front strut mount replacement

I had bought these parts a long time ago and never got around to replacing them, because apparently they were worn out and had a part to play in the creaky suspension noise.

So I finally got around to doing that. This is what it looked like before:

http://i43.tinypic.com/izrrqf.jpg
If you look under the hood, at the upper corners on each side you'll see these, it's at the top of the strut assembly

the parts to be changed
http://i39.tinypic.com/2hi3v9y.jpg

the wheel taken off
http://i40.tinypic.com/a57ujl.jpg
that skinny bar to the left of the shock connects the stabilizer bar to the shock. we werent able to get that off without breaking it off, so that was replaced too.

a better shot of that skinny bar
http://i43.tinypic.com/e9g934.jpg

and off it comes ...
http://i42.tinypic.com/110aydf.jpg

undo everything else
http://i40.tinypic.com/256s8t1.jpg

then the whole shock assembly piece comes out, and you see an empty hole!
http://i42.tinypic.com/dqj6rt.jpg

you can see into the wheel well with the shock stuff removed
http://i40.tinypic.com/xkps41.jpg

what we used to squish that spring
http://i41.tinypic.com/2dvrdq1.jpg

those being put on the spring
http://i39.tinypic.com/2lxi9uo.jpg

the new skinny bar and the shock assembly put back into place
http://i41.tinypic.com/25oyt5i.jpg

what it looks like from under the hood after new parts put in
http://i43.tinypic.com/n6qlqp.jpg

took a little while, most of it done by my dad who was helping me. i've now ordered my timing belt kit and water pump, so i will try to take some (hopefully better) pics of that when it goes down.

it does seem to make a bit less suspension noise but it's not completely gone. it does sound like the remaining noise comes more from the back though. in terms of handling, it feels more or less the same, there could be a very slight change though.

to be honest, it wasn't really worth the work. would have been better to just replace the entire shock/spring while i was at it, but that will have to wait for another time at this point.

None of the pics work.

Wow, that's messed up. I was able to view them a second ago now they aren't working. Will try to fix...,

edit: I tried using a different site, the pics should work now

The skinny bar=sway bar link, and those things=spring compression tools. :D

Much better with pics. :)

So, did this fix the clunking noise you had?

I've seen a kit like that offered when I was getting my KYBs, but didn't know what I needed it for (my car only has under 30k on it), so I decided against it. Plus all the parts looked fine when I was replacing struts/shocks.

Was it just creaking, or were the front struts clunking over bumps?

This is like blast from the past: common problem on VW Rabbits was worn strut bearing plates clunking/rattling over bumps. I had to change a few.

the upper mounts on these are very identical to vr6 mk3 mounts..

floating front suspensions makes lots of noises when the upper mounts wear out..

Well, I got my front mount kit today and I installed it on one side. There is STILL A GAP (although less) when I lower the car... Not happy. I'm wondering if the mount kit is the problem or what.

there should be a slight gap. otherwise the upper cap will be metal on metal and making noise.

the rubber in the mount flexes with age and you hear either the upper cap or the spring cup hitting the strut tower,

In this case, the upper cap has rubber bonded bottom side. I would think that it is supposed tighten down and seat on the body like in the last pic of the first post.

Here is a pic that shows the rubber better. This is the old parts. The new parts leave maybe half the gap.

It'd be nice if someone else with the same car would sneak a peek at theirs and let you know.

what is that tightened onto? you can barely make out something in there that you are tightened down on to..

That is a nut that holds the bottom cap on.. The top cap seats on that nut once the top cap nut is tightened down. You can see it in this picture.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2lxi9uo.jpg

You got some rust going on there too.... salt on the roads sucks... :D (I'm not sure how it makes it's way under the hood though) ;)

try reversing your nuts.. :lol: try that in a google image search..


the one your using in the cup that goes on first is too tall. not sure if you have the correct ones or not, i am going from memory. but i dont recall the first nut sticking out about the rubber mount like that.

Its not that either. I used the thinner nut to hold on the bottom cup. It has a special step in it to seat properly on the bearing that goes up into the lower cup. The thicker nut is also very thick.

Do you agree that the upper cup should seat firmly against the shock tower though? I'm not familiar with this type of suspension. If its not tight, what stops it from slopping all around? I imagine thats where we get our noise from. It would also mess up the camber a bit too.

The rubber top of the strut mount acts as part of the suspension. If you leave the metal on metal it will eventually seize up and become a pain to remove next time. Also try the kyb strut mount the bearing that comes with it isn't plastic and looks like it will last forever.

yes on the aveo it does appear that the upper cup does "pinch" the tower. on vws though that is not the case.

the weight of the car and design hold the rubber in place..

