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Ha! Cute kitty, like that name. This one is Tigger the kitty, and he likes this orange car more for some reason lol
I used just simple green mostly and shot the whole under hood with a 2500 psi 'cone tip' sprayer thing and it looks like new mostly. Then used brake cleaner after blow drying all the wiring and connectors, to get everything dry. Won't see battery power for another week or so , so I should be ok getting it wet. thanks, I really like the color too, so does the cat lol
The black blob is the plastic intake, that I cleaned much the same way, but wound up cleaning it on the bench and cleaned the injectors while I was at it. I like stuff clean.
Waiting on new pistons and rings, and doing the rod bearings as well, turning into a bigger job, but it will be like new when done. Should run good, head is all lapped and ready to go back on, just doing the short block stuff, then more progress!
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JDM - I did clean the casting flash and matched the manifolds, in the hopes of 1 or 2 mpg better but not holding my breath. Did so much other work why not lol
New guides went in like butter, hit the seats and called it good. for what it's worth, both cams appear to be the same grind, same 8.51mm lift, and same markings, but I stamped them I and E accordingly, just in case. If anybody needs 8 good intakes I have spares. Wound up needing 10 lifters due to collapsed plunger springs, can't figure out how to rebuild them so I just ordered new ones.
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@Gramble,
Stay away from any lye products, use only non caustic soaps, like engine spray, or simple green, I used generic engine cleaner, and did not seem to harm anything. The sprayer tip used can make all the difference, and uses hardly any water. Lots of effort to dry everything, that takes longer than cleaning it lol
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Gotcha. No lye, no caustic chemicals.
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If you get the harness really wet (like I did) a shop vac is handy to help remove the water, just stick the connectors in the vac hose end and they will get pretty dry - then use a water displacing oil like wd-40 (I use something called crc 2-26) to get anything missed, then just let air dry a day or two with the battery out of the loop. Compressed air is ok to help dry, just be careful not to 'push' any water into the PDP switch/connector if you have an auto, I just disconnected everything and made sure it was dry. This thing was a caked turd of oil leaks from a bad valve cover gasket for years so it needed it bad!
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Update
Yesterday I finished pulling the pistons. As usual Tigger supervised from the chair. I found no 'major' damage or wear even. Didn't feel like grinding the shrapnel out, so I opted for new slugs.
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Guides in
Pic during head work, this was the only carnage to the head casting. Fortunately inside the sealing bead.
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Good looking cat! Reminds me of my friend Anthonys cat named Ziggy! Anyway thanks for all the pics! Very interesting so far!
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So in the GM shop manual it mentions NOT to reuse the main cap bolts, (as well as head bolts) and does not mention the rod bolts in the warning. Then a page or two down it says to "install new rod bolts", so it is confusing if they mean the rod bolts. Well being one that errors on the side of caution, I went to find a new set of rod bolts, and no such critter exists, either from GM, nor the aftermarket. So what's the deal? Has anyone sourced new replacement bolts? If so where from? Or is it safe to reuse the rod bolts? GM has new rods, but no bolts.
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Nevermind, found them!
Rod cap bolt = 94500779
Main cap bolt = 94500822
Source: Engine Cylinder Head/Cylinder Block Components for 2006 Chevrolet Aveo
