Brake Trouble

[xintersecty]

Sorry, the e-brake does engaged but at the max pull of the lever.

You need to fix the hydraulics. If you still have stuff leaking out of ANY of the cylinders, then you don't have a good foundation. OK, I put up a link showing the how to assemble the rear brakes properly: http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/h...es-pads-16262/

Go through and check and make sure that the brake adjuster and the pads are assemble properly. Once you have a properly assembled assembly AND a working and bleed brake hydraulics, then you can adjust the rear brakes by going backwards and tapping the brakes.

As to why? Here is a tutorial on how brakes work: How Brakes Work - HowStuffWorks

When you wheel does not spin freely (car transmission in neutral) then there is something wrong with the brake/rotor.

[rgansaldi]

You need to fix the hydraulics. If you still have stuff leaking out of ANY of the cylinders, then you don't have a good foundation. OK, I put up a link showing the how to assemble the rear brakes properly: http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/h...es-pads-16262/

Go through and check and make sure that the brake adjuster and the pads are assemble properly. Once you have a properly assembled assembly AND a working and bleed brake hydraulics, then you can adjust the rear brakes by going backwards and tapping the brakes.

As to why? Here is a tutorial on how brakes work: How Brakes Work - HowStuffWorks

When you wheel does not spin freely (car transmission in neutral) then there is something wrong with the brake/rotor.

Damn it, I've been waiting for your response all afternoon. Didn't see there was a second page. I'm pretty sure my cylinder is good, I'm going to bleed the brakes and check it again, then adjust by going in reverse and braking.

I will post again here with my results.

[rgansaldi]

Readjusting the brakes in reverse solved my e-brake problem. Still waiting on getting money to buy the brake fluid.

[petrified.rabbit]

I haven't chimed in here because you have had a good guide. But if your front rotor issues might me a sign that the caliper is hanging up. (Since you mention needed to get money just to buy the fluid i figure you probably don't have the money to waste).

Try pulling the caliper off and putting it on a block of wood. (needs to be about the width of the rotor and two pads). Then have someone press and release the breaks a few times. Each time see if the caliper releases, see if you can push the piston back in, might need a caliper piston compressor tool if it is "tight" which isn't abnormal. But if you can't get it to go it, or it is hung up, you probably won't be able to easily get it removed to check it anyhow. But sometimes, pressing the brakes and compressing the piston a few times might free up the caliper versus buying a new one. I would do this, then bleed them.

[xintersecty]

I haven't chimed in here because you have had a good guide. But if your front rotor issues might me a sign that the caliper is hanging up. (Since you mention needed to get money just to buy the fluid i figure you probably don't have the money to waste).

Try pulling the caliper off and putting it on a block of wood. (needs to be about the width of the rotor and two pads). Then have someone press and release the breaks a few times. Each time see if the caliper releases, see if you can push the piston back in, might need a caliper piston compressor tool if it is "tight" which isn't abnormal. But if you can't get it to go it, or it is hung up, you probably won't be able to easily get it removed to check it anyhow. But sometimes, pressing the brakes and compressing the piston a few times might free up the caliper versus buying a new one. I would do this, then bleed them.

I learned something new from you each time Rabbit. A hanging caliper is a good bit. I have been fortunate I never had that issue. Now on my truck I have the brakes get stuck on when I release the e-brake. I usually use a channel lock to squeeze the calipers back.

[rgansaldi]

I haven't chimed in here because you have had a good guide. But if your front rotor issues might me a sign that the caliper is hanging up. (Since you mention needed to get money just to buy the fluid i figure you probably don't have the money to waste).

Try pulling the caliper off and putting it on a block of wood. (needs to be about the width of the rotor and two pads). Then have someone press and release the breaks a few times. Each time see if the caliper releases, see if you can push the piston back in, might need a caliper piston compressor tool if it is "tight" which isn't abnormal. But if you can't get it to go it, or it is hung up, you probably won't be able to easily get it removed to check it anyhow. But sometimes, pressing the brakes and compressing the piston a few times might free up the caliper versus buying a new one. I would do this, then bleed them.

You are correct there, Rabbit! Can't spare a square. Could you provide more details on the pistons of the calipers? Pushing them back in should correct the problem, permanently? How does using a piston compression tool kit solve it being tight? I don't understand how pushing it in keeps it from staying out again.

[rgansaldi]

Thank you both for your concerns.

[petrified.rabbit]

the piston uses fluid to travel out, and release of pressure lets it slide back in, nothing forces it back in. the pistons mostly go out and not back in as the brake pads wear.

if the brakes are constantly low and fluid starts to break down, the wall of the cylinder could get stuck with build up, and the piston will not retract. this keeps pressure on the brakes creating wear and heat.

Running the pistons back the to "new pad position" so to speak or all the way in will run over any build up, and then going back and forth "forcing" the piston over the cylinder wall can clean these build up ridges.

it could make the caliper unstuck. It works sometimes, most of the time we buy new calipers. Bleeding the brakes when you are done gets the gunk out of the caliper.

[rgansaldi]

the piston uses fluid to travel out, and release of pressure lets it slide back in, nothing forces it back in. the pistons mostly go out and not back in as the brake pads wear.

if the brakes are constantly low and fluid starts to break down, the wall of the cylinder could get stuck with build up, and the piston will not retract. this keeps pressure on the brakes creating wear and heat.

Running the pistons back the to "new pad position" so to speak or all the way in will run over any build up, and then going back and forth "forcing" the piston over the cylinder wall can clean these build up ridges.

it could make the caliper unstuck. It works sometimes, most of the time we buy new calipers. Bleeding the brakes when you are done gets the gunk out of the caliper.

Forgive me, the "new pad position"? Using the piston compression tool?

[rgansaldi]

Also, how can I tell if my rotor is warped? (I hope this isn't the case)