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Another thing i am buying this week is an Oil Scavenge Pump.
Because i am using the stock exhaust manifold, the turbo sits too low for the oil return and the car would smoke on startup from burning excess oil in the turbo that leaked thru the seals.
A good amount has leaked out since it's been sitting for 8 months or so, at 1st i wondered what the hell was all the oil on the downpipe then i figured it was oil that leaked thru the seals over winter. I hope the seals are not damaged!
I've done some research on some scavenge pumps, the best one i found is made by a company called Turbowerx. They offer 2 kinds of pump, a high flow one rated at 3 GPM and their base-model pump at 1.75 GPM. The base model is way more then i need in terms of oil flow and it's the one i am getting.
This pump is made exclusively for this. You can place the turbo anywhere you like, the pump will self prime itself and return the oil anywhere you choose. It's the kind of pump that guys run on those rear mounted setups. A very nice unit indeed!
The nice thing about these pumps is they are gear driven, no diaphrams here, which means the pump can be run completely dry indefinitely! Also they can handle temps as high as 300 degrees F, way more then other pumps!
It's a little pricey at $229 USD but i would rather not go cheap on such an important part.
Here's a little pic of what it looks like:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...avengePump.jpg
In terms of size, they say the pump fits inside a 7.25" x 4" x 4" box and weights less then 5 pounds.
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very cool solution. but i say buy the bigger one, and rip out the oil pump for a full dry sump system. :P
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Haven't been on here in a while, and just saw your thread! Looks good... hmmm those injectors look strangely familiar :) Hope everything works out well this time around.
Something to note regarding the new tuning setup... It is true that for vacuum and off boost driving including cranking/coldstart etc the car will drive like stock and no tuning is required. However acceleration enrichment will still be necessary to tune with the additional injectors especially near the transition into boost because the stock ECU will not give enough fuel as you approach 0-vacuum. This is because even though its 0-vac you still have more air volume flowing than when its NA. Also you will have to add extra fuel and run it on the rich side as boost builds because the ECU only adds enrichment for the stock power level and air flow. What I'm saying is that if you are cruising at 4000+ rpm for example and floor it without proper enrichment tuning it will run mad lean at first and slowly get richer as you rev through. I'm sure you will get the hang of it once you are out driving and street tuning. One other thing to note, without a return fuel system and being able to keep the fuel pressure at a constant above manifold pressure, you can only run so much boost before the injectors won't spray properly. In my case I started having issues around 12 psi or so.
I can't remember if you had done anything for the O2 sensor either... When the car is cruising around in vacuum the O2 sensor is great keeping you in the 14's-15's AFR. But when boost comes on this is definitely not where you want to be.... the O2 feedback system will essentially compensate for your additional fuel by trying to remove what you added to get back to the 14's-15's AFR. I have a box that reads vac/boost and intercepts the O2 signal before it reaches the ECU. During vac conditions, the signal passes through unchanged. During boost the box just feeds the ECU with the 14.5 ish AFR that it wants to see so that it won't try to make adjustments, basically fooling the ECU so that it never knows you are running in the 10s-11s AFR.
I can elaborate even more, don't be afraid to ask...
Also make sure you are using 94 oct gas and I would highly recommend water/meth injection for the added safety.
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BTW heres information on that box I spoke of...
Splitsecond ESC1
ESC1 Narrowband O2 sensor Signal Conditioner
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Thanks man! I found a place to buy it at $185 USD... Crap that box is expensive!
With shipping comes up to around $250. If you know a better place let me know.
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Just did a compression test:
Cylinder 1: 180 psi
Cylinder 2: 60 psi
Cylinder 3: 45 psi
Cylinder 4: 180 psi
Looks like i need a new engine... ughhh
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is that before of after you replaced the head gasket? did you do it right? clean the surfaces and everything? seems like a leak between two cylinders.
before spending the money on a new engine, buy a $40 cylinder leak down tester and see where it is going. might just need a valve or two.
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Test performed after replacing gasket, surfaces were thoroughly cleaned and smoothed out and i didnt see any visible damages to any valves or faults in the cylinder head.
Have to take it appart anyway to get my gasket and studs out, so i will inspect it when i get to that point.
I'm going to call a local engine rebuild shop monday to ask how much it would cost to resurface the head.
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I've been reading up on MLS gaskets online and they require both the head and block to be as smooth as possible.
I just slapped the head back on after cleaning it quickly. I'm going to get it resurfaced and i got some very fine sanding paper at work, im gonna gently pass on the block to remove any imperfections it might have.
I'm pretty sure its just a gasket sealing problem.
Lets hope!! :P
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Very nice thread here.
Your head gasket looks just like the head gasket on my 2.0l 16v (c20xe opel motor).
It looks like you have a leak between cylinder 2 and 3, I would just send the head to an engineering shop and have them skim the head provided it did not warp too bad.
Do you not get a piggy back ecu system? Over here we have what we call "chips", they can be tuned to increase fueling and even read the boost and correct the fueling.
