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    Thread: 2009 Aveo LT AC Problems (not cooling)

    1. #1
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      2009 Aveo LT AC Problems (not cooling)

      Hi,

      I have a 2009 Aveo 5 LT, and it is having AC issues.

      Problem: With the AC on, the air that comes out of the vents is barely cold, with Recirc (AC Button on, Recirc Button on), and the hot/cold selector all the way to cold (the left).

      I have tried refilling the AC system with new coolant, with no resolution. No leaks have been detected.

      With AC off:
      The low side and high side pressure are normal (70low,70high PSI).
      With AC on:
      The low side is high (60-70 PSI).
      The high side is low (100-120 PSI).

      The compressor clutch works normal, and when the AC is on the compressor is running all the time. But, the motor cooling fan is off.

      Does anyone have a diagram of the AC system and the electrical AC schematic?

      Also, does anyone know if the AC in this car has expansion valve or orifice?

      Any help to a resolution is appreciated.



    2. #2
      Senior Member josefb134's Avatar
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      It could be this causing your refrigerant to not compress right in order to cool down. I have no idea though so take it with a grain of salt lol

      AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT

      REMOVAL PROCEDURE

      CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

      Disconnect the negative battery cable.
      Remove the air cleaner housing bolts and the air filter housing assembly.




      Release the connector lock and pull the air conditioning (A/C) pressure transducer wire connector out.
      Hold the line fitting boss with one wrench and remove the A/C pressure transducer with another wrench.
      Discard the O-ring seal.

      INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

      1. Install the new seal on the A/C pressure transducer.

      NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.



      1. Install the A/C pressure transducer.

      Tighten
      Tighten the pressure transducer, using 2 wrenches, to 8 N.m (71 lb in) .



      1. Install the electrical connector.




      1. Install the air cleaner housing bolts and the air filter housing assembly.

      Tighten
      Tighten the air cleaner housing assembly retaining bolts to 12 N.m (106 lb in) .

      Here is another thing you could try.


      HVAC PRELIMINARY CHECKS

      If you suspect a problem in the refrigerant system, inspect for the following conditions:


      1. Inspect the outer surfaces of the radiator and the condenser cores to be sure that the airflow is not blocked by dirt, leaves, or other foreign material. Inspect between the condenser and the radiator, as well as all outer surfaces.
      2. Inspect for restrictions or kinks in the condenser core, the hoses, and the tubes.
      3. Inspect the operation of the blower fan.
      4. Inspect all the air ducts for leaks or restrictions. A low airflow rate may indicate a restricted evaporator core.
      5. Inspect for slippage of the compressor clutch.
      6. Inspect the tension on the serpentine accessory drive belt.

      Insufficient Cooling - Quick Check Procedure
      Perform the following hand-feel procedure to get a quick idea of whether the air conditioning (A/C) system has the proper charge of Refrigerant-134a. The air temperature must be above 21C (70F) for most models.


      1. Warm up engine. Run the engine at idle.
      2. Open the hood and all the doors.
      3. Turn the A/C switch ON.
      4. Set the temperature control to the full cold position.
      5. Set the blower speed switch on 4.
      6. Hand-feel the temperature of the evaporator outlet pipe. The pipe should be cold.
      7. Inspect for other problems. Refer to HVAC Preliminary Checks.
      8. Leak check the system. Refer to Leak Testing. If you find a leak, discharge the system and repair the leak as required. After completing the repair, evacuate and charge the system. See: Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Leak Testing
      9. If there is no leak, refer to Too Hot in Vehicle. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Too Hot In Vehicle

      (scroll down for too hot in vehicle)

      And some more info...


      LEAK TESTING

      Test for leaks whenever you suspect a refrigerant leak in the system. You should also test for leaks whenever you perform a service operation which results in disturbing the lines or the connections. Leaks are commonly found at the refrigerant fittings or at the connections. Leaks are commonly caused by the following problems:


      • Improper torque
      • Damaged O-ring seals
      • Dirt or lint on the O-ring seals

      Liquid Leak Detectors
      Use a liquid leak detector solution on locations such as fittings. Apply the solution to the area in question with the swab that is supplied with the solution. Look for bubbles to appear. This will indicate the existence and location of any leak.

      For areas where this is not practical, such as sections of the evaporator and the condenser, an electronic leak detector is more useful.

