2005 Aveo with a bad belt

I am new so here is a little background:
Wife bought a 2005 Aveo 5dr brand new in may 2005. She drove the car eveyday and did no maintenance to it at all. I got the call last Novemeber that the car died when she was driving it. Car towed to a shop and they said timing belt went and probably screwed up the valves. Long story short; car sat for the past year and new it is home and paid off. Using this forum, I pulled the head off. I was told by the repair shop that it had bent valves and at least one piston had a hole. After pulling the head I see no piston damage. Valves are toast though. I am looking for advice where to go from here? Buy a reman head? with valves and springs only or full head? repair my head? Some of the items look hard to change when the car is complete- starter , alternator, hoses; should I change them now?Attachment 5026Attachment 5027Attachment 5028

i would just get a reman head and bolt it right up, as far as the other items are concerned if there still working i wouldnt change them

So you think I should just buy the full head and obviously a new timing belt, tensioner, and gasket set?
-I asked about the other parts because they look hard to get to latter and I plan on keeping the car. I am going to drive it as a daily driver while my truck gets a new engine. Any other parts I should change or upgrade while in there? I was reading something about a metal water neck?

yeah i had my head rebuilt when my belt broke and cost me quite a bit,im not sure how many parts are involved when it comes to putting on a new head, but wouldnt replace the parts with new ones, the part you heard of the it metal thermostat housing which many people have swaped out intead of the old plastic one that was prone to breaking.

Do I need to get a full reman head or can I just buy the head with valves and springs? I guess what I am asking is willmy cam and lifters just pull from my head and go onto the new one? Is there cam bearings involved?

you dont need a full reman. you can also just get yours rebuilt, or buy used. look into what option you feel comfortable ith and can afford.

Thanks for the advice so far. I have no problems with paying decent money for a good head. Like I said, I want the car to be sound as I will need to drive it for a bit. I still wonder about moving the cams from my head to a reman. head. Are there bearings involved in this? How are they handled? Swap them over or buy new? I am very familiar with v-8's and haven't done a OHC engine in a long time.Attachment 5029

If the cams aren't warped or excessively worn, you could reuse them. You would just have to check the clearance and make sure it's within spec. I'm not sure if the cam bearings are serviceable off the top of my head, but I believe they are part of the head.

I just got a 05 that had a timing belt let loose at 80mph. I had the head rebuilt by a race shop in town and only cost me $200. Your case I would look into a used motor from a auto recycler. I found one for $900. Since if you spend the 700 large for a reman head then repair the piston you will have more into the motor than a low milage salvage motor.

Good Luck

You must have missed the last few posts. My pistons are fine. Only the valves are trashed. My question is if I get a reman. head without the cams and lifters; what is involved in putting my cam and lifters into the new head? Is it nothing more than swapping the cam and lifters and retorquing the cam bearing caps? Are there any bearings or clearances I need to check?

Sorry about that SAS (Short Attention Span). One thing to remember is that when you have a shop rebuild the heads they will vacum test them for fit. You do not want to have blow by we already do not have enough HP. Plus you can get 2 rebuilds out of the Aveo head. I paid $140 to have 8 exhaust valves and 2 intake vales and a vacum test.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bitter-fitter

You must have missed the last few posts. My pistons are fine. Only the valves are trashed. My question is if I get a reman. head without the cams and lifters; what is involved in putting my cam and lifters into the new head? Is it nothing more than swapping the cam and lifters and retorquing the cam bearing caps? Are there any bearings or clearances I need to check?

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it is basically that simple yes, you have to set timing etc as well (before it gets bolt to the engine)
the head reman would not oversize the cam carriers/caps or any reason but damage, and they would tell you if they did. but i do not see reason they would. Clearances are not particularly set, and the ohc hydraulic lifters do not need valve lash or anything like that

honestly though, you could almost swap out the bent valves for new and lap them in yourself.. if there is no surface damage.

I just may do this myself. I have built plenty of engines in the past and this is something I feel comfortable doing.

Just a quick update. I have the head out and all that I need to take apart, removed. I have all my new parts and I am just waiting on a reman head to show up. I am hoping tomorrow it shows. I will keep a photo log as I go for anyone who cares.
Parts I am replacing:
Timing set: belt, tensioner,idler, and water pump
alum. t-stat housing and t-stat
New head bolts
Cylinder head replacement gasket set
Remanufactured head with my cams and lifters
Intake hose as it was cracked

Total so far $668.00

I think I need to replace the rear timing belt cover. It has a few melted areas and the bottom below the crank pulley is missing. Where can I get these? Other than the dealer!

I found out that the bottom of the cover is supposed to have a missing area. I was able to clean up the rear timing cover and use it. My next issue is I have a small plastic nipple coming off the back of my valve cover, next to the larger one on the back left side. It is not plugged and I do not seem to have any hoses that are not connected. Where does this connect to? I can get a picture if needed. Please help!!

there is a car that had the same issue before and the valve cover was plugged there. some models had a line going to the throttle body though.

I know when I took this car apart, I didn't take anything off this port. I hope it was not open all this time!!! Any idea where on the throttle body this could go to?
I did see some other people asking about this, but I could not find what the answer was to their questions either.

I also have one more loose end and it is a big one. All I have left to do is plug in the coolant temp sensor wiring and put in the airbox. How the heck do you get to that coolant sensor on the back of the head? If I knew better I would have connected this when I was dropping the head on. Now itis a reall PITA!!! What is the best way to get to this at this point??? From the top, bottom , left, right side????

