I haven't ordered them yet until I could find out what works and what doesn't. I have been looking at 15x8 with an ET of 38. Hoping that 195 50 15 doesn't rub on the inner fender metal. Funny though, I have had rubbing issues with the 195s on a 15x6 with the MK1's up front that I'm running. I do ride low though, about 3 inches clearance between the member up front and the ground.
Thats the thing, it only rubs on the front passenger side when I go lower than I am now. It is only on the inside of that tire, and it is only against the protruding metal that is part of the fold at the base of the shock tower. I am also not running spacers on the front, just the back. I think it is the offset that I am currently running that could be part of the problem as well, they are an et 38.
Well, I've got my rear coilovers on and am tucking 16x7.5's with a 37 offset. Having some very very slight rubbing issues I need to fix, and need to get the settings on my strut towers ironed out. Right now the car bounces ALL over the road on setting 8 of 19. Probably also partly because the front of the car is still sitting higher on H&R's.
Yep, the rear has to have the inner lip cut out if you are tucking the tires, been there already. I also cut out part of the factory spring perches since they rubbed the sides coilover at times. Our aveo's have a slight rake from the factory. I have found that the geometry has to be level or have a slight rake front to back to fix the bouncing that you are experiencing. I went through a month of suspension adjustments before I found the right geometry to stop most of the bouncing.
This is what I am talking about. Excuse the dirt, the weather here has sucked!!! Check out the back wheels, as the lip had to be cut out in order for them to tuck.
I'm glad I wasn't the only person having bouncing problems, I knew with b&g's I'd be (hopefully) avoiding most if not all of that. xD But I'm not quite sure what you mean, are you saying that the car pretty much has to be level (ie front and back) for it to ride not bouncy? I know with the H&R's before, that it was lowered 1.5 in front and 1.4 in back so maybe they compensated for this as well.
Those rear wheels can be tricky. My tires are stretched a little bit, so I barely just got away without having to get rid of that lip.
EDIT: I googled the rake thing, and I'm glad I did. Man. That kinda sucks, I love how the back tucks right now but I won't be able to get nearly that low in the front to solve the jaw shattering bouncing without hacking my inner fenders up and getting some rolling done. Thanks for the info, though!
Last edited by festersays; 05-09-2013 at 01:21 PM.
Yes I know what you mean. I ended switching up to MK1 coilovers, front to back, and modifying my front spindles. I have four inch shorter shocks and struts. That is how I was finally able to tuck the back and bring the front down. I could actually bring the front down more, but since I drive mine daily, I try to save the scraping to a minimum.
it's interesting to look at how this conversation has evolved. fester what brand / fitment are you running and what spring rate do they have? IS the rear bouncing or is the suspension stiff and it hit bumps? I'm trying to figure out a suggestion to help your ride.
I have mk1 weitec adjustable damping coilovers in the rear, with them almost all the way up i am definitely tucking/lower then most, and they ride pretty good. At least as good as weitecs ride on a mk1 or mk2 vw. (that has always been my comparison for the conversion, is if the coilovers ride as good as the car they were intended for).
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2004 Chevrolet Aveo
Lil' Blue