07 200k miles
Braking at speeds over 40mph make the steering wheel turn to the left.
New control arm bushings, ball joints, away bar links, brake lines, calipers, and an alignment. Breaking at any speed but especially at 40mph and above the wheel turns to the left pulling the car to the left.
The harder we brake the harder it turns. We can counter steer to straighten the car and straighten the wheel at a dead stop.
I would suspect the master cylinder provided everything you did was checked for proper operation.
Usually if you brake, and the car pulls the opposite caliper isn't working.. so the right side caliper should be checked.
you can take it out, and put something like a neoprene wedge in there.. and had someone slight press the brake pedal to see if the caliper is closing. However, since you have already replaced that caliper, I would assume it is working and was bled properly.
It could also be the flexible line on the brake allowing the lack of pressure build.
It could also be a rear brake, but since the drums are so weak they are unlikely to cause the steering wheel to turn with the car.
I drove a 66 VW bus that only had a rear right brake.. I only found that out after hitting the brakes and doing an odd series of donut spinouts in traffic.. luckily I didn't hit anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
We changed the flexible cables and we wonder about the back breaks, but aren't sure because she had them done by a third party a few years ago.
We will change the cylinder.
Replacing a master cylinder is a "big" job as far as brakes are concerned. I would double check all your other work and the brakes before pulling the main part of the system out. Since you would need to bleed all the brakes and such anyhow, do a check before hand while you have the wheels off.
I always post on here and forget about level of experience that people may or may not have. When did the car start pulling? With the list of things you fixed, are you confident in those repairs? alignment?
Hey brother. Thanks for responding, I've done many big projects like new timing chain on my mini Cooper, clutch pad of the mini, lifting and engine outta mustang, bleeding breaks, I'm sure that we did the breaks right, we went till the fluid was clear without bubbles and then some.Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
The problem is the exact same as before we swapped parts.
What's the "big" part of the master cylinder.
[hey guys. I'm about to replace this master cylinder.
How do I do it?
I saw some videos from Scotty killmer but wanted extra information.
Also the part we got from rock auto has an extra spicket that seems like an over flowport. I'm gonna just plug it because the rest seems the same.
A sticking or stuck caliper can cause a steering wheel drag as well, especially when braking. Some of the bad ones I've seen, it'll cause a constant pull and pull worse when braking, but there are times where it won't pull one way or the other until you brake. Usually the way your wheel pulls is the sticking caliper. Replace the front caliper, bleed it and run it again. You should be golden.