Check Engine light on. (Oxygen Sensor. "bank 1")

[avguy]

You have had quite a journey getting your vehicle fixed, but at least it appears to be over. I really don't understand how they could have spent so much time and effort if the actual (and only) culprit was the O2 sensor. A bad O2 often results in an OBD code that helps diagnose the problem, such as a cat-related code. But maybe this was not the case with yours. And it's also a bit early for an O2 to go, but I suppose that's variable as well. It would be really nice to know what code(s) they saw, but you probably would never get them to give you that information.
And thank YOU for posting your outcome, because it can be a help to others on this forum. For the DIY guys with a 2009, this becomes another thing to consider for misfire, after the wires have been changed, and the other common ignition items are done.

[Gurkhaman]

Hi avguy, indeed, it was quite a journey to get my car fixed, however, I cannot fault these guys on after sales customer care. I also cannot understand why it took them so many attempts to finally realise what the actual problem was, I would have thought that, being main dealers, they would have specifically trained mechanics. You are correct in surmising that I would probably never get them to give me the information now that they have fixed the problem.

I do hope that my outcome will be able to help others with similar problems. Once more, thank you all very much for being so very helpful.

[Divinity]

I just completed this repair on my 09 Chevy Aveo and ran into the same issue in wiring the Bosch sensor. I ordered the ac delco exact fit and got it home and was able to cross reference the ac delco replacement wiring and the original defective o2 sensor. The ac delco o2 sensor had the exact same wire coloring as the Bosch. I found that the purple and white wires correspond to the heater wires described in the instructions (2 white wires on the Bosch o2 sensor) black and gray match exactly from the original wire harness/ plug to the Bosch 02 sensor. I hope this helps and helps anyone else. Reset ECU by disconnecting neg battery terminal for approx 10 min. and reconnect. I have not had the check engine light come back on as of yet.

[sjrw11]

I had the engine light come on and took it to Canadian Tire immediately. They charged $52 to read and reset the "bank1 lean" problem. The next week the reader was on sale and I bought one. The light came on a couple of times. First I used fuel system cleaner, and then I ran a couple tanks of medium grade fuel with no ethanol. The light has not come back on for a couple weeks. The reader has paid for itself resetting several CEL on family vehicles. I never realised how easy they are to use. I was planning on replacing the battery this year, but the reader has a battery/alternator test function that indicates it is OK.

[avguy]

I had the engine light come on and took it to Canadian Tire immediately. They charged $52 to read and reset the "bank1 lean" problem. The next week the reader was on sale and I bought one. The light came on a couple of times. First I used fuel system cleaner, and then I ran a couple tanks of medium grade fuel with no ethanol. The light has not come back on for a couple weeks. The reader has paid for itself resetting several CEL on family vehicles. I never realised how easy they are to use. I was planning on replacing the battery this year, but the reader has a battery/alternator test function that indicates it is OK.

Did Canadian Tire at least tell you anything about likely/possible repairs when they read the code? I sure hope so, because charging $52 to just read and reset a code would be a totally unprofessional thing for a shop to do, unless you specifically told them to do exactly that.
Not trying to sound critical, but I'm scratching my head about what you're doing with the code reader. It's a good idea to have one and use it, but they're not intended to be used to just reset codes and continue driving. Sure every once in a while a stray code could get set which turns out to not really be a problem, but MOST of the time a code means that something's wrong - often a part that's going South. The previous posters in this thread talk about replacing the upstream O2 sensor, and that's a common part that fails after a number of years. Do yourself a favor and try to research these codes, and find out what parts are related to the codes, and might need to be replaced or cleaned. Sometimes the problem behind a code will turn out to go beyond just one part, but OBD codes wind up at least being in the right ballpark in most cases.

[sjrw11]

Did Canadian Tire at least tell you anything about likely/possible repairs when they read the code? I sure hope so, because charging $52 to just read and reset a code would be a totally unprofessional thing for a shop to do, unless you specifically told them to do exactly that.
Not trying to sound critical, but I'm scratching my head about what you're doing with the code reader. It's a good idea to have one and use it, but they're not intended to be used to just reset codes and continue driving. Sure every once in a while a stray code could get set which turns out to not really be a problem, but MOST of the time a code means that something's wrong - often a part that's going South. The previous posters in this thread talk about replacing the upstream O2 sensor, and that's a common part that fails after a number of years. Do yourself a favor and try to research these codes, and find out what parts are related to the codes, and might need to be replaced or cleaned. Sometimes the problem behind a code will turn out to go beyond just one part, but OBD codes wind up at least being in the right ballpark in most cases.

CT did not suggest any repairs. They did say that if the code returned they would investigate further. The reader cost $90 on sale, so it was a no brainer. My code reader indicated a post Catalytic converter lean condition. The code has not returned over the last two weeks. I never ignore a warning light, but I am pretty fed up with being taken to the cleaners. This is probably due to a fouled O2 sensor. If it does return then I will take further action.

[MacFady]

Just joined this forum for my wife. Just as an FYI, I'm not sure if it is discussed here much, I'm coming from an Audi/BMW background, you can buy an ELM 327 OBD2 bluetooth connector online for under $30, download the Torque app for your smart phone for free, and read/clear OBD codes as well as get realtime information on timing, air fuel ratio, intake temperatures, the list goes on. You can see some features here.

I would never pay to have a code cleared or read when you can do it and more yourself for <$30.

My wifes CEL came on right after we purchased the car. I plugged into the OBD port and there were 6 codes all relating to bank 1, heater, pending CAT failure etc. all related to the downstream O2 sensor. She's been driving it as is ever for over a year now, no problem. Going to swap in the AlDelco one this weekend but as far as I know, the downstream sensor simply relays information on the status of the catalytic converter.

As far as the B2AAA code mentioned on the previous page, it's a "pending" code, it's really a P0420 code indicating pending catalytic converter failure. You were simply getting that code because of what I stated above, your downstream O2 sensor failed, meaning false or no input regarding the catalystic converter, hence a B2AAA code. I can't believe OP had such an issue getting that diagnosed, too bad.

Some of the other associated ones you might get with that sensor are:
P0036
P0138
P0140
P0141
P0599

Hope this helps someone.

[WyrTwister]

I have one of the little blue tooth OBDII readers & Torque on my android phone . Paid $ 5 - 10 , freight paid from China .

Several places on Ebay have them .

Auto ELM327 V1 5 Interface Bluetooth OBD 2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Auto Scanner | eBay

Hear in the States , most of the local chain auto parts stores will read codes for free .

God bless
Wyr