04 Died On The Run, Sparks But Won't Even Try To Start

[driz]

Hi, I don't own an Aveo but I know a guy who just got an 04. He only had it a few days and it just flat died on the run. Instantly shut right down with no restart. I pried back the top of the cover ad verified that the usual suspect (timing belt) wasn't broken. It's there and seems to go around well with no obvious flaws and seems tight.
Ok I tried the schrader valve and all that came out was a drool. Typical headache #2 down so went and picked up a good used Ebay Fuel pump. Put it in and it sprays fuel all over the place. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but it seems comparable to my other cars. Should have fixed it right, NOPE.
OK so checked all the fuses visually which could affect electronics , fuel , ignition or anything else that could be found, all were OK.
I put a screwdriver in a random plug wire and it tossed a large bright "WHITE" spark. Seemed a bit odd but by the size of it the thing is at least trying to fire yet would not even chug with starter fluid.
Question is WHAT NEXT? I first thought it had a diode burned out like my Honda last year which behaved similarly yet that large white spark rules that out.
So what about the injectors? could it be they aren't opening at all. How about PASSLOCK, the known Chevy curse that drives some owners nuts. He was using the same key he had all 3 days he drove it before it's quitting. Where would you look next? I am out of the country for a month but want to help him kick this pig over via the net or however I can. FWIW when I first worked on it the only codes I saw were something relating to fuel but I forgot to take the meter with me the day I put the pump in. The car is in nice shape with just 200k miles on it. What next?????????????

[driz]

Holy crap it;s been 2 days and no answer . It must be bad................... One good thing though, it's not my car

[avguy]

If everything is ok with the timing belt loop as you indicated, and all of the plugs are sparking, then the cam sensor/wiring failing is one thing that comes to mnd that might be the cause of dying and not restarting. Would expect a code from that though, but who knows, maybe not.

[driz]

If everything is ok with the timing belt loop as you indicated, and all of the plugs are sparking, then the cam sensor/wiring failing is one thing that comes to mnd that might be the cause of dying and not restarting. Would expect a code from that though, but who knows, maybe not.

Yea, I forgot the code reader the day I was over there last , was so sure it was the pump. Somehow it had been running on near zero fuel pressure. I thought there was no spark when a cam sensor goes. My 95 Civic died on the run from a bad distributor resistor and it stopped like his did but had no spark at all. That's what is odd with his . I didn't pull the plug but from a screwdriver to the ground of the engine it was throwing one almighty white spark. Even if it wasn't firing good enough to start you would think it would at least sneeze a time or two on starting fluid. THat's what I can't get my head around. Would a cam sensor do that? I really know squat about this type engine so I am flying blind here even though I have been wrenching my own cars for 40 years. I;m 5000 miles away from there till February but will see if I can get him my code reader and see what is showing now. Tbanks.

[avguy]

First a disclaimer that I'm just a shade tree guy, and also have not had a cam or a crank sensor go bad on either one of our Aveos, so no first-hand experience with this. That said, from what I've read about this in prior threads, there won't be spark with a bad crank sensor/wire. But there can be spark with a bad cam sensor/wire, however it will be out of time. So, if that's correct, it would fit what you're seeing.
AFA the spark test goes, I agree that the spark you saw would make that seem to be ok. But just because it's easy, if it were mine, I would pull the plugs and watch how all 4 of them spark. The problem is probably not there, but as I said it's fast and easy to do on these Aveos.

[driz]

Thanks, I am going to have him swing by my place and pick up my code reader when he gets out of work. Then I hope he can figure out how to use the thing and get the code. Like you said it should show up. It's been my experience that sensors like that almost always to. I'll let you know what he finds. BTW do you happen to know where the cam sensor is located on the block ? It it's up top he should be able to change it out himself

[avguy]

Yep, conveniently located on top. I would like to tell you it would be easy to change out. But every time I say that on a job I haven't done before, it just about guarantees that something will either not come out, not go back in, or just snap off. So you can post how it goes for him, if you decide to replace the sensor

[driz]

Yea the old Hairdryer seems to help a lot with that breaking plastic things problem. I use one all the time and it sure does cut down on the busted goodies and welded on hoses.

Here is the bad news, my putz pal 5000 miles away did the reader thing and says it came up "NO CODES". He isn't much on using one of those boxes but still, if he got that to come up it's probably all there is to see. BEATS ME

[driz]

Question, when I get back I ant to put the slipped timing belt to bed real quick before anything else. Especially since the other PO had belt changed and who knows what if anything else. A quick look at the schematics and I can't think of how anybody would do that belt and not toss the water pump, idler (that loves to crack) and tensioner. goodies. It's such a no brainer but knowing how people are I also know how they do **** like that all the time.

So how do you check for slip timing on this engine? From the looks of it I don't see any way but to go all the way through the gyrations of pulling the entire cover. I'd bet my right nad that Chevy would never put and inspection window on the lower cover to see the crank mark. So is there a special method. I searched high and low in here and found nothing on the net. Nothing except for the serious warning to ALWAYS change out all those inner goodies or you will trash your engine.

[avguy]

There's more to it than just removing the timing cover. In order to check that all 3 of the timing marks line up, you will also need to remove the harmonic balancer in order to be able to see the crank mark. Not what you wanted to hear, I'm sure.