2009 Aveo Crankshaft-Camshaft Correlation

We recently had to do a head job on a 2009 Chevy Aveo. The guy never changed his timing belt and ended up bending ALL of the valves when the belt stripped out. We got it all done and back together and now we keep getting a engine code saying theres a correlation problem between the crankshaft and camshafts. I have taken it all back apart 3 additional times after the head was fixed trying to get this straightened out and I am stuck here. Are there any relearn procedures for the Variable Cams? It seems that the phasers/solenoids might keep throwing the exhaust cam out of time? Any help would be greatly appreciated! If you would like to call me my phone number is (517) 442-2054.

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Originally Posted by AfterHoursAuto

We recently had to do a head job on a 2009 Chevy Aveo. The guy never changed his timing belt and ended up bending ALL of the valves when the belt stripped out. We got it all done and back together and now we keep getting a engine code saying theres a correlation problem between the crankshaft and camshafts. I have taken it all back apart 3 additional times after the head was fixed trying to get this straightened out and I am stuck here. Are there any relearn procedures for the Variable Cams? It seems that the phasers/solenoids might keep throwing the exhaust cam out of time? Any help would be greatly appreciated! If you would like to call me my phone number is (517) 442-2054.

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the Cam/Crank Relearn procedure requires a Tech 2 or Aftermarket Equivalent (which can cost upwards of thousands of dollars)

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Originally Posted by 2010AveoLT

the Cam/Crank Relearn procedure requires a Tech 2 or Aftermarket Equivalent (which can cost upwards of thousands of dollars)

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Will a relearn fix my problem? We have access Snap On Modis. Would it be sufficient to do the relearn procedure?

It is having a hard time starting. Once it starts the idle is up and down, but sounds like its firing on all 4 once it starts. It also bogs down when we give it some gas.

Assuming you've reconnected everything correctely, I'd suspect a timing issue. Did you try a compression and leak down test?

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Originally Posted by avguy

Assuming you've reconnected everything correctely, I'd suspect a timing issue. Did you try a compression and leak down test?

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I've set the timing 3 times. I turn it over by hand a few times and it stays in time. I start it and it runs for a while then the code comes back. I take it back apart and the exhaust cam is out of time. When we had the heads done they ground the valve seats and installed all new valves and new valve seals.

I can't discuss any specific timing procedural aspects, because I've only done belts on my '05 and '06. The '09 uses a different set of part numbers, and so I don't want suggest something that may be wrong for an '09.
But I will ask did you replaced all 4 timing belt components? From many prior posts, it's been fairly well established that these timing failures are typically caused by component pulley or bearing failures, or installation errors, rather than the belt itself failing. So if there is still an old pulley or the WP in the mix, that might explain what's happening with this Aveo.

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Originally Posted by avguy

I can't discuss any specific timing procedural aspects, because I've only done belts on my '05 and '06. The '09 uses a different set of part numbers, and so I don't want suggest something that may be wrong for an '09.
But I will ask did you replaced all 4 timing belt components? From many prior posts, it's been fairly well established that these timing failures are typically caused by component pulley or bearing failures, or installation errors, rather than the belt itself failing. So if there is still an old pulley or the WP in the mix, that might explain what's happening with this Aveo.

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I replaced the belt idler and tensioner. the water pump is not driven off of the timing belt in 09. the only thing not replaced are the phasers on the camshafts (It has the variable cam timing).

Yep, I remember now that the WP was taken out of the loop in the '09. The last generic question I'll ask is did you figure out what caused the belt to strip? Bad bearing on the pulley or tensioner? If there's no obvious reason, then perhaps the root cause is also what you're seeing with the timing going off. Have you taken a close look at the cam/crank pulleys? I've never read an account of one of those being bad and causing a problem, but I guess any part could be defective - maybe a hairline crack in the metal allowing some give. Far fetched I know, and also really unlikely.
Sorry I can't offer much help on this, but obviously I'm not familiar with details of an '09. Good luck, and hope you get it figured out soon!

