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    Thread: lower control arm torque specs? DIY replacement instructions?

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      lower control arm torque specs? DIY replacement instructions?

      hi guys, been awhile. going to be replacing my daughters right and left lower control arms. does anyone have the instructions and torque specs for the bolts and ball joint.think i can do as looks straight forward but cant find the torque specs,also read need to raise tranny to remove drivers bolt .



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      There are a bunch of older threads of control arm replacements. Have you searched through them? (Search box, upper right of every page.)

      EG. I just searched for "control arm":

      http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/googl...1122j166678j11

      And this thread (and several others) came up...

      Thread: Control arm swap - with pics - 'project Orange roadkill'

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      Depending on the year and age of this Aveo, you will most likely need to cut out both rear bolts. On my '05 (rustbelt like yours), the bolt was not turning with a 2' breaker bar so I put a 3' pipe on it. It finally started to turn just a bit, but I knew something was wrong. I discovered that the bolt had seized to the bushing sleeve, so at that point just cut it out of the K frame. A sawzall with a 4" blade fits into the upper and lower slots of the control arm assembly and works perfectly, and an angle grinder would probably do just as well. Based on how solid the sleeve was seized to the bolt (looking at it afterwards), IMO it would be a far more difficult job to try getting the sleeve free from the bolt while everything is still in place. On the upper portion of the bolt, cut as low as possible in order to leave enough of a bolt stub surface for a vise grip. The front bolts will most likely turn out with no problem.

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      both replace 2 years ago. job looks easy but dont know the torque specs for bolts and ball joint

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      Quote Originally Posted by kvn4 View Post
      both replace 2 years ago. job looks easy but dont know the torque specs for bolts and ball joint
      Both control arms were replaced 2 years ago and something is now bad on both of them? Doesn't sound right to me, unless you drive through craters every day. But anyway the front and back bolts go in at 81 ft lbs, and the castle nut on the ball joint to spindle is 47.

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      my daughter of course says no about bumps and such.we brang in shop that did c arms to do a tie rod and thats what he told us at 200.00 a side and he only warrenties for 1 year.i think control arms are lifetime and he wants to make good profit.cost for me and my son 112.50 for parts and maybe acouple hours to do

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      I put a whole new front suspension in my daewoo before i sold it, same design and part numbers as most of the aveo. It lasted 9 months on the cobblestone streets in winter with the new owner. I was astonished, but he traded it off instead of fixing anything else..


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      I suggest installing whiteline poly bushings. they are expensive but will last a long time. I just had to replace my front lower control arm bushings as they lasted only...gasp 15K miles before they started eating the tires. I finally changed them out at 20K, and a couple of tires look bad.....so probably need new tires as well.

      Whiteline Suspension Parts - Part Number W52401 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner Rear Position
      Whiteline Suspension Parts - Part Number W52400 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner Front Position





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