Need Painting Advice

As some of you know, I trashed my Aveo in February and looking to get it back beautiful. I bought a door and a radiator support. I would like to paint them before I put them on the car.

So I am ready to go down the road of body work painting. I need some advice on painting.

1) I have a small pancake air compressor 2.5 gallons. I might have to buy an aux tank or buy a new compressor. I believe that compressor is too small. I do have two spray guns that I have used in the past.

I want to see if I can get away with an open air or hang plastic sheeting to protect the surface during the spraying.

What painting process that will work in these conditions?

Single Stage Urethane?
Water Based Paints?

I am planning to do a sanding on the new door (burgundy color), prime it, then shoot my matching color on it and then a clear coat.

I am willing to take advice on what has been done. I am not considering plasticote at this time. Maybe later for striping.

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Originally Posted by xintersecty

As some of you know, I trashed my Aveo in February and looking to get it back beautiful. I bought a door and a radiator support. I would like to paint them before I put them on the car.

So I am ready to go down the road of body work painting. I need some advice on painting.

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I don't do automotive painting for a living, but have done some and know how to do it.

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1) I have a small pancake air compressor 2.5 gallons. I might have to buy an aux tank or buy a new compressor. I believe that compressor is too small. I do have two spray guns that I have used in the past.

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That's correct. You need a larger capacity tank and a compressor that will keep up with you.

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I want to see if I can get away with an open air or hang plastic sheeting to protect the surface during the spraying.

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Not recommended - too much dust, pollen and stuff floating around in an outdoor environment.

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What painting process that will work in these conditions?

Single Stage Urethane?
Water Based Paints?

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I wouldn't recommend water based paint.

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I am planning to do a sanding on the new door (burgundy color), prime it, then shoot my matching color on it and then a clear coat.

I am willing to take advice on what has been done. I am not considering plasticote at this time. Maybe later for striping.

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Always mount the door (or other major part of a vehicle) first, then paint it on the car. The reason why is that paint is still very soft and easily dirtied or scratched when it is fresh. You will need to handle the door (or fender or whatever) to mount it and adjust it. That needs to be done first, to avoid compromising the fresh paint in any way.

Assuming you own a spray gun, now all you need is a friend who has a garage and a bigger compressor. ;)

If you are planning on only painting the door, hang the door and paint it inside and out.

if the replacement door is in good condition, tear it down, and scuff (like sanding) the jamb and door with a red scotchbrite pad. Then just shoot the base and clear just on the jamb (cut in). Then you could hang the door and fix anything wrong on the outside, if there is anything. IF there is nothing wrong with the door, sand it quickly dry with 400 grit, then wet sand it with 600. then you can spray base right on the door. IF you fix anything and only spot prime, you can finish the primer with 400 and wet sand it with 600. Then shoot base and clear. You don't need to automatically go to primer. but you have to have not gone through the other paint.

The compressor is very important. sound like you know your insufficient.

Spraying outside is not ideal. Mostly because of the effects of your overspray to others, in fact it is illegal to spray outside in a lot of places from what i hear) But if you choose to do so, you need to allow it to flash longer, do more tacking, and be willing to sand and buff it more when finished. BUT saying how horrible it is, its not impossible i painted this in my back yard:

http://imageshack.com/a/img139/7803/...6goodsmln0.jpg


water based might be the only way you can go depending on your area. I would shoot base coat / clear coat (nason or shop line is fine) A quick 4:1 clear like jc60 or Xtreme is good easy and cheap.. Clear is harder to shoot, and you might not get it right so practice on the jamb, things you don't see first. you want to spray it the way it should look, without running it.

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Originally Posted by Thymeclock

I don't do automotive painting for a living, but have done some and know how to do it.




That's correct. You need a larger capacity tank and a compressor that will keep up with you.



Not recommended - too much dust, pollen and stuff floating around in an outdoor environment.



I wouldn't recommend water based paint.



Always mount the door (or other major part of a vehicle) first, then paint it on the car. The reason why is that paint is still very soft and easily dirtied or scratched when it is fresh. You will need to handle the door (or fender or whatever) to mount it and adjust it. That needs to be done first, to avoid compromising the fresh paint in any way.

Assuming you own a spray gun, now all you need is a friend who has a garage and a bigger compressor. ;)

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now let me add in my own Two cents, as I actually have a Degree in Collision Repair; and have the Tools to Prove it. the key thing in choosing an Air Compressor is the Standard Cubic Feet Per Minute (SCFM) that it puts out, and the SCFM that your Paticular Spray Gun calls for; My own Spray Gun Kit from Harbor Freight (item Number 94572) calls for 9 SCFM at 35 PSI; and the Compressor I have access to is 5.5 SCFM at 90 PSI, so the compressor would have enough power to drive my spray gun. the Size of the Air Tank is actually irrelevant for the task. but I DO agree with Thymeclock on the grounds of not spraying in open air; the sheer amount of Dust, Pollen, and insects (since we are moving into Spring) would Completely RUIN your Paint Job, causing you to have to Sand it all off, and start over.

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Originally Posted by 2010AveoLT

now let me add in my own Two cents, as I actually have a Degree in Collision Repair; and have the Tools to Prove it. the key thing in choosing an Air Compressor is the Standard Cubic Feet Per Minute (SCFM) that it puts out, and the SCFM that your Paticular Spray Gun calls for; My own Spray Gun Kit from Harbor Freight (item Number 94572) calls for 9 SCFM at 35 PSI; and the Compressor I have access to is 5.5 SCFM at 90 PSI, so the compressor would have enough power to drive my spray gun. the Size of the Air Tank is actually irrelevant for the task.

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SCFM is not just about "power", it's also about reserve capacity. A compressor has to have enough power to keep the reserve tank filled at a relatively high pressure, so that the compressor isn't running constantly. It needs to keep up sufficient pressure for the tool in use. That is why the tank has to be sufficiently large enough, so the compressor needs to be matched to the tank capacity, and powerful enough to keep the reserve pressure constantly high enough in the tank.

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but I DO agree with Thymeclock on the grounds of not spraying in open air; the sheer amount of Dust, Pollen, and insects (since we are moving into Spring) would Completely RUIN your Paint Job, causing you to have to Sand it all off, and start over.

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Agreed. Airborne stuff can ruin a paint job. As I said, he will need to find a friend with a sufficiently large compressor and a garage so he can spray the car indoors. ;)

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

sound like you know your insufficient.

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... that is what she said :-D

Everybody what fantastic advice. Wow! I would have never thought about the issues with spraying before putting the part on the car. One part, I will have to paint before I mount is the radiator support. I just got a whopping huge box on my deck yesterday from carpart. I have a 220 compressor from my dad when he passed away. Looks like I will be getting that back in shape. It has a much bigger tank. Of course the 220 sucks as nobody usually has a 220 outlet. I will go ahead and get the paint code off my car and see what carquest can do for me in terms of paint.

Rabbit is that a 72 super beetle? Mine got wreck and I had to give up on it. I see the porsche style wheels and side mirror. If a super beetle did you lower it with springs?

I still have a bunch of suspension parts and tow bar for the beetle I need to sale. Suggestions on what venue? BTW there is a lot of beetles here in the upstate SC. Very surprising.