O2 Sensor code - P0053 Heater resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1

I have a 2010 Aveo LT will MIL light on with an active P0053 Bank 1 Sensor 1 02 heater resistance fault. The heater resistance measured 6 Ohms. I checked voltage at the O2 sensor connector and found +8.67V between one the heater terminals at the connector and the other. I then check between the + side and engine block and measured +12.6V. Should I only find 8.67V or is there a ground or ECU issue? I did check ground connections on the cylinder head (two ring terminals connected) and the large ground wire in the drivers side wheel well. I did not find another ground location.

Is the 8.67V OK?
Is there another ground connection that I am missing? Or wire not connected.

Any information would be appreciated.

I don't have baselines for resistance or voltage drop, but it's likely the heater in the O2 sensor has just gone bad.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by exodus0784

I don't have baselines for resistance or voltage drop, but it's likely the heater in the O2 sensor has just gone bad.

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I was thinking the same. Although resistance was ok, I changed it today and the same fault came back after 3 warm ups.

Make sure you have the computer memory wiped... I didn't and my CEL stayed on until I did after changing the 02 sensor.

Think P0053 is the upstream sensor ( closest to the engine ) . Did you check the wiring ? Did you change / replace the downstream sensor , by mistake .

If you have to , I have read you can take both battery cables off and hold the clamps together to force a re-learn , when you start it back up ?

Did you measure the resistance of the new one before you installed it ? What number did you get ?

God bless
Wyr

Good morning rdrp,


Did you fix the car? I have the problem as you. Changed the upstream sensor with NTK 25712 and the same fault came back after 3 warm ups.

- 8.5v on the heaters pins, EMS-2 fuse is OK. Average current during start up is 4-5 Amps.
- heater resistance measured 5-8 Ohms (depends how hot it is)

Thank you in advance.

Do you still have the old sensor you removed ? If you replaced the wrong one , I would hang on to it .

2010 CHEVROLET AVEO 1.6L L4 Oxygen (O2) Sensor | RockAuto

Rockauto.com lists both upstream and down stream .

As has been suggested , reset the error codes & see if the code comes back . Also , you can take it to AutoZone , Advance or O'Reilly and they will read the code for you & then erase the code .

Also , check out the thread at ;

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f82/u...ocation-19439/


God bless,
Wyr

Hi Wyr,

Thank you for reply. I've checked Rockauto.com and my sensor (NTK 25712) is listed as a correct one. I know the theory :) - the upstream is located right after the engine and before the catalytic converter (for Aveo it's in the dipstick area).

I've cleared computer by removing the ground wire from battery. I also have elm327 and cleared the codes with free ScanMaster for Androind. The ScanMaster always shows pending codes: P0053 & P0133. I think the P0133 is triggered because o2 sensor wasn't heated enough.

I have an Android phone . Try Torque Lite .

Your sensor , how many wires . I think the big wires are the heater wires . Check to see if they have 12 VDC ?

Do a search on youtube for O2 sensor diagnostic videos .

God bless
Wyr

Torque lite shows same codes as ScanMaster.

The sensor is NTK 25712 and has 4 wires. All wires have same gauge (thickness).

- 8.5v between the heaters pins.
- 12v between the heater pin and battery ground.
- EMS-2 fuse is OK and average current during start up is 4-5 Amps.
- heater resistance measured 5-8 Ohms (depends how hot it is)

Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.

I have downloaded the pdf's for your car ( wiring diagrams / schematics ) . Do you want me to email them to you ?

I think you are right , the fuse is EMS-2 .

If you have 12VDC from the heater pin & battery ground & 8.5 VDC between the 2 heater pins , I am wondering if you are loosing ground , partially ?

God bless
Wyr

Hard to say is 8.5v OK or not. All I know it's not going to be 12v. Some voltage always drops on the transistor inside car's brain. It opens/closes frequently (pulse width modulation) and connects o2 to the ground. The ECU controls the o2 temperature by changing the width of the pulse.

Attachment 10567

New update guys.

Looks like 8.5v is a normal voltage between the supply and ground at the connector. The ECU powered by 5v source.
- When the transistor is fully closed, the voltage on the pins is around Vbat-(5v..3v) or 8.5v in my case.
- When the transistor is fully opened, the voltage on the pins should be Vbat-0.6v or 11.4v in my case.

Good day everyone,

New update guys. After I've figured out that the wiring is OK it is a time to look at other options. The ECU always throws two codes: P0053 & P0133.

