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    Thread: Control Arm Stuck Bolt, 2010 Aveo 5

    1. #11
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Well the threads of the nut housed in the K frame were destroyed also. It happens when you're trying remove the "front" bolt, and the bolt cannot move forward because of the bushing sleeve, so the bolt chews up the threads. So I ended up putting a lock nut behind the welded nut. I used my rotozip and cut a access hole on the bottom of the frame so I could insert the lock nut. Torqued everything to 81 lbs and went on a test drive.



    2. #12
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      How is the test drive? I have a question - the nut in k-frame of my aveo also has a damaged thread. the shop says they could not disrupt the integrity of the frame (to cut bigger hole to put the nut inside). is it possible to weld the inside side of the nut and then to drill the hole and to thread the nut again? what "rules" are saying about it?
      thank you.
      aveo 2011.
      by the way, where to look for a used k-frame with good nuts in case everything else does not work?

    3. #13
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      Racoon. Are you asking about the horizontal bolt in the front or the vertical bolt in the rear?

    4. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by PalouseAveo View Post
      Racoon. Are you asking about the horizontal bolt in the front or the vertical bolt in the rear?
      Horizontal, in the front bushing of the control arm.
      Anyway, I have already solved this issue - I have found the used sub-frame for 300 cad and installed it. Local mechanics said that with welding I will not pass the safety check.

    5. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by Racoon View Post
      Horizontal, in the front bushing of the control arm.
      Anyway, I have already solved this issue - I have found the used sub-frame for 300 cad and installed it. Local mechanics said that with welding I will not pass the safety check.
      Good to hear you solved the problem.

      I had the same thing happen. I ended up boring the hole and nut out with a 27/64" drill bit, threading it with a spark plug rethreading tap (size M12 x 1.25), and installing a M12 X 1.25 X 15.0mm Time-Sert threaded insert. I can torque it to specifications and it has held so far. However, I was ready to purchase a new subframe if it didn't work.





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