timing belt attacked my 05 aveo ls!! HELP!! :(

ok i bought my 05 aveo last november and it had 88,000 miles on it.. i checked the belt and appeared to be new so i went on my way.. it only lasted about a month.. turns out they replaced the belt and not the tentioners or pullys.. :( the idler pully broke in half as i was getting off the freeway.. all the valves were smashed so i took the head to be rebuilt put it all back together and now when you start the car it doesnt want to stay running and has a knocking sound.. i have replaced just about everything on the top of the engine and still nothing.. i got brave enough to drive it down my drive way and i got burnt by hot water some how.. and theres gas mixing with the oil inside the head and i dont know what else to do!! any ideas??

It sounds like you probably have a leak between the block and head. I'd do a compression and/or leakdown test to verify that.

The P0300 you're getting is probably from a new crankshaft position sensor I'm guessing. In order to get rid of the code you'll have to bring it in to a dealer or someone else with a GM specific OBDII tool (I forget the name of it). I had to take mine to the dealer to get rid of it. Tell them it needs a crankshaft relearn procedure.

no i did not replace the crankshaft position sensor.. do u think that could be the problem?? i guess i could try the compression test when i get home from work.. whats a leak-down test?? also my dad seems to think the computer might need reset,, how would i go about doing that??

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Originally Posted by reva

ok i bought my 05 aveo last november and it had 88,000 miles on it.. i checked the belt and appeared to be new so i went on my way.. it only lasted about a month.. turns out they replaced the belt and not the tentioners or pullys.. :( the idler pully broke in half as i was getting off the freeway.. all the valves were smashed so i took the head to be rebuilt put it all back together and now when you start the car it doesnt want to stay running and has a knocking sound.. i have replaced just about everything on the top of the engine and still nothing.. i got brave enough to drive it down my drive way and i got burnt by hot water some how.. and theres gas mixing with the oil inside the head and i dont know what else to do!! any ideas??

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Hi Reva,

Sorry to hear about these issues you are having with your 2005 Aveo. I know you prefer to do your own work but for your safety, I suggest taking the vehicle into the dealer and have them service it. Because I'm not a Certified Mechanic/Tech, I am unable to diagnose.

Please keep me posted on how it goes and what the dealer's diagnosis is.

Vanessa
GM Customer Service

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Originally Posted by reva

no i did not replace the crankshaft position sensor.. do u think that could be the problem?? i guess i could try the compression test when i get home from work.. whats a leak-down test?? also my dad seems to think the computer might need reset,, how would i go about doing that??

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I think using the old sensor is fine. Whatever it is, it needs to have the relearn procedure done if you keep getting the P0300 code. I reset mine a bunch of times while trying to fix it and it always came back.

This explains leak down testing: Leak-down tester - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I would probably only do a leak down test if the compression test doesn't show anything wrong. But, if things are bad enough for the engine to run that badly, you'll probably see problems with the compression test.

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Originally Posted by Daox

I think using the old sensor is fine. Whatever it is, it needs to have the relearn procedure done if you keep getting the P0300 code. I reset mine a bunch of times while trying to fix it and it always came back.

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If he's not also getting a P1336, I think it is unlikely that a relearn procedure will help. P0300 just indicates a misfire...which sound like it it a pretty obvious misfire from his description.

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Originally Posted by reva

no i did not replace the crankshaft position sensor.. do u think that could be the problem?? i guess i could try the compression test when i get home from work.. whats a leak-down test?? also my dad seems to think the computer might need reset,, how would i go about doing that??

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The getting burned with hot water problem indicates a mechanical problem (leak) that a computer reset wouldn't help...unless the getting burned with hot water part was do to someone flushing the toilet when you were in the shower. ;)

Gas mixing with the oil in the head? How do you know it is happening in the head? I would tend to think an injector is stuck open but that is just a guess.

How bad were the pistons damaged and were they replaced?

im pretty sure the water came from the over flow because i had just filled it,, plus i didnt want to sound lame and say i "slightly" forgot how to drive stick and stalled out.. lol :rolleyes: i replaced the spark plug wiresyet again and the code went away.. now theres no code and it still sounds horrible,, thats why we thought it might be the computer.. im not exactly sure the gas is mixing with the oil inside the head but every time i pull out the spark plugs they are covered in gas.. and i just replace them because that seems like a fire hazzard.. does it matter if i use the copper spark plugs?? because i havent been i have the auto-lites.. i have replaced them like 4 times..

the pistons were not damaged at all surprisingly!! :) not even a scratch!!

i havent had a chance to do the compression test yet but im sure its fine,, although it never hurts to do it anyway..

Are all the plugs soaked with gas or just 2? (I'm assuming you mean the electrode part of the plug below the threads)

It sounds like it's still out of time. If the timing is off by only 1 or 2 teeth, it will run, but very badly. Also for a relearn, one thing you can do is disconnect and remove the battery, then touch the terminals together and hold them there for about 1 minute. That will reset the computer to factory default and the computer will start learning from scratch.

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Originally Posted by mike3

It sounds like it's still out of time. If the timing is off by only 1 or 2 teeth, it will run, but very badly. Also for a relearn, one thing you can do is disconnect and remove the battery, then touch the terminals together and hold them there for about 1 minute. That will reset the computer to factory default and the computer will start learning from scratch.