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Originally Posted by avguy

Yep, I remember now that the WP was taken out of the loop in the '09. The last generic question I'll ask is did you figure out what caused the belt to strip? Bad bearing on the pulley or tensioner? If there's no obvious reason, then perhaps the root cause is also what you're seeing with the timing going off. Have you taken a close look at the cam/crank pulleys? I've never read an account of one of those being bad and causing a problem, but I guess any part could be defective - maybe a hairline crack in the metal allowing some give. Far fetched I know, and also really unlikely.
Sorry I can't offer much help on this, but obviously I'm not familiar with details of an '09. Good luck, and hope you get it figured out soon!

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I assumed the belt probably stripped out from neglect. The car has 160k miles and it was never changed.

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Originally Posted by AfterHoursAuto

I assumed the belt probably stripped out from neglect. The car has 160k miles and it was never changed.

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When I did the first belt change on my '05, it was at 90K miles. We all have busy lives with lots going on, and this one got away from me and I was fortunate nothing bad happened as a result. Anyway, at 90K the old belt looked like it just came out of the box. No marks or wear cracks, even when bent backwards. The thing looked like it could have easily lasted another 90K. And the second belt on this '05 at 150K, and the first one from our '06 at 65K both looked brand new as well.
Now what you say may very well be correct, that the belt gave up after too many miles - IDK. But based on my (limited) experience, these belts are built extremely well (and need to be based on what they're being required to do). So, what I'm suggesting is to examine all of the other components carefully, to make certain there's no defect which could have been the real cause for the belt to fail.

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Originally Posted by AfterHoursAuto

Will a relearn fix my problem? We have access Snap On Modis. Would it be sufficient to do the relearn procedure?

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then you're good to go, as i Believe the Modis actually supports the Cam/Crank Relearn procedure.

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Originally Posted by 2010AveoLT

then you're good to go, as i Believe the Modis actually supports the Cam/Crank Relearn procedure.

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We had that done and it made no difference. Anything else we should try? We tried to go to the dealership but they are over a month out for diagnostic.

Any news on what the fix was to this problem? I am having the same issue with my aveo now and can not for the life of me figure out what the problem is.

Im having the same problem as well. Changed the cam sensor, crankshaft sensor, coil pack, plugs, wires, fuel pump (which includes filter) and added fuel injector cleaner. Mine starts no problem but still getting a code for my camshaft... so confused. Did u figure anything out sauceboss?

I may add that it starts but rpms are jumpy, and car dies. It runs longer in idle (5min or so) than in drive (1-2min or so) and is worse when the car heats up verse when I first start it.

did you figure out what was your problem? I'm having the same problem I took the crank sensor out but i cannot find any specs

This isn't an Aveo but hopefully it is done in a similar way on an Aveo

How To: Crankshaft Position Variation Learn - Chevy/GMC Colorado/Canyon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qd-1BBVv9o

Is not mention in here, so I don't think it needs to relearn

The following idle learn procedure must be performed whenever one or more of the actions listed below are taken;
•Replacement of new ECM
•Replacement of new throttle body
•Cleaning of carbon deposit on the throttle body
•Power disconnection (battery cable, ECM fuse, etc.)
1Turn the ignition ON.
2Turn the ignition OFF for 15 seconds.
3Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
4Turn the ignition OFF for 15 seconds.
5Start the engine in park/neutral.
6Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 85 °C.
7Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
8If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, apply the parking brake. While pressing the brake pedal, place the transaxle in D (drive) for 10 seconds.
9Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
10If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, while pressing the brake pedal, place the transaxle in park/neutral.
11Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete.


Daewoo Service Manual

Try running it with the crank unplugged. A few people (including myself) had issues with terrible idle and throttle response after engine replacement. It will be driveable but not very nice if it works.