camber on lowered HR springs

Hey all - for those with the H&R lowering springs, did you need to adjust the camber? I purchased H&R springs and some nice 16 inch wheels, but I want to know before I put it all on there.

I'm mainly just going to be driving in straight lines - this is my daily driver so I don't want be beating it up like a rally car. However, I don't want the car to completely suck at tight turns when I need to make them.

One person in a previous post said he adjusted his camber because his takes corners frequently and noticed outer tire wear..... I suppose I'm asking if the choice to get them or not comes down to driving habit or necessity.

Thanks!

It's always a good idea to check your alignment after any major suspension work but it's not necessary with the setup on the Aveo. The rear isn't adjustable and the front camber is adjusted by the lower control arm so removing the strut shouldn't affect it.

cant beat it for $20...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Ac ... ht_500wt_0

camber adjustment effects you more in the straight than on the turn.

mot cars lean the tire a little in turns anyhow cause wear on the edges, but when you drive straight having too much camber means you are always riding on the edges. adjusting it to be back in spec puts you closer to riding on the center of the tread again.

ok, i'm just gonna buy the adjusting bolts since it's such a cheap thing, my brain is fried from reading different opinions :)

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Originally Posted by xdmitrix420

ok, i'm just gonna buy the adjusting bolts since it's such a cheap thing, my brain is fried from reading different opinions :)

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its simple. even if most of the adjustment is in the control (haven't looked yet) when you put a lowering spring on the car it raises the control arm in relation to the car. since the arm swings on its mount it has a circular arc where it meets the spindle. so when you lower the car the bottom of the spindle is moved in or out depending on where in the arc it normally sits. if you do not move the top of the spindle to compensate for the new angle the control arm sits your alignment will be off. there may be enough adjustment in the ball joint to compensate for it also. but most likely that would mean pulling it inward. the further inward you need to go the more wear you will experience in your cv joint. where as if you put a camber adjustable bolt in the strut bolts. and "tip" the top of the spindle out to match the new ball joint location then you basically tilted it for tire wear but did not move the plane where the spindle sits on the original axis.

(wish i had a picture)

Found one basic but it shows the angle change of the control arm so you can see why the spindle needs moved out at the top..
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_rollcenter.jpg

I just read what you said about 20 times, and I understand what you're saying now. I ordered the gravanatuning camber bolts, so I'll be sure to put them in. Will most suspension shops know how to adjust and fine-tune the bolt position?

Any half-decent mechanic can use an alignment machine, shouldn't be a problem to find someone to do it.