Domelight dimness/Car not starting

[Geo]

So I've been having this problem for a while now where my domelight dims when the car is off. Now, the car will not start at all, so I used my jumpstart to get it going. It runs for a while and when I turn the car off and try to start it again it tries to kick over but does not. The chime sounds like it's on its last life and I am baffled as to what it could be. I just replaced the battery 3 months ago, so I was thinking maybe it's the alternator? Also, when ol' blueberry was running, the clock would dim and reset to 1:00 when I'd open the door.

Any thoughts?

[thankful_ragamuffin]

I assume that the battery light is NOT illuminated. That being the case, I would think that you have a parasitic draw on the battery. Some electrical device is on when the car is off either by short circuit or mistake or the diodes in the alternator are burnt allowing the battery to drain back. The alternator is charging when the car is running because the computers have enough juice to run the car. The battery may need to be changed because of all the charge/discharge cycles the draw has caused. Good luck finding the draw.

[RicochetRandy]

I do wonder if there's any corrosion at the battery poles, or on the wires themselves. I've noticed my dome light dims when the car is off as well, always assumed it did that as sort of a battery saver. I remember it did that straight from factory.

[petrified.rabbit]

iirc there is a fuse in the fuse box that is the memory circuit for the clock, i think it also powers a few other things.

when the car does not start, is it just slow cranking? I have experienced some cars not starting if the batter drops below 12v on cranking, if your new battery is not the correct cca, then you might need a better one. And i mean not start as in at 11.99 v on the meter the computer would shut off and cut fuel, even though the engine would crank perfectly fine until the battery dropped to around 10-10.5 volts.

[Geo]

iirc there is a fuse in the fuse box that is the memory circuit for the clock, i think it also powers a few other things.

when the car does not start, is it just slow cranking? I have experienced some cars not starting if the batter drops below 12v on cranking, if your new battery is not the correct cca, then you might need a better one. And i mean not start as in at 11.99 v on the meter the computer would shut off and cut fuel, even though the engine would crank perfectly fine until the battery dropped to around 10-10.5 volts.

It's as if the battery is not in the car. no chimes, have to manually open the door, does nothing when i try to crank it. I also replaced that fuse a while back. I just want my baby to run =]

[Geo]

Most of you folks know I've been having a problem with my Aveo and have yet to find a solution to it. When jumping the battery again, I noticed when I turned on my headlights, my radio kicks off for a few seconds and cuts back on. It also resets and the dome light flickers. I left the car running for a while and switched the lights on and off and eventually the problem ceased to exist, until I turned the car off and alas, not enough juice to kick back on.

Also, I noticed that my aftermarket radio was not wired according to the diagram listed with it. I'm not sure if this would offset anything, but I heard that something could cause the alternator to fail over extended periods of time.

Any ideas?

[Daox]

Sounds like your alternator isn't charging your battery. If you have a voltmeter you can test it. The battery should be around 12.7V while the car is off. When the car is running it should be around 13.5-14.5V.

If your alternator is charging, its like ragamuffin said and you have something drawing power while your car is off. You need to find it and stop it.

I also merged your two threads because this is the same problem.

[Geo]

Sounds like your alternator isn't charging your battery. If you have a voltmeter you can test it. The battery should be around 12.7V while the car is off. When the car is running it should be around 13.5-14.5V.

If your alternator is charging, its like ragamuffin said and you have something drawing power while your car is off. You need to find it and stop it.

I also merged your two threads because this is the same problem.

Thanks Doax! I was wondering how to merge the two. I'll have a look at it and keep you guys informed

[Geo]

I could not find my voltmeter, but I disconnected my Sub and Amp (which BTW never worked, so I'm now assuming it was my error) and started the car, but now, I can't shift out of park. I tested and the break lights worked.

[Thymeclock]

All the advice given is accurate. Here's what I would do if I were you: put a battery charger on the battery overnight to bring it up to a full charge. (If you don't have a battery charger, buy one - it's worth having.)

After the battery is charged, if the dome light is bright and the engine cranks rapidly, the car should start easily. If it doesn't, it's a defective battery. Once the car starts, drive it around for a while, preferably with the headlights on. If after an hour or two of running the radio starts going out and things like the lights start growing dim, it's a bad alternator.

If nothing bad has occurred after those tests and the battery goes dead or becomes weak overnight, it's because something is drawing power (like a door left ajar or some accessory that is drawing current while the car is not running).