Aveo 2.0L Turbocharged

Wow I havent posted here in AGES, when we moved to the new Aveo forums, I thought this one had died, but I guess someone managed to pick it up, looks nice now.

Onto the good stuff, those of you that are on the new forum already know this most likely.

I have a 2004 Hatchback with a swapped 2.0L engine from an Optra (known as the Suzuki Forenza in the States) Ive had the 2.0 for just over a year now, its a nice power gain over the underpowered 1.6L

Ive been plotting to turbocharge it since last autumn and I finally started to buy the parts in early April. I kept it a secret to myself just in case I couldnt undertake the project until I was sure it was going to happen, so many people spoke of turbos and never got around to even spend 10 buks on parts hence making everyone that wanted to see it dissapointed!!

I now have everything I need to start installing it and the work should begin this weekend (May 8th weekend)

I strongly suggest anyone thats interested in the project to go to the new Aveo forums (aveonetwork.com) and read my thread "Aveo 2.0L Turbo" in the Engine/Drivetrain section. You do not need to register to read the post.

Here is a direct link to my thread: http://www.aveonetwork.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=497

Im going to post some pictures real fast of the kit but if you want to see more, head over to my thread on aveonetwork.com

I will also update this thread from now on with new pictures and comments about the install and how it will run (basically copy and paste my posts) so people that dont go to the other forums often will be updated, but read whats on there 1st if you want the full story!

T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Turbocharger:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...bocharger1.jpg

Intercooler:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...20Kit/FMIC.jpg

Piping kit with silicone couplers and clamps:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ndCouplers.jpg

HKS SSQV Blow off Valve:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...it/HKSBOV1.jpg

OBX 38mm Wastegate:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Kit/OBXWG1.jpg

Megasquirt II Engine Management System:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...egasquirt1.jpg



More pics on my thread (http://www.aveonetwork.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=497), AEM Wideband, OBX Oil Catch Can, more pics of the turbocharger, blow off valve, wastegate, megasquirt. Pics of the downpipe, turbo oil feed kit.

Stay tuned, installation this weekend, lets see how it goes. All I am missing is my DSM 450cc injectors that are in transit right now.

Woo, looks like a fun project you got there! :)

What manifold do you plan on using? Also, what size are your intake pipes?

Also, I've been mulling over ideas for turboing the 1.6L here on aveoclub. I'd appreciate any input you have on the topic. Aveo turbo charging & part options

The stock manifold will be used with an adapter plate welded to it, it flows well and clearance shouldnt be an issue from the measurements I took, it should also give plenty of room for the oil return.

Charge piping is 2.5 inch.

have you noticed any negative effects in the handling since swapping the 2.0? is there a big weight difference?

Not really since the car is dropped 4 inches, the suspension is so hard it didnt make any difference.

On a stock suspension you might feel something, i'm not certain how much weight difference is between the 2 engines but it shouldnt be that much.

cool .. damn, 4 inches! :o

how much of a pain was it to swap in that 2.0 ?

A big one, since I basically had no idea what parts were interchangeable, I went with the flow but it was a costly one.

Turned out none of the 1.6's accessories fit the 2.0, including the flywheel, so I had to buy every accesory with the brackets and a flywheel, the only parts that were interchangeable were the clutch system and the transmission. Some parts I got at the scrapyard, but 1/2 of it I had to buy brand new at the dealer and you know how expensive that can be.

Was it worth it?

More like if I had been better prepared and informed it would have cost me way less, but for what it did cost me its not worth it. Im not displeased with the 2.0, in fact it made the car alot more fun to drive with the extra power.

At least I can brag about having the only 2.0 Aveo, and with the addition of the turbo, I am happier then ever, the 2.0 is a little better to work with for forced induction and it takes boost very well. You can push over 12 psi in this baby with the right tuning on stock internals. Im not planning to go that high but it makes you see the potencial!

If you want to see a nicely boosted 2.0 motor, there is a guy on Daewootech named exist3nce, he lives only 6 hours from me. The dyno video speaks for itself: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8CO4r68W94

You say you're not planning on running 12psi. What are your goals with the turbo setup?

12 psi will blow the crappy D20 transmission in under a month.

It can't take more then 200 ft-lbs at the wheels. I am starting off at 5 psi because I'm still using the stock clutch, anything above 5 psi will most likely make it slip badly. Until I get a better clutch in there thats the plan to start.

I want to ultimately run at a level that will keep the torque at 190-200 lb-ft at the wheels. I will have to run the car on a dyno to check it out.