Did you get this complete?

I am replacing a head in an Aveo, and having trouble swapping over the coolant tube from the old head to the new tube. How did you accomplish this?

Also, any tips/tricks for removing intake manifold studs?

thanks,
Jon

Hey just wondering how your aveo turned out?? Im going through a similar situation right now due to a guy leaving my waterpump bolts loose and the coolant all leaking out.

I did not have to remove the coolant tube from the back of the head. I believe this is part of the head assy. and came with my rebuilt head. For the studs; I double nutted them, jambed the nuts against each other and got them to turn. They were thread locked in but came out with a little work. Probably one of the hadest parts of the rebuild. NOTE: Car still works great after everything I did. Only problem I had was an engine light caused by a poor connection at the coolant temp. sensor on the back of the head. Make sure to connect this when installing the head as it is hard to get to latter. I found out the hard way!!

If the pictures in your post are from the engine you are saying just needs a head you better think again those pistons are shot. not to mention you could have bent rods crank and a whole other bunch of issues. I know I'm redoing my 05 right now!!

Not sure who you're talking to there? If you're responding to someone, usually best to include that avatar in your post. If it's to me, my pistons show little to no damage. Obviously there was a hit, as the head is ruined, but all pistons come to TDC smoothly, and have only slight burring along the valve reliefs for visible damage.

On another note, if someone experiences the same issue I did with the coolant tube, it is pressed in there rather tight, but gently tapping it side to side, and up and down, lightly with a hammer for about 5 minutes finally got it out.

Here's hoping.....

Yes I was responding to you sorry about not making that clearer. Just thought I'd give you some good advice since I've been building engines for 30 some years now and work closely with a lot of skilled machinists at some really good speed shops. My 2005 engine looked about like yours maybe a little worse. My timing belt derailed due to an idler cracking and shattering. After some discussion with Rick my favorite machinist and speed shop owner in clifton park NY, we came to the conclusion that while after measurements the crank was still good. the block needed to be bored out .020 over and everything else is going to be new, except the head which is a rebuild from Cylinder Heads International. I bought the complete head and yes you can get it minus the cams and so forth but its really not worth the meager savings and then you lose warrantee because your messing with their product ! If you are extremely lucky you can redo your head bolt it back on and happy motoring. If not you could have cracks in your pistons that you can't see and its not worth pulling and magnafluxing them or a host of other issues that I won't go into given the time it would take. My engine turned over fine also once the head was removed but that in itself doesn't mean squat. So I don't know who is telling you just do the head and go or if its inexperience, either way the choice is yours but i've seen a lot of people "fix" engines and had them come apart shortly after being fixed. Then wondering why. I don't do jobs unless I do them right, that way few things ever go wrong with my builds. This is just advice please don't be offended by my offering it I just don't want to see you throw good money away. Trust me I don't have that luxury and wouldn't do it even if I did. Well good luck whichever way you go with it. Hey thanks for the tip on responding in the forum it never dawned on me, I usually only talk to the person who started the thread but your right !!

Yes jonota I was responding to you sorry about not making that clearer. Just thought I'd give you some good advice since I've been building engines for 30 some years now and work closely with a lot of skilled machinists at some really good speed shops. My 2005 engine looked about like yours maybe a little worse when my timing belt derailed due to an idler cracking and shattering. After some discussion with Rick my favorite machinist and speed shop owner in clifton park NY, we came to the conclusion that while after measurements the crank was still good. the block needed to be bored out .020 over and everything else is going to be new, except the head which is a rebuild from Cylinder Heads International. I bought the complete head and yes you can get it minus the cams and so forth but its really not worth the meager savings and then you lose warrantee because your messing with their product ! If you are extremely lucky you can redo your head bolt it back on and happy motoring. If not you could have cracks in your pistons that you can't see and its not worth pulling and magnafluxing them or a host of other issues that I won't go into given the time it would take. My engine turned over fine also once the head was removed but that in itself doesn't mean squat. So I don't know who is telling you just do the head and go or if its inexperience, either way the choice is yours but i've seen a lot of people "fix" engines and had them come apart shortly after being fixed. Then wondering why. I don't do jobs unless I do them right that way few things ever go wrong with my builds. This is just advice please don't be offended by my offering it I just don't want to see you throw good money away. Trust me I don't have that luxury and wouldn't do it even if I did. Well good luck whichever way you go with it. Hey thanks for the tip on responding in the forum it never dawned on me, I usually only talk to the person who started the thread but your right !!

Believe it or not, but I'm with you. This is actually not my car, but a friends' daughter's car. I urged him to do a full rebuild, but he didn't want to pony up that much money, or get a used intact motor. He was going to sell the whole car for $500, so I urged him to let me at least try to put a head on it, he can then at least see if it can give him more than that in value. This isn't the first time I've done a timing belt piston/valve strike put together this way, but I don't like it either. I wouldn't drive it myself, at least not any appreciable distance.

Yeah it comes down to cash most of the time so hope it works out !!

i have a question in the same issue when i purchased my 06LT it had 100000 on it and i had no idea if the timing belt had been changed so i changed it replaced idler tensioner and waterpump and it had been fine since now the question is do i replace it again at 160 000 ? or are the aftermarket products not so prone to breaking ? can i get 80,000 miles out of the aftermarket belt ?

and to the people with broken belts ... how many miles did you get ?