The LED indicators in the front quarters are a nice touch.
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The LED indicators in the front quarters are a nice touch.
Thank you. How about the body kits???
Sure thing XJCasper,Quote:
Originally Posted by XJCasper
Here are the three kits that they offer (I'm not sure about the part numbers, but if you tell the rep at VersusMotorSport the kit name, they should tell you if they have the whole set.
Bravo...
Thank you.
anytime man. I've looked through these before I made my decision... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by XJCasper
So I'm thinking about a cat-delete mod here (possibly tomorrow)... Has anyone done that? Any HP gain?
I wouldn't bother. A while back I think Import Tuner magazine did the same on a civic or integra. It actually lost a couple HP without the cat. In any case they really aren't restrictive like they were back when they were first put on cars, and IMO there is no reason not to run one.
http://www.importtuner.com/features/061 ... index.html
ok, so I found that article... they say that they get more hp gain from removing it entirely, they're just saying that it's not worth the ticket... But I wonder how much that "high end metallic core cat" would cost... :?
i had 3-4 high flow cats sitting here, most of them are not california emission legal under the new law. i think i paid @ $70 each, and have put them into a few custom exhaust set ups over the last few weeks.
edit: on top of that the "universal" design of them will not fit in the stock location. in fact they would not fit until the midpipe. you might be able to adapt a factory cat form a 2000's mustang they run something like 4 or 6 smaller cats on the H pipe. you could take one of those and put it in, But for the work and costs, it wouldnt be a huge gain either.
if you are really trying to stay cheap, buy a $20 die grinder (really small one) and a bunch of grinding stones and port out your stock exhaust manifold. Gasket match it, opens up the bends and get rid of any factory flashing. Would be better flow and more likely to get you some hp on the cheap.
:shock: :shock: :shock: Is there a DIY on that somewhere? What are the chances of me messing it up?. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
you would really need to grind in one spot a while to mess it up. only way to mess up really is grinding a hole into the manifold or if you miss the hole and grind one on of the gasket surfaces,
If you're worried about that even, you can get salvage yard manifolds for not too much.
Now, by manifold you mean the holes in the header? And I'm just grinding those open? And how far into it can I grind?
You'd probably do best just to remove any casting flashing and sharp edges so it flows a bit better. You do this as far in as you can.
This is the manifold.
And if I just go with xiaogary's header, will there be no grinding to do then? Or do I need to grind the engine side too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
Rabbit,Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
Could you explain "gasket match" part of this? I may look into doing both, porting the header and going cat-less. I know its a cheap way to go but at the moment its sounds very appealing to me...
in general terms, gasket match is a type of porting, where you open both ends of a matching surface to match the gasket opening.
in factory assembled engines there is often a ridge, or different shaped openings etc that decrease flow. by making bother ends of every mating surface smooth when assembled you make the engine more efficient and gain hp previously lost in manufacturing tolerances and or casting changes, etc.
basically you set the gasket on both mounting surfaces of the connection trace it out, and grind/port it open so they match perfectly. you can do this to the manifold if it needs it, to do the head you would need to remove it tear it down, and then you might as well to a full port job.
you would be surprised how far you could get in there with one of those flexible wand die grinder.
I'm intrigued by those LED tail lights - where can a person buy them, or something similar?
Doug in WA state
Right here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-200 ... 942wt_1165Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteaveo
This is actually the same seller I got mine from.
Sergey in WA state. Which part of WA are you from? These tail lights may need just a little modification to your car (bending one panel behind where it goes by about 1/4"... easily done though).
So I think I'll be waiting for headers afterall... The guy who was going to help me with trying the test pipe flaked out on me, and I'm not that familiar with welding myself. Plus, after talking to you guys here I'm not sure if the idea is really worth it... So that project is off for now unless I can get a good deal on a header...
I am now waiting for the chromeintakes CAI piping, AEM bypass valve, and Drycharge Air Intake Wrap to fit the K&N cone that I already have. It should all be in the mail within next couple of days (ordered most of it last night). When I have all that (or at least the piping) I will start putting the whole thing together. :D Now is the hardest part - waiting.
So the chromeintake piping is 3" in diameter? Seems excessive for a 1.6L.
It may be, but rabbit is using it and it seems to work out for him. :) Plus the filter that I already have is 3", so I'll just remove 3" to 2.5" coupler that I already have and just run it 3" all the way to the tb and then just use the coupler that they have. Plus the choice was between AEM for $209 or Chromeintakes for $65. I already have a good quality filter and I would have to buy the bypass valve for either one since I'm living in WA and it always rains here... So I figured I'll go that route...Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
The maf in the 09 aveo is 3" housing as well. it works out. its kind of "trumpeted" into the throttle body with the smoother transition coupler than just hard edged connection, but its like only 1/4" radius difference?
I think the radius difference is bigger on 1st gen Aveos... But I think it should still work out well. I'm just really glad that they agreed to swap out blue couplers with black ones for no extra charge. It will match the colors of the car better...Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
Personally, I'd go with a smaller pipe diameter. If you have to match up to a MAF its one thing, but the 1st gen uses a MAP so you don't have to worry about that. I'd go with 2-2.25" piping myself. With 3" I'm quite sure you'll loose some low and midrange power. How much I can't say.
