I was a little confused when you are talking about getting the drum with the sealed bearing. After some research I realize now that some of the Aveos in 05 and earlier have a drum/bearing assembly. Luckily the 05 we have the drum just slides off after you take off some screws. The bearing hub stays in place.
I ended up using the tap to push the crud out of the first few threads. I ran the proper bolt through as a test and then sent the inner tie rod in. It went in and snugged up well. I put red locktite on it. It should work out well.
Thanks!
Wow they changed the design of the drum brakes within 1 year of production. Good to know that now. Now I wonder if the Daewoo Kalos uses the old style bearings which is from 2003 and older.
Personally I like the bearing hub that is bolted to the axle as a sealed unit. But did your brake friction material pretty much peeled off the metal shoe itself?
Good to hear you got the inner tierod shaft installed!
This is exactly what the 2004 one did that I fixed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGAXEFFvu7g the other side I was able to peel off the material from the shoe it could have locked up at any time.
Also fair warning. When was the timing belt last replaced on this car? It uses the same design as the 2004 and people recommend replacing it at 50,000 miles or you will bend valves on the engine since the plastic pulleys break and throws off the timing belt. You can buy the kit for $70 which comes with belt and two pulley's and 3 oil seals and water pump. But you need to buy a 41mm crows foot wrench to set the tension.
The next weak point is the plastic thermostat housing. They break and leak coolant. Usually when that happens the cylinder head warps and blows a head gasket. If yours has aluminum housing someone has replaced it already.
I just did the timing belt (again) last week. I had a mechanic buddy do the timing belt about 5 months ago and it started to fray out of nowhere. Must have gotten a defective one. Luckily it started making a noise and I got into it before it fully snapped. When I first started the car after completing the job it had a very loud tapping noise, so I thought the valves were toast. After letting it sit several days I fired it up and it was quiet again, so it turned out to be a lifter instead.
I also replaced the thermostat housing yesterday with the metal one. I also noticed her transmission cooler lines were nearly rusted away. I ordered replacements off Amazon. When I went to take them off they literally snapped apart. Got em just in time!
I placed an order for the rear shoes, drums, and kit. I'll hammer that out next week since you say they tend to disintegrate. Then she will have all new brakes.
My kit didn't come with the oil seals. I'm guessing you're talking about the Cam and Crank shaft seals? They weren't leaking (knock on wood).
Yes I was. The 2004 did not leak anything and it has about 130k on it now. Hows is her shocks and struts? I know my friends 2004 needed alignment and his rear shocks were totally shot at 120k. The front struts were replaced as a precaution since the upper strut mounts were loose. You can jack up the wheel and move the assembly pretty easy.
They did not cost too much to get the shocks on ebay. Just needed a spring compressor tool and impact wrench to make a quick job of it.
Okay so when you did your inner tie rods, did you realize that one of them from the factory has a breather hole in the threads and the other doesn't? The ones I got from Moog didn't have the breather hole at all and I think I'm getting bubbles in my power steering system now... The bellows boots have no where to breathe...
I reused the old dust boots on the rack. I did not notice anything like that. I want you to top off the power steering fluid. Then start the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and hold it for 3 seconds. Then turn to the right all the way and hold it for 3 seconds. Do that 4 to 5 times and this will bleed the system.
The way this system is designed the fluid is rushing back to the reservoir with good pressure. It will swirl the fluid pretty fast and could cause air bubbles.
If you want you can take a pick or a nail and put a small hole in the dust boots to allow the air to escape while turning. If you think that is where the air is coming from. I would put the hole on the bottom side so that water will not enter the boot. I would take a paper clip and get it red hot and poke it through and that would be enough.
I know that some cars like on older fords they had a air pressure relief tube so that when one dust boot is compressed the air from it will be pushed on the expanding boot on the other side.
Here's some pictures to explain what I am talking about.
You can see that the parts are NOT the same, like all of the manufacturers state, Auto7 on RockAuto has it right. On the drivers side the air in the boot funnels through the rack and pinion gear somehow, but the passenger side it flows through the rod.
I noticed that Moog has updated their part and the newer updates do not have the holes, whereas the old revision does.
As far as I know there is no way for air to be compressed through the rack like that. It would not breathe in that hole where it goes to nothing inside the threaded ends of the rack itself. Did you still get air bubbles when you bled the system?
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