Project 'orange roadkill' (bent valves rebuild & more)

Finally made time to post some pics of the orange 06 'bent valve' project, in case anyone is interested in valve carnage lol

Recently bought this 06 as a well used fixer, textbook skipped timing belt. Anyway I am bringing this one back to road warrior status, here are some pics of the work in progress. If anyone cares, I can post updates as I get it back on the road. Hard to tell in the pics, but all the exhaust valves got hit and are bent, and took the guides with them.

I think I will pull the pistons and inspect for any damage, and throw a fresh set of rings on it. No sign whatsoever of any ring ridge, and cross hatch is still clear, not bad with nearly 240K on the clock. Feel free to lend any input, this is my first T200 shortblock, but it looks to be wearing very well.

PS: Sorry about the cat, not sure why he needed to jump up while I was taking this pic LOL My helper?

:cool: Cool, keep us posted

Finished a little deep cleaning under the hood with the head out of the way. Looks much better with 230K miles worth of grime washed away, I can see the engine and trans now lol Just waiting on parts now, should start going back together soon.

Couple more

I never knew that is where the alternator was.

Nice Cat! I just had to replace my valve cover gasket again! Keep up the good work and the pictures!

How in the world did you get that engine bay so clean?? Nice orange. I originally wanted one with the camel interior but was never able to find one. I had to settle for blue with pleather grey interior.

I would port and polish the head at least before I put the head on if I were you :)

Very Nice! Your cat looks like my Garfield. lol


-Andrew B.
:vtec:

Attachment 8489

Are these engines okay to paint? I say this because I'm swapping in a D-TEC II, but I want it to look nice when I open the hood.

Also, what chemicals and tools should i use to clean the engine bay and the engine itself.

What is this bit?
Attachment 8495

Ha! Cute kitty, like that name. This one is Tigger the kitty, and he likes this orange car more for some reason lol

I used just simple green mostly and shot the whole under hood with a 2500 psi 'cone tip' sprayer thing and it looks like new mostly. Then used brake cleaner after blow drying all the wiring and connectors, to get everything dry. Won't see battery power for another week or so , so I should be ok getting it wet. thanks, I really like the color too, so does the cat lol

The black blob is the plastic intake, that I cleaned much the same way, but wound up cleaning it on the bench and cleaned the injectors while I was at it. I like stuff clean.

Waiting on new pistons and rings, and doing the rod bearings as well, turning into a bigger job, but it will be like new when done. Should run good, head is all lapped and ready to go back on, just doing the short block stuff, then more progress!

JDM - I did clean the casting flash and matched the manifolds, in the hopes of 1 or 2 mpg better but not holding my breath. Did so much other work why not lol

New guides went in like butter, hit the seats and called it good. for what it's worth, both cams appear to be the same grind, same 8.51mm lift, and same markings, but I stamped them I and E accordingly, just in case. If anybody needs 8 good intakes I have spares. Wound up needing 10 lifters due to collapsed plunger springs, can't figure out how to rebuild them so I just ordered new ones.

@Gramble,
Stay away from any lye products, use only non caustic soaps, like engine spray, or simple green, I used generic engine cleaner, and did not seem to harm anything. The sprayer tip used can make all the difference, and uses hardly any water. Lots of effort to dry everything, that takes longer than cleaning it lol

Gotcha. No lye, no caustic chemicals.

If you get the harness really wet (like I did) a shop vac is handy to help remove the water, just stick the connectors in the vac hose end and they will get pretty dry - then use a water displacing oil like wd-40 (I use something called crc 2-26) to get anything missed, then just let air dry a day or two with the battery out of the loop. Compressed air is ok to help dry, just be careful not to 'push' any water into the PDP switch/connector if you have an auto, I just disconnected everything and made sure it was dry. This thing was a caked turd of oil leaks from a bad valve cover gasket for years so it needed it bad!

Yesterday I finished pulling the pistons. As usual Tigger supervised from the chair. I found no 'major' damage or wear even. Didn't feel like grinding the shrapnel out, so I opted for new slugs.

Pic during head work, this was the only carnage to the head casting. Fortunately inside the sealing bead.

Good looking cat! Reminds me of my friend Anthonys cat named Ziggy! Anyway thanks for all the pics! Very interesting so far!

So in the GM shop manual it mentions NOT to reuse the main cap bolts, (as well as head bolts) and does not mention the rod bolts in the warning. Then a page or two down it says to "install new rod bolts", so it is confusing if they mean the rod bolts. Well being one that errors on the side of caution, I went to find a new set of rod bolts, and no such critter exists, either from GM, nor the aftermarket. So what's the deal? Has anyone sourced new replacement bolts? If so where from? Or is it safe to reuse the rod bolts? GM has new rods, but no bolts.

Nevermind, found them!