But after the cluch is in, I'll ramp it up to 8 psi see how it goes.

This is my first time playing and tuning a turbo system, so I'm taking it easy, the car is also my daily driver I dont want something that will blow transmissions or other things because I'm running too much boost. I want to make it reliable and fun to drive, spend my time in the driver's seat, not under it with a wrench in my hand.

sounds like a hell of a project, but i'm sure you feel the results every time you drive your car, compared to a stock aveo :D

The final piece of the puzzle arrived in the mail this morning, 4 DSM 450cc "Bluetop" injectors

Install starts tomorow.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...MInjectors.jpg

=D> good luck with the install
you already have us all jealous with the 2.0 swap :lol:

Day went a little slower then I hoped it would. I had to run to the store several times but hey hickups happen when doing a project like this!

- Front bumber removed
- Air Conditionner radiator removed (Don't have A/C anymore)
- Intercooler installed
- Charge piping from throttle body to intercooler installed
- Cat and downpipe removed, exhaust cut right behind flex pipe
- Oil pan removed, tapped for oil return and reinstalled

Little accident happened to me, while cutting up the front bumber, the grinder cutting disk snapped in 3, one piece hit my legs and I barely felt it, one other piece flew off somewhere and the 3rd piece hit my left forearm full force right behind the wrist! I gotta say thank god I was wearing my cotton vest, which has loose enough sleeves that it slowed the shrapnel down quite a bit but it still hurt me pretty bad, felt like my arm had been hit by a sledge hammer and broken in 2. Also punctured a small hole the size of a pencil lead in my arm, god knows how deep but holy crap that hurt! I got lucky.. No more grinders lol

On to pics now, enjoy!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10164.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10166.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10170.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10169.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10172.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10174.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10177.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10179.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10181.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/SDC10178.jpg

Lookin good so far!

Please post some pics of your modified manifold. Just curious as to how it was done.

so what are you using for manifold?

awsome work man! and about manifold, youre saying you can stay with original one?

Yes the original one, everything is done and the car is running boosted now, but i really need a new motor, the crank seal is pissing oil like crazy and i blew the headgasket last night lol

The new motor will have a stronger and thicker headgasket installed.

Crazy busy trying to finish all this, so ill have to snap pics when im done swapping in the new motor and post them up.

Ohh btw, 1st and 2nd gear.. absolutely no traction lol its amazing BOOST FOR THE WIN!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nemasys

, so ill have to snap pics when im done swapping in the new motor and post them up.

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Better yet, snap some pics WHILE swapping, that way we can all see the progress when you're done. :D Might be very useful for those of us who will decide to go your route down the road. 8)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by serega12

Better yet, snap some pics WHILE swapping, that way we can all see the progress when you're done. :D Might be very useful for those of us who will decide to go your route down the road. 8)

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Thats kinda useless as I already have everything done and ready to simply drop in a new 2.0 motor, even if I took pics it would be like like if you were swapping your 1.6 for another 1.6

I will take pics of what im going to do to the new 2.0 tho, MLS headgasket, ARP headstuds and a carbon kevlar performance clutch.

Just a small update.

I have a new engine coming in next week, a 2007 2.0L motor with 31000 kms.

I also ordered an MLS head gasket, a set of ARP head studs and a 4 puck carbon kevlar clutch kit with a 1500lb pressure plate.

New engine? Why?

HIS 2.0 has main seal issues.. and now a head gasket..

Very nice and interesting. I have a opel(vauxhall) corsa with a 2l 16v motor, its done often here and turbo is more common

What is your 2.0 motor? Is it gm made? Ecotech or etech II?
Is it an 8valve?

I saw 1 or two aveos with the same motor i have(c20xe - 110kw to 115kw then a south african only 125kw, i have that 1).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nemasys

Just a small update.

I have a new engine coming in next week, a 2007 2.0L motor with 31000 kms.

I also ordered an MLS head gasket, a set of ARP head studs and a 4 puck carbon kevlar clutch kit with a 1500lb pressure plate.

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should you not drop the compression ratio? That might be why the head gasket blew. Over here we pocket the pistons or get low comp ones. Also people fit a thicker head gasket.

The gasket blew because i ran the car at 6 psi on the stock ecu and tune.

The engine had a bad main crank seal so i dont really care what happens to it, it had to be changed anyways.

The motor is from the Chevy Optra found in Canada or the Suzuki Forenza found in the States.

what year is your original engine swap out of again? i just noticed the 2007 posted above, i though your original swap was older than that.

what year range were those engine (code?)