      Electronic Leak Detectors
      Follow the manufacturer's instructions for calibration, operation, and maintenance of an electronic leak detector. Battery condition is especially important to the accuracy of a portable model. Set the detector to R-134a before beginning the test.

      IMPORTANT: Electronic leak detectors are sensitive to windshield washing solutions, solvents and cleaners, and certain vehicle adhesives.

      Surfaces must be clean to prevent false readings. Make sure that all surfaces are dry to prevent damage to the detector.

      General Testing Instructions


      • Follow the entire path of the refrigerant system.
      • Completely circle each joint at 25-50 mm (1-2 in) per second .
      • Hold the probe tip within 6 mm (0.25 in) of the surface.
      • Do not block the air intake.

      The audible tone changes from 1-2 clicks per second into a solid alarm if there is a leak. Adjust the balance control to maintain 1-2 clicks per second.

      Test all of the following areas, even after 1 leak has been confirmed:


      • Evaporator inlet and outlet
      • Receiver-drier inlet and outlet
      • Condenser inlet and outlet
      • Brazed and welded areas
      • Damaged areas
      • Hose couplings
      • Compressor rear head
      • All fittings and joints

      Testing Service Ports/Access Valves
      The sealing cap is the primary seal for the service ports. This cap contains a special leak-free O-ring. Make sure that this cap is not missing or loose. Always use the correct cap.

      Testing the Evaporator Core
      Leaks in the evaporator core are difficult to find. Test the evaporator core using the following procedure:


      1. Run the blower fan at speed setting 4 for at least 15 minutes .
      2. Turn the blower to the OFF position.
      3. Wait for 10 minutes .
      4. Remove the blower motor resistor.
      5. Insert the leak detector probe as close as possible to the evaporator core. The detector will indicate a leak with a solid alarm.
      6. Use a flashlight to search for refrigerant oil in the core surface.

      Testing the Compressor Shaft Seal


      1. Blow shop air behind and in front of the compressor clutch/pulley for at least 15 seconds .
      2. Wait 1-2 minutes .
      3. Probe the area in front of the pulley. If the detector emits a solid alarm, there is a leak.





      Here is the Too Hot In Vehicle






      There you go! I don't know if it will help you or not but i hope it will. Good luck with everything!

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    4. #3
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      2009 aveo lt isn't getting cold. Emptied and weighed in 18.4 ounces highside 160 s low side 145 to 150, evacuated for 1 hour.any ideas? Thanks

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      If the low side is staying over 100 lbs, it is either the expansion valve, or the compressor.

      Does the compressor stay running? No bad sound? high side builds pressure from rest? If so, then it is probably the valve.


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      BHR
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      Any follow up on this? I am in the same boat.

      The compressor would engage but no cool air. The refrigerant lines don't feel hot or cold.
      I had 108 low and 110 high with the engine off from overnight.
      With the engine at idle I had a steady 84low and 135 high.
      I added some dye and 12 oz of 134a. With no improvement.


      Does the system need emptied to replace the valve?
      Thanks!

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      I too have thesame problem in my 08 Aveo5 and it just started out of nowhere. One day it was working fine, next day it cutout on my way home & have never worked again....all I get is nothing but HOT air! I have just replaced the cabin filter & that didn't help,except that it was ing. I also just discovered that my lowside is at 100psi with either the A/C on or off & when I release the R134a, all I get is HOT air...at the sametime, when I release it on theHigh-Side I get ice cold R134a. Therefore, to me this means that something is preventing the R134a from circulating within the system.

      Any help isgreatly appreciated
      Last edited by CarNut72; 07-04-2017 at 12:22 PM.

    8. #7
      Still love my daily driver Thymeclock's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BHR View Post
      Any follow up on this? I am in the same boat.

      The compressor would engage but no cool air. The refrigerant lines don't feel hot or cold.
      I had 108 low and 110 high with the engine off from overnight.
      With the engine at idle I had a steady 84low and 135 high.
      I added some dye and 12 oz of 134a. With no improvement.


      Does the system need emptied to replace the valve?
      Thanks!
      My 2009 A/C is also not functioning. I added refrigerant. It didn't help. It's not a leak in the system. I took it to my trusted mechanic. He changed the expansion valve, and that didn't cure it either. The compressor cycles on and off, but it is probably a bad compressor. This repair will be costly and probably not spending $$$ on it.

      IMO, the A/C on these cars is a poorly made POS. It will be the last Chevy product I'll ever buy.





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