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thank you!! i have been waiting for this answer for some time.. :)

as far as the timing,, im pretty sure its in time but i have had 100 different oppinions on how the timing should be set,, care to offer 101??

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Originally Posted by wylee

Are all the plugs soaked with gas or just 2? (I'm assuming you mean the electrode part of the plug below the threads)

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i cant remember,, would that make a difference in diagnosis??

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Originally Posted by reva

thank you!! i have been waiting for this answer for some time.. :)

as far as the timing,, im pretty sure its in time but i have had 100 different oppinions on how the timing should be set,, care to offer 101??

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What I used was a couple large clips to hold the belt on the cam gears, then had the crank gear set back a few degrees (2 teeth at most I don't remember if it was 1 or 2 it's been a few months since I did this) before putting the belt on it so that when you tighten the water pump it turns the crank into the correct position. Also the intake cam gear needed to be turned counter clockwise about 1/2 tooth to get the belt to line up correctly, there will be slack in the belt between the cam gears until you tighten the water pump. Sorry to ramble, I just remember how much of a pain this job was to get right.

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Originally Posted by mike3

What I used was a couple large clips to hold the belt on the cam gears, then had the crank gear set back a few degrees (2 teeth at most I don't remember if it was 1 or 2 it's been a few months since I did this) before putting the belt on it so that when you tighten the water pump it turns the crank into the correct position. Also the intake cam gear needed to be turned counter clockwise about 1/2 tooth to get the belt to line up correctly, there will be slack in the belt between the cam gears until you tighten the water pump. Sorry to ramble, I just remember how much of a pain this job was to get right.

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i like rambling!! i learn by hearing every detail.. :)

ok now heres the problem with what your saying,, my belt came off and everything moved with the belt being off so im basically starting from scratch with the timing.. i had to replace the crankshaft gear also so im not 100% sure of the timing marks.. my brother is actually the one who as done the timing only because i gave up.. is there a book out there for this car?? i cant find one any ware in columbus ohio,, come to think of it i havent been able to find it online either..

i did the computer reset and the car sounds a LOT quieter,, but its still got the puttering sound and chokes out,, so im thinking it might be in the timing.. i dont understand how they could make a car so complex!!

im going to try to upload a video of the engine running..

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Originally Posted by reva

i like rambling!! i learn by hearing every detail.. :)

ok now heres the problem with what your saying,, my belt came off and everything moved with the belt being off so im basically starting from scratch with the timing.. i had to replace the crankshaft gear also so im not 100% sure of the timing marks.. my brother is actually the one who as done the timing only because i gave up.. is there a book out there for this car?? i cant find one any ware in columbus ohio,, come to think of it i havent been able to find it online either..

i did the computer reset and the car sounds a LOT quieter,, but its still got the puttering sound and chokes out,, so im thinking it might be in the timing.. i dont understand how they could make a car so complex!!

im going to try to upload a video of the engine running..

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There are books out there, I got the CHILTON manual from my local library, and it has everything you will need with illustrations showing the timing marks. The belt coming off is not that bad, what you'll need to do is rotate the crank until #1 cyl is at top dead center (easy way to do this is remove #1 spark plug, put a straw in the spark plug hole and rotate the crank until the straw is at its highest point), then turn the cam gears until the marks face each other (intake at approx 3 o'clock, exhaust at 9 o'clock). All these rotations being done with the belt off.

I just tackled the full R&R on my daughters 05 today with 97, 650 mi and wasnt sure what had been done to it since it was purchased over 2 yrs ago with 75K. Plastic thermostag housing had been leaking a little while also. Was lucky enough to have belt still on so I could mark crap out of everyhing. I did notice the marks on the cam gears were a little confusing, as there are little arrows on inner part too. One of my hashmarks was almost between teen so it was small and hard to see. It was a little tricky too, playing with the pump, having a helper putting tension on rear cam to keep marks close, felt like a one legged cowboy at an ass kicking contest :) The forums and the awesome write ups on this saved my bacon, I hope you figure out your deal hope it is just timing

these are a few of the write ups with pics I found helpful with pics and the how to stuff. Oh my idler was also split, not sure how much longer it would have held on to the center bearing area !!

Chevy Aveo Timing Belt
Chevy AVEO Timing Belt Service: Underhood Service
http://www.zubinchandran.com/timing_belt_change.html

well fellas!! i got some horrible news today,, turns out i rebulit the top half of the engine insted of the bottom half.. :( to top of my pistons looked fine so i didnt think about the bottom of them,, the guy i talked to ssaid the piston rings busted and thats why the gas is mixing with the oil.. so with the 1400 i have in the top half of the engine i now have to find the bottom.........anyone know ware i can get a block at a fair price?? cheepest i found so far is 1550.. :/

That sucks Reva, sorry to hear the bad news

Very tough news after putting so much into it. I don't know where you can do better on the block price, but if you're at that amount anyway, how about getting a rebuilt motor instead? I've read about other guys who start on something like this, and keep on digging a deeper hole for themselves. I know it's (really) hard to have to eat what you've already spent, and then fork over an even bigger pile of $$. But unless you have lots of rebuilding experience, getting a rebuilt with a warranty might be your best option at this point. Good luck with it, regardless of which way you go!