Rod cap bolt = 94500779
Main cap bolt = 94500822

Source: Engine Cylinder Head/Cylinder Block Components for 2006 Chevrolet Aveo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 06T200

Yesterday I finished pulling the pistons. As usual Tigger supervised from the chair. I found no 'major' damage or wear even. Didn't feel like grinding the shrapnel out, so I opted for new slugs.

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Love the Tigger pictures. Keep those up! Now onto the car. How did you get to the pistons out of the block? Did you drop the oil pan and disconnect there? As far as I can see, you have not taken the engine out the car.

Thanks xintercecty, I figure this is one of the more boring projects at this stage - so the cat keeps it fresh lol

The pistons came out quite easy. I pulled the front exhaust pipe nuts and just moved the pipe out of my way, and pulled the oil pan, just 5 large 17mm bolts in the rear thick 'flange' part at the bottom, (had to yank the rear trans mount to get the rear bolt) then the 10mm bolts, and the two hidden bolts under the little rubber grommets. Then from there I just took my time and pulled the pistons one by one, stamping the rods as they came out, I wound up using a long (24") 1/4" extension and a rubber mallet to tap the rings out of the holes.

You are correct, so far this has only needed to be an 'in frame' job as I can see no reason to pull the main bearings, I am over doing it as it is now, as all damaged parts are now new, but it should run great when I get it wrapped up. Pistons should be here Tuesday, then hung on the rods by thurs, and hopefully get parts going back in this weekend.

I thought I would add, I found no successful way to test the lifters on the bench during the bleed process. Ones I thought were bad, were no different than brand new ones, which had the same variations in plunger stiffness/movement. Some are tight feeling, others bleed with ease. But all of them seems to be fine, so now I have about 12 spare ones. All springs had the same free height within a few thousandths, so they were all within spec and good to go.

Update: Pistons arrived from NC, so with any luck this rig should be rolling this weekend.

I found a really good article that pertains to this job, I thought I would share. This will explain why I am not deglazing the cylinders for new rings. This is an important step.

Careful with That Hone, Eugene!

First road test was a success! Had some lifter clatter on first fire up, even after priming the oil system for 30 seconds, but they quieted down as it reached normal temp with the RPM up around 2500, now quiet as our other 06. Pics to come.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 06T200

First road test was a success! Had some lifter clatter on first fire up, even after priming the oil system for 30 seconds, but they quieted down as it reached normal temp with the RPM up around 2500, now quiet as our other 06. Pics to come.

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Awesome! :)


-Andrew
:vtec:

Reassembly pics, valves before head install, then new pistons went in, rings, bearings, lifters, valves, new timing set, water pump, belt, hoses and anything else that looked funky was replaced with new parts. Runs great, happy with the result.

I thought it might need an idle relearn but so far it runs smooth and stable at idle.

Couple more

Next phase of the project will be new control arms up front with new ball joints and bushings to tighten up the front handling a bit. I heard a noisy ball joint so time for some new arms and an alignment. Motor is running like new, no leaks and no codes since charging up the battery and clearing the DTCs. Valve job- done!

Thanks to rockauto for keeping all the orders straight for this job!

After a long day wrenching on Aveos, - Tigger is exhausted, nap time. (as usual)

Awesome! Another Aveo is back from the dead to join the fleet! :)


-Andrew
:vtec:

Very nice work, and thanks for sharing the information and pictures. This forum doesn't get much of anything like this, and even fewer well-documented as you did. It's a welcome addition, and hats off to you for a job well done :thumbup:

What he said!!!! This forum is VERY barren lately. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^





-Andrew
:vtec:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndrewButler05

What he said!!!! This forum is VERY barren lately. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^





-Andrew
:vtec:

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I could spam some posts to liven up the place!

Things are hopping here, lots of little to-do's on this car, now I'm repainting the hood, fixing a broken spring in the shifter, pulled the DRLs, and fixing the turn signal, they don't cancel after a turn. So lots of tiny projects, more pics to come. I will try to document the arm/frontend refresh work, have some Dorman arms on the way.

Hopefully this thread can help others buying/inheriting 'well used' Aveos, that need a work over.

I posted another thread for the Shifter/console work that I am doing, over here: http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f84/c...-repair-16876/ in the interior section.

Some parts prices as of current for the short block parts:

P/N Description Price Qty. Cost
---------------------------------------------------------------
96389106 Piston set of 4 std. $12.44 4 $49.76
93740225 Piston Rings set std. $54.00 1 $54.00
96350355 Piston Pin $3.63 4 $14.52
94500779 Connecting Rod cap Bolt $1.03 8 $8.24


These were sourced from Flow Chevrolet in NC. aka gmpartsdirect.com

FYI for anyone needing to freshen up the bottom end. These prices are about par for aftermarket parts, and the quality seems pretty good.

Congratulations! I'm glad you got it back on the road!