Replacing struts and shocks

[snrusnak]

2004 aveo...

We've had a strange noise related to the wheel rotation lately, I though maybe wheel bearings or cv axles, but the shop that looked at it(free ) said it is due to the worn out struts(120,000 miles) causing tire cupping. So I bought brand new struts and rear shocks(gabriel) and strut mounting kit(duralast) from autozone for just over $300!!! I thought that was crazy cheap.

My question is this, I've watched someone do struts before a long time ago. I know I need to unbolt the struts from the spindle, disconnect anything else that may be attached(sway bar, etc), and unbolt the bolt on the strut tower, then gently take it apart/lower it down. Then use my spring compressor to hold the spring while I take the top of the strut apart, and move it to the new strut, etc.

Is there anything else I need to know? I know after done I will likely need an alignment, already planning on that. Just looking for any tips before I get into it...

Thanks!

[Aveo5_boy]

I know this is a cheap easy reply but there are numerous youtube how to's on shock replacements that you can refer to before you start the job.

[AveoJoe]

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/f...acement-10311/

[snrusnak]

Thanks. I just finished actually. Did the front struts and rear shocks took about 4 hours. My strut spring compressing tool got stuck/jambed some how and that sucked. Took me like 30-45 minutes to get it off then I had to go to autozone for a loaner tool. Pretty easy and straight forward job. We still have that slight clunk noise but I've already learned to live with that, the reason I wanted to replace them was because the worn out struts were causing tire cupping. I can tell it's much firmer though. I pushed all the old struts and shocks in and they didn't rebound at all, just stayed compressed.

[snrusnak]

I took a bunch of pics and will do a write up with pics later sometime. I know it's already been done but more info can't hurt, right...

[petrified.rabbit]

the clunking noise is most likely the sway bar / bushings. /but check the a arm bushings as well. (i would hope those are the only things not tested by the shop).

[snrusnak]

The sway bar end links seemed nice and tight. Not saying that's not it just doesn't seem like it. The other bushings and all seem fine. I'm not worried about it, everything is tight and it is all fine, just a little noise, no big deal...

[snrusnak]

Ok so a quick write up. Most of it is pretty easy, with a couple VERY important steps.

Parking brake engaged, in gear, block wheels, etc(be safe), lift car with jack and remove front tire/wheel. Back up the jack with a stand.

Disconnect sway bar end link from strut(IIRC you need a 15mm wrench behind and a 17mm socket in front):



Disconnect the brake line from the strut(it just pushes out).

Place a second jack under the control arm/spindle to hold it up once you disconnect the strut. I was extra cautious and put a piece of 2x4 in front of the rotor as well to keep it from falling forward. Disconnect the two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle(17mm bolt head and nut):





Remove the plastic cap on top of the strut top. Remove the top strut nut by holding the piston rod with a small socket(can't remember the size) and turning the nut with either a wrench or a pass through type socket/ratchet(IIRC it was a 19mm):



As you remove this nut hold the strut so it doesn't fall out.

That's all there is to removing the strut....

Will post the rest in additional posts to follow.

[snrusnak]

Compress the spring with a strut coil spring compressor tool(can loan from autozone). I actually had one(from harbor freight) but it got stuck for some reason and I had to cut it off so during the job I had to go get the loaner from autozone. The loaner from autozone(brand was OEM) was much better than mine:



^in this picture the spring is not completely compressed. I only hooked 3 coils. Do not take the strut apart with spring pressure still there, it is very dangerous. Notice in this next photo I have the spring compressed to where it isn't putting pressure on the top plate(notice I now hooked 4 coils):



So once the spring is compressed hold the strut piston rod with the small socket again and use a wrench to take off the nut that holds the top plate onto the strut(reusing a photo ):



MAKE NOTE OF THE ORIENTATION OF ALL THE PARTS YOU REMOVE. It is important to put them back on in the same orientation that they came off.

I bought new strut mounting kits and recommend not reusing the old parts. I did reuse the "dust cover", the metal upper plate, and the bump stop.

New vs old:



The parts slide onto the strut in this order(basically as shown, I'm going from memory but pretty sure I have it right. Just pay attention to how it comes apart though):

Bump stop
Spring
Dust cover
Top metal plate
New rubber mount/bushing(two pieces)
Washer
Nut(I chose to reuse the old one with some blue thread lock in lieu of using the new one that looked different.)

When you reassemble the new strut you need to make sure you have the spring and top metal plate oriented correctly. Align the spring so it's seated correctly in the lower cup:



Then loosely assemble the rest and make sure you align the top metal plate to the spring correctly(I was able to use the old imprint in the rubber to see how it went):





Then tighten the nut down.:



Remove spring compressor and you should have this:



Double check that the spring is oriented correctly and everything looks correct.

[snrusnak]

Now to install the strut.

push the strut back up into the strut tower. Place the new upper plate thing(sorry don't know the name) over the stem and loosely snug up the nut that holds it on:



Align the lower bolts that hold the strut to the spindle and slide the bolts on and loosely snug the nuts just to hold it all in place.

Tighten down the upper nut while holding the piston rod stem. Same photo as this:



Tighten the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. Same photo as this:



Slide the brake line back in place.

Reattach the sway bar end link and tighten. Same photo as this:



That's pretty much it, you end up with this:



And the top should look like this:



Double and triple check everything. You might also need an alignment after wards, we did.