Time to tackle the timing belt and water pump...

[TimE]

Is this where I blush at my ignorance?

I applied the 70lb torque with someone holding the brake, then released the break and rotated the crank 30 degrees and applied the brakes again, retried the torque, released the brake and turned 15 degrees and checked it again.

Nothing else made sense to me. Sigh... Ok. so I go watch video of yet another special tool to tighten that in. I'm not sure i get why there is a difference between using this angle in addition to the torque setting doesn't that just equate to a higher torque?

Clearly I've done it incorrectly, but now I wonder if it is worth going back in to re-torque it?

[petrified.rabbit]

its a stretch bolt, you don't turn the crank, looks up torque to yield bolts or stretch bolts on google.


thanks for the laugh though. (also you don't reuse/re-torque stretch bolts, so you are probably ok anyhow).

[avguy]

Is this where I blush at my ignorance?

No problem admitting to a mistake - I've made more than my share, and everyone else reading this has made a bunch as well. Your Aveo is running, you saved a pile of $$, and learned a bunch of new stuff. What's not to like about that?

I applied the 70lb torque with someone holding the brake, then released the break and rotated the crank 30 degrees and applied the brakes again, retried the torque, released the brake and turned 15 degrees and checked it again.

If you used the same torque setting, then all of this resulted in a net torque of 70 lbs.

Nothing else made sense to me. Sigh... Ok. so I go watch video of yet another special tool to tighten that in. I'm not sure i get why there is a difference between using this angle in addition to the torque setting doesn't that just equate to a higher torque?

If by special tool you mean an angle gauge, most of the folks who DIY this (including myself) draw angle lines on the crank pulley and crank pulley bolt, and use them as the guide. Perhaps it's off by a degree or two, but I can't imagine that ever making a difference.
And yes, the extra angular torque does result in a (significantly) higher final torque - the one that the engineer calculated is correct for this pulley bolt.

Clearly I've done it incorrectly, but now I wonder if it is worth going back in to re-torque it?

If it's going to weigh on your mind, you could re-torque it. Or alternatively you could (using increasing torque wrench settings) check to see what the current torque of the bolt is. Then if it's still 70, you could apply the extra angular torque. But if the torque is higher now (it might have tightened up while running), then you would either need to guess a lower angular torque to add, or undo the bolt and start from the beginning.

[TimE]

Yup, I learned a ton and had a good time at it too.

I thought it would all be the same torque. I guess I could tweak it higher, but I really don't care too much. Worst case is it will start making a terrible ruckus and I'll immediately suspect that as the issue.

I'm sure I'll be able to sleep not worrying about it. I'm good to go for now.

Thanks for the clarifications!

[06T200]

Tim, thanks for the cam tool tip.

About the whole 'torque to x, then rotate x degrees, then another x degrees' had me scratching my head too, and I am a 30+ year retired engine builder, never seen THAT before ever. (ok so I am old!) So I did what I have always done on these and just gave the bolt a couple good zaps with my impact and called it good LOL. About 1,500 miles and no issue, so it's good to go IMO. - I am glad you brought it up! That one did have me wondering if I might loose the only bolt holding on the balancer. I will have to try the 'angles' when I torque the head bolts on my next valve job. This method seems it would be more accurate.