Power door locks malfunctioning

[Comporder1]

I first tried replacing the door lock relay, but I managed to fix my daughter's car by replacing the driver door latch assembly. Since it also serves as the only interior lock/unlock switch, I was able to troubleshoot to that component. You can test this is your problem by simply unplugging the 4 wire connector from the assembly (everything will work without this connected except the ability to lock all the doors using the driver door lock). I tried contact cleaner in the sensor portion of the assembly. It helped some, but ultimately needed to be replaced. I found the best price on it from ebay (be sure to check that it is compatible with your model car). Everything is working perfectly now. After further inspection of the latch assembly, I found that the lock actuator portion could in-fact be replaced separately from the latch itself. It would take a little motivation to get them separated and put back together. I found the actuator on rockauto for a good price. It would save $40 going this route.

I hope this helps others out there!

[HJB]

Comporder1
This helps a lot. Many thanks.

[bgreeneee1]

Echoing Comporder1. Replaced the driver door latch assembly and it fixed it. I started with the trunk actuator before I saw this post but the driver door latch assembly was the fix.

[MeekMark]

Ok, have a related issue with electric door locks; the right front door on my 2009 Aveo5 won't lock/unlock with the remote; the door makes "the gear is stripped out" noise. Found the part/parts I need on rockauto, but I am clueless about how to take the door panel off without causing damage. I have a set of upholstery tools for cars but unfortunately it didn't come with a chart showing which tools are for what. I think I know which one to use, but need some hints on where to start prying.

[MeekMark]

A helpful clerk at AutoZone suggested searching YouTube. I did a face-palm; I have searched and found a lot of car-related tutorials there before. Found this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXPB8Bt9zIY among others. My search results: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+panel+removal

[jingles]

Many thanks for this post. This put me on the right track to fix mine. Easy fix in the end. Dismantled the two slide switch mechs on lock body and found green corrosion (copper) on one of the switch contacts. Cleaned out the tunnel with cotton tip, put a smidgeon of vaseline on contact, reassembled and checked continuity on multi-meter (buzzer was best to hear any intermittent breaks). Have attached a wiring schematic of internals of switches and . From what I found with meter the heavier gauge white plastic slide(one of three) didn't appear to be a switch.(couldn't prise out). Make some probe adaptors to lock onto pins to get a good contact while testing your cleaned switch contacts. Note the lock body is from a right hand driveShould also add that my corroded dodgy contact was the snib button UP contact (between pins 2&3) so locks went haywire when snib button was in UP position.

[ibshortie]

I first tried replacing the door lock relay, but I managed to fix my daughter's car by replacing the driver door latch assembly. Since it also serves as the only interior lock/unlock switch, I was able to troubleshoot to that component. You can test this is your problem by simply unplugging the 4 wire connector from the assembly (everything will work without this connected except the ability to lock all the doors using the driver door lock). I tried contact cleaner in the sensor portion of the assembly. It helped some, but ultimately needed to be replaced. I found the best price on it from ebay (be sure to check that it is compatible with your model car). Everything is working perfectly now. After further inspection of the latch assembly, I found that the lock actuator portion could in-fact be replaced separately from the latch itself. It would take a little motivation to get them separated and put back together. I found the actuator on rockauto for a good price. It would save $40 going this route.

I hope this helps others out there!

Parts ordered, thank you. I hope it works too. 2008 Aveo, the locks repeatedly went up and down until the drivers door closed. I tried the fuse pull thing and after doing so, while the locks quit going up and down, I could no longer get my key out of the car and the transmission was locked in park. Put the fuse back in and I could now remove the key and put the car in drive, but the locks started cycling again. Again I hope this works, if not I will just give unplugging the connector a shot.