Hello I just purchased 2 struts from Monroe 72295 and 72296 do i need to have a strut mount kit to go with it. This is my first time.
Thanks

You don't *need* it, but if you've blown your struts, you've probably worn the mounts out.

for the price, i would just do it..

Hello just geting ready to install struts for the first time do you loosen the nut up top and do you have to put a jack under the wheel to loosen the pressure thanks

put the car in the air with the suspension hanging.. take off the wheel. take of the sway bar endlink from the tab on the strut, undo the two spindle bolts. and pull the knuckle out of the strut..

then go to the strut tower, and undo the top center bolt, while reaching in the wheel well to hold the strut up (so it doesn't fall out)

the strut is out, the compress or tie the spring, and take the next top nut off to remove the mount and spring, and interchange install in reverse order.

I found this thread, having experienced the same strut mount "gap" issue that started this thread. We had failed struts (leaking oil badly), and the gap problem was much more pronounced after replacement. I ordered the Monroe strut mount kit, and I'll know later this week if that corrects the issue. Thanks for posting on this.

I would like to point out that one of the reasons the Aveo's have such noisy front suspension is the metal-to-metal contact between the springs and the struts. I've seen other vehicles that include lower spring cushions (rubber rings) to go between these surfaces, to reduce the noise.

Centerlock Pillowball Upper Mount New Product Release English page CUSCO
ideas anyone? i'm thinking this would be a great upgrade for our floating mounts.

You realize that the pillow ball mount will cost more than the strut assembly, right?

They're great mounts if you're a factory rally team, but hardly practical for daily use.

Fyi 30000 yen is nearly 400 usd.

I realize this is a old thread, but I just replaced a strut today and wanted to post some info on how you can take the sway bar link off without trashing it.

What makes this operation tough is that the link does not have a hex head on the back side for which to latch onto, meaning that when you attempt to turn the nut, it will simply spin the bolt along with it. However, both bolts that attach the link have a hex-shaped neck at the base of the thread. I found it easiest to detach from the strut end, instead of the sway bar. Take a 15mm crescent wrench and wedge it behind the sway bar link, but in front of the rubber bushing. It'll take a little work to get in there, but you'll feel when it seats onto the hex-shaped part.

Once it's seated, take your ratchet wrench and equip it with a 17mm socket, putting it over the nut. With everything in place, push your ratchet CCW and pull your wrench in the opposite direction. It will take some work to free the nut, but it beats having to cut the whole thing off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by biofueln

I found this thread, having experienced the same strut mount "gap" issue that started this thread. We had failed struts (leaking oil badly), and the gap problem was much more pronounced after replacement. I ordered the Monroe strut mount kit, and I'll know later this week if that corrects the issue. Thanks for posting on this.

I would like to point out that one of the reasons the Aveo's have such noisy front suspension is the metal-to-metal contact between the springs and the struts. I've seen other vehicles that include lower spring cushions (rubber rings) to go between these surfaces, to reduce the noise.

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I know this is old, but did you finally replaced the strut mount, and when you did, did you still have the gap. I just installed new strut and strut mount, but i have the same gap issue i had with the old mounts with the new monroe mounts i installed. I'm trying to find out if there's suppose to be a gap, or i need to reinstall.

thanks

When I replaced mine there was still a gap.

Anyone know of a aftermarket maker of the rubber part of the mounts, the VW folks have a better rubber than, KYB or monroe.

I know it is an old thread, but it was a great guide for me today. Took me about 6 hrs w/cleanup/setup. The actual replacement took about 4 to do the first one and <1 for the second.

Most of my time was spent trying to get the stinking top mount nut off. I could not just turn it as the strut shaft just rotated, so I had to use a 1/2" mount 19mm Socket in a vice-grip and then a 9mm deep socket through the 1/2" hole. What a pain.

Thanks much for the tutorial!

Could the Monroe 72295 and 72296 be the defective struts that cause the large gap?

I also have a gap and was wondering about it .
If nothing else I am going to install rubber mat or something under spring. I have planned to replace wheel bearings in front to see if that will make it quieter for driving long distance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by marketwatcher

I also have a gap and was wondering about it .
If nothing else I am going to install rubber mat or something under spring. I have planned to replace wheel bearings in front to see if that will make it quieter for driving long distance.

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I’ve seen loaded struts built with the mount installed upside down.
https://youtu.be/8bOfDpea1EY

Just buy the quick struts from RockAuto. Front struts and rear shocks cost $300 or so. And just buyt the rear shock mounts for $40 to save yourself the hassle of getting off the top nut.