Amp, Sub, and Capacitor Placement

I am going to install a Pioneer Premier 740w, a 12" Polk MM, and a 2.4 farad capacitor. I'm trying to conserve space by using a truck box I already had.

I'm not sure whether rear, forward, or top firing would sound best.

If anyone has some pics of there installs, I would love to see them. Maby copy some of your ideas.

Right now my plan is to mount the box forward firing, leave the cap where it is. Then put the amp on a chunk of carpeted mdf with some non slide rubber on the bottom. This way if I need the trunk space, I can pick up the amp and set it behind the sub box.

Here's pics of what I have,

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...s/DSC00233.jpghttp://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...s/DSC00234.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...s/DSC00235.jpg

4"-6" away from the tail gate firing back and mount the amp to the back of the seat

Thats what I would say as far as the amp mounting location if you dont use your rear seats :sign12: alot. If you do then you might be able to hide the amp behind the:silent:carpet on either side by the wheel humps if room permits. I guess for the sub it depends because I have a bandpassbox so it doesnt make too much of a difference I think. Just play with it is what I would suggest.

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Originally Posted by redrob

Thats what I would say as far as the amp mounting location if you dont use your rear seats :sign12: alot.

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just have to give yourself extra length of wire so you can fold the seats down when you want to and its a great location, out of the way, looks good and hell you could even mount the cap right next to it..

The best thing I can recommend, get everything wired up. Put the sub in multipe positions, each position you put it in, drive around for a few minutes so you can hear the sound with any road noise you may encounter then see what sounds best to you

i'm surprised none of you have made a side mount box.. thats what i would do, you even have the carpet as the backside template fr laying fiberglass..

then mount the amp on the other side

I wish I could do a side mount box, unfortunately I'm doing this install on a strict budget. Truthfully that truck box really dose not have enough inside volume for the sub. Got to make due with what I have on hand thou.

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Originally Posted by christiannewby

I wish I could do a side mount box, unfortunately I'm doing this install on a strict budget. Truthfully that truck box really dose not have enough inside volume for the sub. Got to make due with what I have on hand thou.

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that box is plenty big, but if you want it to sound better put some pillow stuffing in it...

that box will be good for your setup, Im not putting down your equipment in no way, but honestly, your pioneer amp wont push 740watts, your looking at reallistacly 2 maybe 300 watts a 10 on 2 to 300 watts doesnt need a big box

this is what I have. amp on left is JL Audio 300/4 for mids and highs, amp on right is JL Audio 250/1 for both subs which are (if you cant tell) JL Audio 10W1s which are single 4ohm voice coils wired together for a 2ohm load. vibrates the whole car (especially the rear hatch)

i'm running an old infinity baselink 10'' and stock speakers off from an alpine 103br unit, sounds fine. i can feel the bass inside the car without pissing off the neighbors when I get home. the baselink sits in the middle of my hatch space facing up. couldn't get a bite on the rear seat to mount it there.

Heres my setup with one 12 and an ampAttachment 3966

Face the subwoofer towards the rear hatch. What this will do is aid the driver (subwoofer) in loading off of the rear hatch and send the sound pressure forward. This will help manipulate the sound wave and give you the best frequency response. This is a very low-powered setup, so mounting your amplifier to the back of the box shouldn't be an issue here, even in the 1/2" mdf pre-fab enclosure.

Using polystuff or some sort of stuffing fibers inside the box will more than likely help you towards frequency response. At least in the low end of the frequency bandwidth. (Makes the subwoofer act as if it were in a larger enclosure while saving space. This idea can only be played out so far.)

Finally, get rid of the capacitor honestly. It's called a "stiffening cap" for a reason. When you already have steady voltage, the capacitor will momentarily store current and unload that current to the amplifier quicker than a power cell (battery_ could. Though, since you are just adding an amplifier (something else to strain your stock electrical) you will only see a lower voltage as a result of the capacitor using this current when there is none available. (Extra current per say) Bottom line, look into a secondary battery to run in the rear as opposed to the capacitor.

Battery>NOTHING> Capacitor when you are running your stock alternator as well as no secondary battery. Look into doing the "big three" upgrade as well. Cheap yet efficient. Remember, you need power to make power. The more current readily available, the better. With voltage drop, you will induce clipping much sooner and this can lead to damage for both your amplifier and subwoofer.

Hope this helps. :)

So far, I have had 3 different subwoofer setups (all in sealed boxes) in my aveo. First was a single 8, then a single 10, and now 2 10s, in the next several months I want to jump up to 2 12s. with all 3 setups, I tried facing the subs in multiple directions and always ended up firing the subs toward the cieling. In all 3 setups, facing the subs at the cieling has had the best bass response. firing them toward the rear hatch, I had less bass response but more rattle in the hatch itself