The old one is a 2004, the 2007 is a newer version with electronic throttle body and stuff, i will have to swap my throttle body from my old engine.

Don't wanna change stuff around to use the electronic TB? :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by serega12

Don't wanna change stuff around to use the electronic TB? :D

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Hell NO! That is the worst thing they have put on cars ever.

Even if someone would give me the entire system to make it work for free i would throw that crap in the garbage. You will never get the same throttle response and "feel" you get with a cable driven throttle than an electronic throttle body.

Someday i wont have a choice to use it because all the new cars are coming out with this system. I wouldnt mind having it on my daily driver, but a modified car, cable driven throttle for the win!!!

They make kits for vw to eliminate the dbw. Just tossing that out there. But it could be done to our cars as well using an 04 throttle body cable and pedal. Provided the signal from the tps is the same as the signal to the computer. The only thing is programming, like always.

But I agree I would rather have a cable too.

I agree, dbw will never feel the same as having a cable... nemasys, a question for FAR down the road: how much would say someone would spend to build the same engine/tranny setup as you got right now (turbo included)?

Well that all depends my friend.

It all depends on what your going to pay for whatever you get. The price of the engine and transmission is pretty straightforward, your looking at roughly 2000 dollars more of less for the engine, all the components you will need to make it work and the transmission.

As far as the turbo kit, that all depends what you want to get. It's very hard to give an estimate since you might want to go with an ebay turbo setup or brand name parts. I got lucky with my AEM Wideband, HKS SSQV BoV and the OBX Wastegate, I got all 3 brand new for $250. The wideband alone is worth 300. I wouldnt go with a full ebay setup tho, alot of parts are cheap in those kits. My turbo, intercooler and piping is ebay quality (CX Racing). The rest of the parts, like i said, i got a killer deal on.

Then theres engine management and fuel to consider, the cost of tuning if you cant do it yourself, and any other labour for the job and engine installation.

I would presume an easy minimum of 4000 dollars is what your looking at to put the 2.0 in and turbocharge it (And thats with a cheap ebay turbo kit). And thats not counting any labour or other things you might have to pay. (Plugs, oil, gaskets, nuts and bolts, fittings, hoses, tools, etc etc..)

If your going for the "good" stuff then expect to pay well over 5000. It's quite an investement.

I finished wiring the megasquirt and everything checks out except the tach signal i need to trigger the unit so it can fire the injectors.

Im running the unit in fuel only mode, all the required sensors are connected and work properly but i cant get a tach signal to work. Normally you just use the ground from the ignition coil to get the signal, but unlike 95% of the cars on the road, these cars use a different ignition system. The ECU sends a positive 5 volt pulse to the coil to fire the ignition, the drivers are built into the coil assembly making it impossible to get a ground from them.

I emailed some ppl, see what comes up.. right now im dead in the water.

You should be able to get the 5V signal from the wire that goes to your tach. I found this pic in the service manual. You just have to figure out where pin 68 is on the ECU or pin 2 on the C204 connector.

I hope thats the right diagram. I used the online one and theres three different engines. This is the only one that showed a tach signal though... I suppose if its a white wire, you're in business.

http://www.aveoforum.com/phpBB3/down...a643988faacca8

The problem is all the wires going to the cluster on the 2004-2006 are white. And the speedometer and tachometer signals are both A/C.

Speedo and tach signals are pulsed DC signals. Its quite a bit different than AC.

He should still be able to find it by referencing the connector pins. But all white wires... wow that sucks.

Im not sure the unit will "understand" any type of 5v pulse.

In fuel only the trigger works by tapping into the ground of the distributor coil. In those cases the unit sees a 12v signal and it drops to 0v when the coil gets triggered (grounded). The unit will understand this signal.

Its totally different with these cars, i will need somekind of circuit that converts the 5v pulse from the ecu into a 12v - 0v pulse... I think lol

Well, it would be too hard to make a simple circuit that has a 5v signal trigger a mosfet that controls 12V. I find it odd that the megasquirt doesn't allow for this simple thing. This isn't the only car out there with a 5V ignition signal. This has to be at least a semi-common problem, however I'm really not familiar with the megasquirt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Daox

Well, it would be too hard to make a simple circuit that has a 5v signal trigger a mosfet that controls 12V. I find it odd that the megasquirt doesn't allow for this simple thing. This isn't the only car out there with a 5V ignition signal. This has to be at least a semi-common problem, however I'm really not familiar with the megasquirt.

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Wouldn't an injector have a 12v signal?