Royal Purple advice?

Hi, all, newbie here. My fiances' 2005 Aveo is reaching it's oil change interval. She's got 43,000 miles on it and has been using conventional oil since the day she's bought it. Well she does alot of highway mileage and puts about 20,000 miles on her car every year. I would like to switch her car over to Royal Purple 5W-30. Is there anything that can go wrong by switching over? Anything I need to do or look for before and after I switch over? I'm going to be using the K&N Oil filter. These cars take four quarts of 5w-30, correct? What's the worst that could happen? I'd like to change her oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Thanks for the help guys! :)

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Originally Posted by JMSA540

Hi, all, newbie here. My fiances' 2005 Aveo is reaching it's oil change interval. She's got 43,000 miles on it and has been using conventional oil since the day she's bought it. Well she does alot of highway mileage and puts about 20,000 miles on her car every year. I would like to switch her car over to Royal Purple 5W-30. Is there anything that can go wrong by switching over? Anything I need to do or look for before and after I switch over? I'm going to be using the K&N Oil filter. These cars take four quarts of 5w-30, correct? What's the worst that could happen? I'd like to change her oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Thanks for the help guys! :)

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You will be fine using it, just make sure to get the old conventional oil flushed out

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Originally Posted by JMSA540

Hi, all, newbie here. My fiances' 2005 Aveo is reaching it's oil change interval. She's got 43,000 miles on it and has been using conventional oil since the day she's bought it. Well she does alot of highway mileage and puts about 20,000 miles on her car every year. I would like to switch her car over to Royal Purple 5W-30. Is there anything that can go wrong by switching over? Anything I need to do or look for before and after I switch over? I'm going to be using the K&N Oil filter. These cars take four quarts of 5w-30, correct? What's the worst that could happen? I'd like to change her oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Thanks for the help guys! :)

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Royal Purple is a fine oil, however, price and availability sometimes are an issue. Any good synthetic (M1, Pennzoil Platinum, etc) will make it to your desired interval. I'd run the RP or any other synthetic to 7500 and do an oil analysis to see how much further you could go. Personally, if you have been using conventional with no issues since day one I would stick with exactly what you have been doing.

see with me its not the oil im worried about because I use 3 qrts of cheap brand oil and 1 thing of lucas oil additive and i can go for 4000+ miles and the oil is still all there and looks good, but i worry about the oil filter more

i thought someone said it wasnt a good idea to switch over to synthetics after you have been using conventional oil for a while, and the same if you were using synthetics. i thought it was something about the seals in your motor getting "conditioned" to the type of lubricant being used.

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Originally Posted by NYChevoo

i thought someone said it wasnt a good idea to switch over to synthetics after you have been using conventional oil for a while, and the same if you were using synthetics. i thought it was something about the seals in your motor getting "conditioned" to the type of lubricant being used.

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yea i heard that too.. what i read about it is this.... Conventional oil sludges up over time and as your car runs your seals start to wear and sludge gets in the seals an gaskets and keeps them from leaking... but if you switch to synthetic after using conventional for thousands of miles you will start to develop leaks out of thin air... Reason? cause syntetic clean out sludge which is good BUT it cleans out the sludge that is sealing those worn out seals and gaskets... and since synthetic will not sludge and is thinnner in consistency then conventional it will make its way out of your engine.... Also, synthetic can cause blowby in worn engines due to the fact it is thinner your rings are nowhere near the clearance they start at and the thinner oil will work its way past the oil rings and out your tailpipe..... synthetic is really good but in some cases like older cars with worn out parts it's too good.... To me in my opinion if you want synthetic start out when your cars engine is only got a few miles don't wait till it gets up in age.... if your car is up in age best to stick with a quality convention or hybrid at most. Also, if you got a older engine and you are doing your oil changes at 7,500 it is much better to do it at 3,000 to increase longevity of your engine.... keep cleaner oil running more often in that engine then running dirty oil for longer periods of time... but thats my opinion good luck

FWIW, Royal Purple and Mobil 1 are not synthetic. They are synthetic blends. Asmoil and Redline are full synthetics.

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Originally Posted by aveodude

FWIW, Royal Purple and Mobil 1 are not synthetic. They are synthetic blends. Asmoil and Redline are full synthetics.

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r u sure? i was at the auto shop yesterday and looked at royal purple and it was listed as full synthetic....... there was no blend available

I was about to say, I have always used mobil1 .. and its because its Full synthetic.

Sorry I meant to say Castrol Syntec. Mobil 1 only sells as a Full Synthetic on the bottle as well and it is not. Here is some background on that.

Mobil sued Castrol for calling Syntec full synthetic when it was still derived from fossil fuels. Castrol won the lawsuit and the judge declared the name "synthetic" a marketing word. Since then, Mobil has switched to a group III base stock.
The reason this is significant is because now companies can sell oil as a full synthetic when it is still made from fossil fuels. In Europe, when something says full synthetic, it actually it. Mobil 1 over there is not the same as over here.

Redline, Motul, and Asmoil are Group IV and/or Group V. I could not find anything on Royal purple.

this link talks about the different Groups
http://www.genuine-synthetics.com/benef ... tures.html



To the original poster.

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For the longest time, I had this to say about mixing mineral and synthetic oils:

* If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first.
* If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
* Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.

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http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

I think Royal Purple is great if you're taking the Aveo to the track. Otherwise, it's overkill, especially if you've been using conventional all along. As the other commentators suggested, I would have her engine flushed, and then gradually wean the engine onto a synthetic. I would start using Mobil products. Start with using 3.5 quarts of Mobil conventional mixed with one of Mobil 1, change the oil every 4,000 miles, then at the next change, 2.5 qts conventional with 2 quarts of Mobil 1, and you get the idea. Despite what the naysayers may squawk about, the Mobil conventional and Mobil 1 synthetic will mix; they start out as the same molecular base as far as the additive and detergent packages are concerned. Once you reach using a full crankcase of Mobil 1, then bump the change interval up to 7,500 or 10,000 miles. If you're going to do the 10K interval, make sure you use ONLY Mobil 1 Extended Protection. Make sure you use only Mobil products, or if you must (clearing throat, Harrumph) Castrol GTX and Syntec. Don't mix the cheap supermarket or auto store stuff with the synthetic, or use a lesser synthetic (Quaker State, Pennzoil, Trash-o-la, etc.)