Rebuilding the Aveo Cylinder Head

Well I finally got the head apart that I picked up in the salvage yard to practice on!. I even bought the valve compressor tool from Suzuki (GM Canada does not sell them). The special $170 tool is made of some cheap metal and bends as it tightens up and totally warps. I managed to get the 8 unbent (as far as I can tell intake valves out with that tool. The exhaust valves were not willing to budge with that Suzuki tool. I then resorted to a socket, an extension, and a mallet which I saw used on another forum. (The bigger hammer school of automotive maintenance as opposed to finesse and steady pressure!) The exhaust valves were all seriously bent and after removing the springs and ends, it was a case of unthreading them from the head. One of them took an hour of pounding and 10 minutes of unthreading from the head. After removing all of the valves and bagging them I then took what I think is a straight intake valve and tried it in each of the 16 locations. It moved in and out smoothly. Question for the group? how do I tell if the guides are bent? I bought the complete set of stuff from some outfit in S. Cal on e-bay so I should have the required bits. Second question how much cleanup should I do to the head I pulled from the wreck? I REALLY HAD NO INTENTION OF DOING THIS JOB MYSELF BUT THE GUY WHO WAS GOING TO DO IT FOR ME WENT BACK TO EASTERN EUROPE AND SO I ALREADY HAD THE PARTS FOR THE JOB! Any other pointers folks want to pass along Rocky

I would inspect each valve guide. Make sure there aren't any visible gouges, or scrapes, or anything on the inside. I'd also insert the correct (intake/exhaust) valve in each of them and make sure it moves smoothly. If those two things seem fine I'd bet you'll be okay.

As for the clean up, I'd just go over it all with a degreaser. It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, everything will be soaked in oil soon enough.

I would have sent in the extra head to have them check cleaned have them install the valves guides. Oh be for doing that I would open up any holes of the over casting slag get grind any sharp edges of smooth them and any cast lines first before sending them in. Then you could put the valves in and the keeper & springs cam to save money & reinstall. This way the other head ready to be bolted in you can use old one work on & practice on opening the oil return holes the pan round edges off . If you think you pretty good you might do a light bit of work to the bowl of the head and under the valves but not the valve shaft holes. Do not rework any bolt area in the head.