timing belt replacement concerns

I'm trying to replace the timing belt in an 04 aveo. I'm having trouble getting the cams to stay lined up. The crazy way of using the waterpump to put tension on the belt is killing me. When I get all marks lined up, water pump tightened down and try to spin the engine over 2 times, the slack still in the belt causes the engine to jump time. What am I missing? We're using after market belt, water pump, and tensioner. We had it together once and running but puking oil from oil pump gasket (I hope). When it was taken apart to fix the oil leak was when all the timing problems happened. Please point me in the right direction. Thank you.

Did you try following the instructions in this thread? Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS My new detailed write-up

The link sent me to godaddy.com

www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/timing-belt-change-2006-aveo-ls-my-new-detailed-write-up-10284/

Because you had it running successfully once, I would assume the belt and other parts are ok. The most common reason for a loose belt is that the pointers weren't lined up correctly, but I assume you've got that down pat by now. One other possibility that comes to mind is if the 3 WP Allen bolts are not tight enough, the pump could turn and cause what's happening to you. I've always used a torque wrench on these bolts and snug them up in stages, because they are under sideways tension from the belt, and it can be difficult to "feel" the correct torque (89 inch lbs).

i just did my daewoo. the aftermarket tensioner in conjuction with the water pump being turned was too loose. The notch was tight enough to crank it over by hand, but when i started it, it slipped.

retensioned I over tightened it in relation to the mark but when the the "twist" method on the timing belt itself to determine proper tension. the pointer is almost lined up with the end of the metal tab the notch is on, but the belt is staying tight..

i originally thought the water pump twisted. i do not think it did. next time i do one, i recommend marking them for movement.

Option 1: use a DOHC lock tool. You can buy the Lisle 36880 online for about $20, or you can borrow one (you leave a check for deposit) at Oreily Auto parts. It will lock the cams in place. Wrap the belt around the cams and match marks, then the idler pulley. Turn the crank just a hair counter clockwise to easily align the belt mark, then turn it back to meet its rear cover mark. Now all your slack should be on the water pump side and you can follow the standard second mark, 2 revolutions, 1st mark tightening procedure.

Option 2: yank the valve cover, put a wrench on the camshaft just on the inside of the cover, re-position as needed. You will of course need a new valve cover gasket. But if you haven't done that yet you need to anyway.

Thanks for all of the advice. Got it all back together and running great then found out I should have replaced the cam seals. Had a significant oil leak from the top of the engine.:(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gsjeremy

Thanks for all of the advice. Got it all back together and running great then found out I should have replaced the cam seals. Had a significant oil leak from the top of the engine.:(

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Now that's a RPITA. In your OP, you said it was "puking oil". If that leak had been cam seals, I would have expected you to see oil covering the top section of the timing area, and all over the belt as well when you took it apart for the second time. Is that what you saw? If not, I'm really puzzled about what you're describing.