removal of any other components, or is it readily accessible after dropping the pan?

Any tips, answers, and suggestions are appreciated...thank you.

javeo, the filter is uber easy to change with the pan off, 2 or 3 bolts and it's off. For a gasket, in the absence of any real gasket RTV would be a good choice. Just makes separating the pan a bit more challenging without a gasket, but it shouldn't leak if done right. Personally if I need to chase threads or repair a stripped hole, best to pull the pan off and do it on the bench if you can, to save getting metal bits in the trans. Much easier as well.

Hi, thanks for the quick reply.

Yes, the kit Im looking to order has a real gasket..just wasnt sure if I should put sealant on the actual gasket or just install it as is.

And yes, I ended up pulling off the pan before chasing the threads so I was able to get the metal bits. Also cleaned the magnets inside the pan..

Thanks again

You should be good to go, I just put them on dry. no leaks yet. Other members on the site here turned me onto Valvoline synthetic ATF (the one for Toyota/type IV) and both cars are still running and shifting flawless since changing the fluid out. Good stuff!

Im assuming youre referring to Valvoline MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF ?
From what I gather, their FAQ seems to infer that I dont need to flush the whole system to replace it with Valvo since it's compatible with the current ATF (type IV)? Or is it recommended to replace all the ATF with the new one (Valvo)?

Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by javeo

Im assuming youre referring to Valvoline MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF ?
From what I gather, their FAQ seems to infer that I dont need to flush the whole system to replace it with Valvo since it's compatible with the current ATF (type IV)? Or is it recommended to replace all the ATF with the new one (Valvo)?

Thanks

---

It's entirely compatible. You wouldn't be able to change all the fluid anyway, as some of it is in the torque converter.

The Valvo Max is expensive, though. Eventually I plan to replenish with Dexron III as it is much cheaper. The difference is that the !V is a partial synthetic fluid and the previous type III is not.

Yea I think I read one of your other posts regarding DIII, since it's Aisin..good to know.

Thanks all for the replies.

Just wanted to update..

I replaced the transmission filter and pan gasket. Then refilled with GM T-IV fluid.
On the gasket, I used Permatex gasket sealant (not sure if that was a good idea since it was more like a cement).
Anyhow, the transmission is now not shifting as smooth as before.. particularly in the lower gears. Im not sure whats causing the problem, but Im considering dropping the pan again and making sure the new filter is not clogged. Then I was planning to refill the 2 or so quarts using Valvoline Maxlife, since the GM fluid is outrageously expensive.

Any feedback is welcome..thanks.

So it feels like a firmer shift, or like it is slipping? We noticed something similar with my orange LS when I did a filter change as you. What was most noticeable was idling in a parking lot the car had a very slight surge, and felt like the trans was slipping. This prompted me to actually 'flush' all the fluid, if for anything because it was rather DARK even after a refill, and I wanted to rule out some funky friction coefficient of the old fluid mixed with the new. After the flush the trans has felt nice and smooth with no sign of slippage or idle surging. YMMV

Hi, yes it feels firmer..like it grabs or jerks a bit..which it didnt do before.
(note: The fluid was dark after changing out the first 2 quarts with the GM fluid...so far have changed out 4 quarts using GM)

So perhaps I'll just exchange 4 quarts using Maxlife, instead of just the 2 quarts in the pan. Not sure if I want to drop the pan again to check the filter.

Just took it for a drive again..I noticed a clunk sound when downshifting to lower gears...not sure what to make of it.

PS. I checked the fluid and it looks clean so might hold off for a few days, before exchanging it with Maxlife, to see what happens..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by javeo

Just took it for a drive again..I noticed a clunk sound when downshifting to lower gears...not sure what to make of it.

PS. I checked the fluid and it looks clean so might hold off for a few days, before exchanging it with Maxlife, to see what happens..

---

As you mentioned, when you bought it it only had the equivalent of 13,000 miles on it. The fluid should not be brown with such low mileage. It sounds like bad news. Either it was subject to heat degradation, and/or the previous owner beat the crap out of driving it.

I wouldn't bother to check the filter, as you probably won't find anything. All you can do is keep changing the fluid and hope for the best.