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    Thread: Coolant temperature sensor

    1. #1
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Coolant temperature sensor

      Hey there, I was told to come here as no one on the Suzuki forums seems to know what my problem is. Maybe someone here can help me. I have a 2004 swift + 1.6 5- speed, and had it on the scanner and it said that my temperature control sensor was bad, so I got it replaced but nothing changed. The car starts fine when it's cold but if you shut it off and try to start it right away, it cranks many times before actually starting and when it does start it spits and sputters for a few seconds before smoothing out due to the sensor reading -40 so the car pumps more fuel and makes it hard to start. My temperature gauge reads normal until you shut the car off, then when you restart the temperature gauge stays down on cold even when the car is already warmed up, but after about 2 to 3 minutes the gauge comes up to normal. I have good heat and it never over heats.
      Is there something that I am overlooking? Should I try another sensor?

      Please help, I'm desperate as I need my car for work.

      Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

      Cory




    2. #2
      Almost time to do my timing belt xintersecty's Avatar
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      After replacing your temp sensor, do you still have a code? Also did you buy your own code scanner or just go to a parts store? You can get an ODBII to bluetooth scanner cheap and it will work with your smart phone.

      The 2004 Aveo/Swift is before the electronic butterfly valve, so it's a mechanical system. Once you start, the vacuum is holding the butterfly valve to fast idle. In your case there might be something wrong on the second start. So check for vacuum leaks.
      Please do not power off, firmware update pending.....

    3. #3
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Yes still a code after replacing the sensor. I took the car to my mechanic and was standing right there when he put it on the scanner. He had the car running and it was showing normal on the temperature gauge and then he shut it off and turned the key to the on position but the temperature gauge stayed down on cold, he plugged in the scanner and it read that the coolant temp sensor was reading -40 degrees which is obviously wrong. Restart the car and let it run for a few minutes and then the temp gauge comes back up to normal after 2-3 minutes.

    4. #4
      Almost time to do my timing belt xintersecty's Avatar
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      I am wondering if you got a bad part. It happens and he should have swapped right there and then. if he spliced in a new sensor and used the old harness there can be something wrong with the splice causing the -40 reading.
      Please do not power off, firmware update pending.....

    5. #5
      What's wrong with my car?
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      No I'm pretty sure he just unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one. How can I check for vacuum leaks myself? It's too expensive for me to take it to the garage at $80 an hour.

    6. #6
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      I just called my mechanic and he said it was a straight swap, he didn't have to splice, just unplug one and plug in the new. I am getting another sensor today and going to put it in tomorrow and hopefully it was just a dud part. But if you have anymore info which might help me, I would really appreciate it. Thanks again man.

    7. #7
      Almost time to do my timing belt xintersecty's Avatar
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      I found this video to be helpful on identifying vacuum leaks:

      Please do not power off, firmware update pending.....

    8. #8
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Well i dont know if this will help but i had a similiar issue like this and there was a vaccum leak amd it toom me three months to find. One of the elbow connectors was cracked and after it heatd up became plyable alowing a vaccum leak. Instead of buying the hard plastic vaccuum line a bought the plyable inexpensive rubber vaccum line which i was able to connect right into the inputs not having to use the elbows. It is very inexpensive at autozone like a dollar and some change a foot. I bought like six feet of it for like under ten dollars. Took of all the hard plastic line and elbows and pluggef right into the connections. Whether its the egr or the fuel regulator the line fits right on with a little spit. Lol. I love the soft plyable line better and it fits very snug just get the rigjt size. I changed all my vacuum lines with this stuff under ten dollars and elimated the hard plastic with all the elbows and connectors and it solved my problem. Hope this helps. Only took me three months to find. Lol.

    9. #9
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Thanks for the reply AvMan39, did your car run good or was it spitting and sputtering? Mine runs great until I shut it off and try to start it again, then it spits and sputters for about 2 to 3 minutes until the temp gauge starts to move again, then all is good.

    10. #10
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      If the code scanner is reading the sensor, and the sensor is obviously wrong, you either have a bad sensor, or bad signal.






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