How to replace the rear brake shoes (pads)

OK here is the picture tutorial on replacing the pads.

Removing the drums varies. Here is a link to removing the drums off my car 2006 aveo:
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f85/r...06-aveo-16131/

0) New pads and the drums removed. Jacking under the rear axle beam is a good spot to pick the entire rear of the car. Assuming no bleeding needed.

1) Use the pad with the e-brake and flip up the brake lever like so:
Attachment 8090

Using two pliers pull the spring away and the cable towards you, then use the magic of your feet to maneuver the attachment point onto the cable.
Attachment 8091

Rotate the brake pad in place with the e-brake behind the brake pad.
Attachment 8092

Put the retaining pin and spring onto the pad for the e-brake pad.
Attachment 8093

Mount the adjuster with the tooth out and gear towards the front. Pay attention there is LH and RH stamped into the metal. The gear teeth are situated to rotate down towards the outside. Again a picture is worth a thousand words.
Attachment 8094

Mount the bottom spring onto the e-bake pad and onto the front pad. This has to be done at this stage otherwise you will NEVER be able to stretch that spring into place.
Attachment 8095

Rotate the pad into place; the bottom spring will kinda keep it there. Mount the retaining pin and spring.
Attachment 8096

Part II

Now it's time to put the auto adjuster together. I start off with the adjuster at the smallest setting. Later this is useful for putting on the springs. Not the pin just under the adjuster. That is where the tooth grabber goes. (ok, I don't know what else to call it! :-D )
Attachment 8097

Put the tooth grabber onto the pin.
Attachment 8098

Slide the spring clip thingy onto the pin and the top hole.
Attachment 8099

Place the top spring onto the spring clip thingy and the e-brake pad.
Attachment 8100

Place the adjuster spring onto the tooth grabber and bottom hole of the front pad.
Attachment 8101

Before doing anything else. Back off the adjuster in the e-brake in the cabin.
Attachment 8103

Move the adjuster downwards until you have a couple of threads showing. Remember to test fit the hub onto your assembly. You want to get it where the wheel just barely moves.
Attachment 8102

Button up everything and enjoy!

I almost forgot something. I just took the pictures of wrote up the instructions. I want to thank other members with their golden nuggets of advice from other threads. After all this forum succeeds because we work together as a collective.

Very nice write-up and pictures. Thanks for putting the time and effort into posting this information. I'm sure it will help others in the future :thumbup:

Xintersecty,
Thanks very much for posing and gathering all of this valuable information and taking such amazing pictures.
As it turns out, the timing couldn’t be better for me, I will be changing my original brakes shoes and leaking wheel cylinders this weekend.
Your efforts are so very much appreciated!
I have a question however, does the adjustment to the parking brake need to be performed? Did you discover that it was a must before proceeding?

Here’s my logic, I’m sure my car’sparking brake has never been adjusted and with new shoes installed would the slack be picked up by virtue of the new shoes? Would the cable have stretch that much to merit this additional step?
Please don’t take my inquisitiveness as questioning your technique, I simply do not know:confused: and would like to hear your input since you have more experience.

Thanks again for your help!

I looked at the adjustment for the parking brake at the handle. It really did not need much adjustment. So that got left alone.

Thanks again for your support andlighting quick response, may you have fantastic day!!:occasion5:

This is going to be useful, my Aveo certainly will need this done soon (along with the front too) as I am nearly at 100,000 miles with brakes having been done only once (or so it seems), still brakes fine!

Thanks.

I did this today on my 07 aveo sedan! I have one more tip for u:

Use a LARGE C Clamp to hold the brake shoe up while you put the retainingcup, pin, and spring together.
This is VERY helpful on both shoes as they like to move around as you only have 2 hands to work with!

Thanks again for the pics ans instructions!!

I agree with John. I did rear shoes a few days ago and used a c clamp as well.

Also, if you are replacing wheel cylinders the lines will come out without damage if you have patience. It took me about a day per wheel cylinder/shoe, but I didn't want to chase lines up to the front of the car knowing my luck, so it had to come out at the fitting. It probably would have been smarter to work at both lines in the same day, but it was too cold.

Basically what I did at first was spray the fittings with Kroil (or PB) and let it sit overnight. Then on each side I pulled the bleeder out with a six point socket and got on the fitting with Irwin 4LW Vise Grip pliers. Slowly work the fitting back and forth. Maybe a few light/medium taps here and there with a rubber mallet. Then occasionally I would switch to the flare nut wrench, just to maybe give it a little different force. The pliers/wrench will slide on the nut slightly, but if you're gentle it will not round the nut. Continue to spray the lubricant on the fitting. I wasn't having luck the first day, so again I let it sit overnight with the Kroil on it. This may have been the key. Put the bleeder back in obviously. The next day I again worked with the Vise Grips until at some point I felt the fitting tighten. This is the important here, the line tightened first, I doubt it would have loosened first. Then once it tightened I got the flare nut wrench on the line, soaked it with Kroil, and worked the fitting back and forth until it came free. Both flare nuts had a little bit of rounding damage from the force, they won't come out perfect, but still were square enough to loosen and tighten the fittings without issue. If they need to come out again in 100k miles then the lines will have to come out anyways. I hit them with black spray paint because the protective covering was starting to peel in places.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by john_johnson

Use a LARGE C Clamp to hold the brake shoe up while you put the retainingcup, pin, and spring together. This is VERY helpful on both shoes as they like to move around as you only have 2 hands to work with!

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Thanks for that tidbit. I will use a C-Clamp to hold the shoes in place.

I have the driver side drum off again because it doesn't seem to be self adjusting like the passenger side. I noticed that the adjustment lever or "tooth grabber" doesn't seem to be touching the star wheel at all on this side. Everything is brand new.

For example on the passenger side when I manually adjust the brakes I can hear and feel the "click click click" noise as that little lever slaps against the star wheel as I turn it. It also prevents me from rotating the star wheel to bring the shoes closer together unless I pry the level out a little with another screwdriver. I assume this is normal operation.

The driver side does not do this at all. I can rotate the star wheel freely in both directions and the little lever doesn't touch the wheel. I tried moving the spring that connects that lever to the brake shoe facing inside and outside and the result is the same. I have the proper kits on each side (one was marked with an L and the other an R). It's almost like I just need to bend that little lever a little more inwards and it would work fine. Any thoughts?

BEND IT. Sometimes you just to need to warp things yourself. It sounds like you made the correct assessment. Pictures are always helpful

You're going to laugh at this, but I went to bend the little lever and the damn thing snapped in half. Anyways, got it replaced and the new one is fine. Must have been defective from the start.