3 Attachment(s)
Time to tackle the timing belt and water pump...
Following the guides:
Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS: My new detailed write-up
and
Timing belt
And I'm using the Lisle 36880 DOC lock tool, but I must be doing something wrong...
The only way I could get it to fit was like this:
Attachment 8417
where one tooth of the tool is up under the belt (Yeah. I know the cams are not aligned...had to turn things to get the tool tooth into this location.)
When I try to square up the tool it fits in three teeth, but not the fourth
Attachment 8418
see
Attachment 8419
I guess three in and one on the top of a cam tooth should hold it, but I'd sure feel better if all four were locked in place.
Thoughts?
Well that worked much better when I use the tool correctly!
So I got the old belt off and here are a few tips that I've not seen in any write-up that I've learned:
1) Loosen the timing chamber back cover BEFORE locking the cams--there are two retaining bolts that are only accessible between the tines of the cam sprockets and to access them you have to be able to rotate the cams to grant access, cause when they are aligned to the marks, these little beggars are obstructed! This needs to be done cause the back cover is one piece unit that you'll welcome the added flexibility when trying to get the water pump out. I managed, but it was a @#$#@!
2) Those dang 5mm pump retainers are snug! I used a normal allen wrench to get them out (no special tools required) I just put the closed end of my 10mm wrench over L portion and made a little cheater bar that broke them free quite easily. Loosen them slowly because...
3) Remember to shift the drain pan BEFORE this step where you loosen the water pump bolts--I ended up slopping around in a small slick of antifreeze most of the rest of the afternoon cause I thought I'd drained the bulk already from the radiator and then forgot to push it further back under fast enough.
4) Confirm and double confirm that you're going to get metal tensioner/idler from the manufacturer. I did double check and still ended up with plastic when I opened the package. Grrr. I put them in anyways as since I had them. The original equipment was in surprisingly good condition: timing belt was GM-DAEWOO and looked as good as new, OEM tensioner/idler were on par with what I was replacing them with if not better (the bearings ran freely...), and the water pump looked good as new save one small discoloration near the rubber seal. The pump seal was smashed flat as expected, so a new pump seal would have probably been the only thing needing replacement, but better safe than sorry.
So still need to attach the crank pulley and the serpentine belt, but feeling very good about getting the job finished soon. I'm going to get those in place and then go through the valve seal replacement before I button it all back up.
Thanks again to those who've gone before for the excellent guides and for the tool tips here.