ChromeIntakes piping has another advantage (for me personally) over AEM - besides the price, it's the position of the cone. It looks like the cone on the ChromeIntakes tubing sits almost a foot higher above the ground... Which is very good for this state. Even though I'm going to use the hydroshield and the bypass valve, I still would rather have it higher than lower.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
Rabbit, did you notice a big drop in power when you went with 3" piping? I don't think it would be very noticeable, I think I'm loosing more power right now by having a home-made SRI that's breathing only hot air under the hood. And even though it's 3" piping it all goes down to 2"-2.5" hole on the TB... So it will be still receiving the same amount of air it needs (or have more access to it) just it will be colder air than the engine bay air. That's my thinking. Could you guys correct me if I'm wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
One thing why I thought that AEM intake was better was because it was all one piece, but when I read up on AEM bypass valve I learned that I'd have to cut that piece to fit the bypass valve, so it would defeat the purpose for me. And the chromeintake tubing is already in two pieces, so I can just fit the much needed bypass valve instead of the coupling. :) Hope that makes sense.
honestly, it seems like it had an increase overall. i also took out the overly restrictive suitcase muffler off the back at the same time, so if not more power in the low end, the ability to breath and get into the higher rpms faster made it more responsive overall. i have not dyno'ed it or anything, but i definitely say its a change for the better, especially when compared to stock. there may be better, correctly sized options out there but the gains from my $32 system i am very happy.
So I received my package from chromeintakes today.. three days after I orfered it! Ordered it on the 28th, have it on the first. I call that a fast shipping. :D didn't get a chance to open it yet, had to leave to take care of something. Will open it when I get home. Will try to remember to take pics while installing it. :)
Lol good luck man i hope you like the new intake.
So I opened the package and everything seems to be in order (the tubes are smaller in real life than I thought they would be), but I got home way too late today to do anything... will have to postpone it until tomorrow or Monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by reddemonx92
So I finally got my intake installed. And it made more difference than I thought it would! I didn't realize how restrictive stock piping is until I installed my CAI!
So anyways, on Sunday night I installed the piping with K&N filter (took some fitting and wiggling since the K&N cone is a little bigger in size than the one that came from chromeintakes but I would rather keep my $65 cone over the $20 one that came with the kit.
And today (Monday) I received the AEM air bypass valve and K&N drycharge wrap (to keep the moisture out). Installed both of those, but it was after dark, and I didn't get a chance to take pictures of the whole thing installed. So here are the pictures that I have so far...
Chromeintakes piping and filter (the K&N that's on the right in the picture got put onto the final setup)
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...091_16561_.jpg
Chromeintakes cone vs K&N cone
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...091_16560_.jpg
And the same filters from the bottom...
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...091_16559_.jpg
Sensor installed (it took some modifying, the plastic "ring" by the base of the sensor would not fit through the opening on the piping, so I took a small metal saw to it... made it fit). It had to be cut out of the stock piping...
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...091_16558_.jpg
And here's a view down the pipe (I double- and triple-checked to make sure that it's sitting in there the right way, I'm not sure if the direction matters, but I installed it exactly the same way so the air would drag across the element in there)
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...091_16557_.jpg
And this is the last photo of the day (both already installed in the car)...
K&N cone wrapped in a nice water repellent hydrowrap, or "drycharge wrap" made exactly to fit by K&N and the AEM air bypass valve... Let's hope it holds up. :D
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...091_16554_.jpg
I will post some pics of the whole thing installed here soon!
i thought so too. nice write up.Quote:
Originally Posted by serega12
Good bye ugly rubber, hello shinny!!
Nice :P
Hey serega12, great looking ride. Seriously.
Sorry to hijack the thread away from the intake discussion, but you mentioned you've thrown an 09/10 spoiler on your 06; any trouble with that? Same mounting holes? It looks like the hatch hasn't changed in the update, but I ordered an 09/10 spoiler for my 07 Aveo5 and I'm wondering how much work I'll have to do to make it fit.
Many thanks.
Mine didn't have any holes to begin with because it came with no spoiler so no holes to match up. And is it hard? If you can drill two holes (that's for the lip spoiler, for the one with two posts it could be 4 holes, not sure), then you can do it. Just measure it first to make sure they fit right. they give you a couple of nice templates, but I just measured mine without them and made sure it would be symmetrical. 2 bolts and a double-tape. That's about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by croush
And you won't have any work to do to make it actually fit, there is no change in the hatch between 04-08 and 09-10 hatches. Just drilling the holes.
That's just what I was hoping to hear. Thanks!
Yup. Glad I could help. 8) Post some pictures up in the Pics and Vids section when you install it. Are you getting the two-post or lip style?Quote:
Originally Posted by croush
just wondering about your springs, do you have any clearance issues with them. i was thinking about getting some this summer and i'm just afraid i'm going to bottom out.
Nope. Not so far. I'm even able to drive up about a 45 degree driveway if I do it carefully. :D And that's with my side skirts and front bumper being a few inches lower than stock...Quote:
Originally Posted by screech985