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Looking into installing remote start on my 2010 Aveo. I'm interested in the Directed (DEI) remote starters. And from research it looks like Xpresskit's PKUAVEO kit (for 2009 to 2011) is the ideal bypass to use with a Viper/Clifford/Python/etc.
I couldn't find much info on this on my favorite forum here. So I thought I'd ask if anyone had any experience or thoughts on this combo.
Or for that matter, is there a better, or simpler remote start/bypass combo out there?
you may not need the PKUAVEO bypass. you can find out by checking if your key has a transponder chip in it.(try and get a duplicate made at walmart)
Compustar makes good stuff that'd be the only other brand I'd go with for quality and looks. Viper/Clifford/Python are great products and practically all the same other than look and color.
Going with any of those will be a good choice, you will just have to decide what you want the starter to do.
I.E. : 1-way, 2-way, 1-button remote, 5-button remote, LED/screen remote.
If you do not need a transponder bypass just build a start interface with relays and resistors. If you need a transponder bypass there are better options from other company's that will interface, locks, tach, start, brake input, ect. There are even ones that can be programmed for the dei direct plug in. I was going to use this option but I have a base model with no power features so I just made a start interface.
Aveos DO NOT have transponder keys. I have cut quite a few, myself included
UPDATE!!! After almost an entire year (my son was born 4 days after I started this thread), I finally completed the install in my 2010 Aveo.
I used an Avital 4103LX, which is DEI brand, Viper, Clifford, Python, etc. About $45 on Amazon. And I used a PKUAVEO bypass, which was another $50 or so.
It's possible that only Canadians need to use the bypass, I'm not sure. But I thought I'd pass on a couple pics and if anyone has any questions, ask away.
The first pic is of the PKUAVEO's wiring, and how it works with the remote starter. The second pic is the immobilizer module that slips over the ignition tumbler. I thought it was funny that on it, it said "Daewoo", made in Korea, for my Canadian market Aveo, built in Mexico. Anyway, third and fourth pics are of the green ignition switch harness where most of the magic needs to happen.
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Took 10 to 12 hours or so over 2 consecutive mornings/afternoons. It was only my 2nd remote starter install, so a good chunk of that time was spent scratching my head on what I had screwed up. Turns out, the one wire I just took for granted and assumed I was right on, was the hoodpin. I had temporarily grounded it thinking it needed to see ground to simulate the hood being closed so it could operate. Feeling pretty dejected in the afternoon of day 1, I posted to the12volt.com with all my wiring, and that night it was pointed out, that when the hood is up, it's grounded, and that's why I was getting no life out of the darn thing. Sure enough, removed the hoodpin wire from the ground, and it sprang to life. Duh, rookie mistake. The only wire you actually need to run to the engine bay, is the hoodpin. (Which is now all hooked up and functional.)
Couple other things of note. I was trying to run the antenna loop in way more complicated ways then need be. (under the immoblizer, etc). The simplest way, was the best way. Just as close to the end of the tumbler as possible, even slightly over the immoblizer ring. It fits just behind the plastic steering column cover as it goes over the tumbler. Also, to get the steering column cover off, besides the 3 obvious screws underneath, there's also 2 more screws that face the driver that are hidden behind the steering wheel. You'll need to turn the steering wheel once each way to access the screws. This is also a good tip if you're adding cruise control to your Aveo. It seems obvious now, but I struggled to get the cover off when I added cruise, so I just said screw it and left it on. Didn't see that there was 2 more screws that needed to come out.
There's a ton of info out there on the interwebs, like the wire colors/locations, etc. Just need a little courage to start splicing into your cars wires and a good back to be working up in awkward spots at times. Hope this helps anyone else giving this a shot.
I'm putting together the same set-up in my car. Could you share more about what wires you need and any wire diagrams that I could use.
Here you go! If you come across any issues, just ask.
➢ Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/
BLACK
FACTORY ALARM DISARM
H1/2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT
H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/8 BLACK GROUND -------------------------------------grounded
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH
➢ 4-pin satellite harness diagram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT ------------------wired to the "(-) while running" on PKUAVEO
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT
➢ Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT ------------wired to 'ignition' on the ignition harness
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT ----------wired to 'accessory' on the ignition harness
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT ------------------wired to constant power
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT -----------------wired to constant power
➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT
➢ Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram
H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT -------------- grounded
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE --------------wired to blue wire in 11pin plug/drivers kick panel
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE ------------------either connect to the hoodpin (and put hood down), or TEMPORARILY LEAVE DISCONNECTED
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
Thanks, your the best. I get the bypass on Thursday. I'll let you know if I have any questions.
No problem. And just to add, obviously you can also hook up horn, door locks, and lights, but above is the list to get the remote start function going.
i've been struggling with this install for over a year now. I cannot find a place to connect the pkuaveo bypass to a negative while running. every connection i try is a constant negative and with a constant negative the engine starts, but will not shut off even when i step on the brake or hit the stop button. where did you find the negative while running connection?
So I just went to my box of instructions/manuals... I remember this being something I had to google. As you can see in the pic my remote starter built by Directed Electronics has a "(-) status output". That's what I used.
I just can't find a ground when running
What remote starter are you using?
Bulldog rs82
Looks like there's more then one RS82 variation out there. Just so I know which you have, do you have a "11 pin harness" or a "9 pin harness" on your remotes start?
I have the 9 pin unit there are also 2 tabs to the right of the 9 pin
Well Number 6, Yellow/Black should most definitely be your wire.
I know which one it is on the unit, I don't know where to connect it on the car
the problem is the pkuaveo module. I don't know where to find a "ground while running" on the car.
The car's wiring isn't involved in this connection. Take a look at the very first pic I posted on page 1. Just take the yellow/black wire from the rs82 and connect it to the "(-) while running" wire on the Pkuaveo. That's it.
Whats happening is that the rs82 sends a ground signal to the pku which brings the pku to life for the duration of the remote start.
Thanks, I'll try that
What is this connector connected to? red/white, yellow, black, green. It's in your pic. but i can't tell what it goes to.
Attachment 12431
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Originally Posted by PoisonIvy