What causes the P0053 code?
- Faulty HO2 sensor. (Unlikely it's broken, but it's a chance it's not the right one (it's not certified by GM). So I skipped for now.)
- Damaged or disconnected electrical connector at the oxygen sensor (Checked. OK)
- Faulty or shorted wiring in the oxygen sensor circuit (Checked. OK)
- Blown fuse for the HO2S sensor (Checked. OK)
- Low or excessive fuel pressure (Don't have a pressure gauge. So I skipped for now.)
- Vacuum leak on the engine
- Excessive exhaust leaks
- Faulty ECU (Engine Control Unit), in rare cases (Unlikely it's broken. Don't have a oscilloscope. So I skipped for now)

What causes the P0133 code?
- A faulty O2 Sensor (Unlikely it's broken, but it's a chance it's not the right one (it's not certified by GM). So I skipped for now.)
- A leaking exhaust manifold
- An engine vacuum leak
- An open or short in the wiring of the O2 sensor (Checked. OK)
- Soot or oil buildup on the O2 sensor (excessive buildup) (Sensor is new. OK)
- A dirty mass air flow sensor (Cleaned two moths ago with carb cleaner. OK)
- Incorrect fuel pressure

This codes have three things in common:
- Low or excessive fuel pressure
- Vacuum leak on the engine
- Excessive exhaust leaks

I don't have the pressure gauge so skipped the first cause for now. Vacuum and exhaust leaks are easy to check. So i did and guess what - I have a vacuum leak in the third injector. Ordered injector seal kit for 32CAD. Will try this weekend. I'm pretty sure it's going to fix P0133 code and doubt about P0053.

The ECU algorithm for P0053 code is:
- The ignition is switched off for more than 8 hours. (this is why almost everybody has this code after 3 warm ups :))
- The difference in temperature of the engine coolant (ECT) and the inlet air temperature (IAT) is between 8 ° C (14 ° F)
- ECT temperature is in the range from -30 to + 45 ° C (-22 to + 113 ° F)
- The ignition voltage is less than 18 V
- The duration of engine operation more than 200 ms.
- After performing the above test conditions, P0053 run once for each engine start from a cold condition.

As you can see all this tests conditions don't have any relation to vacuum, exhaust leaks and low or excessive fuel pressure. But who knows it's GM. We will see this weekend.

I do not know from personal experience , but I think I have read not to use carb cleaner on a mass air flow sensor ? Use cleaner specific for a MAFS .

God bless
Wyr

"cleaner specific for a MAFS" - is rebranded isopropyl alcohol. You can get 3 times more from Walmart for the same price of one MAF cleaner.

Aveo5 2009 uses Bosch HFM-7 MAF sensor. It's a new technology and has hot film instead of thin wire. That film is OK to alcohol, acetone and carb cleaner.

This is how to clean MAF on Aveo5

Attachment 10570

Would the water in drug store rubbing alcohol cause problems .

Iso-Heet gasoline additive is 99% isopropalol , I think ?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7AOGEw&cad=rja

God bless
Wyr

This why the safety level is shown on the picture. Also buy only 99% or 70% alcohol, and dry the sensor immediately. Works fine for me.

The "Iso-Heet" has odor additive. It can create residue on the sensor.

Curious if you have solved the P0053 problem? I am going through a similar issue with my 09 Aveo5. I had a drivability problem creep in the other day on a 20 mile drive...hesitation and rough idle. No CEL, but when I got home my scanner showed P0053 pending. Seemed logical the O2 sensor might be bad at ~160K miles, so changed it out and cleared the code. Three or 4 starts later, CEL is on and showing only P0053. Interesting that driveability seems ok at this time. I saw your forum note and wondered if I might have a similar problem.

John B

Good day everyone.

A week ago I changed the injectors gaskets and error code P0133 gone.

Attachment 10583

However P0053 was still present. So I went to the store and explained the issue: the new sensor has resistance of 5 Ohm, the old from the car has 10..11 Ohm. They agree to exchange. Next day I got a "new" o2. The sensor has some dents and scratches on the nut and missed anti seize grease but the protective cap was shiny (maybe they put it on the car for test before???). After I put it on the car the P0053 gone right away. Had pending P0171 for a day and next day it gone too.

Attachment 10584

Attachment 10585

Now I have another problem - on the highway LTFT sits around 7..8% +- 2..3% STFT.

I get nice 0% long term fuel trim +-5% short term fuel trim, during the warm up and idle. As a prove see the picture below. On the screenshot the engine still warming up (temperature is 44C and did't reach 75C, RPM is still too high 879, should be around 750). MAP is in the range - 35kPa, and MAF is ok too - 3.6 g/sec. It means MAF and MAP work fine.

Attachment 10586

Since I figured out my MAF and MAP is OK it could be another vacuum leak or fuel pump is dying. But I my LTFT is perfect during the idle - it means no leaks. I removed the pump and found that my pre-pump filter is clogged and dirty and fuel filter is still OK.

Attachment 10587

Attachment 10588

For some reason GM and aftermarket don't sell pre-pump & fuel filter separately. You have to buy whole assembly for 250-320 CAD. Dose anybody know where I can buy pre-pump filter? Thank you in advance.

Check rockauto.com , if they sell to Canada ?

Or eBay ?

God bless
Wyr

I've checked rockauto and ebay - only
fuel pump assembly for ~200 cad.

How much is it at your local parts srores ?

God bless
Wyr

Local price is ~200 cad for the pump assembly. A year ago I got Kia Rio5 pre-pump filter for 15CAD and fuel filter for 35CAD. Feel the difference.

As a last resort , check GM ?

Please refresh my memory . How many miles on the car ?

God bless
Wyr

PS Try contacting the filter manufacturers ? Google them and see if they have toll free numbers or email addresses for customer service .

70 000 miles.

Do you know the filter manufacture?

Sorry , no .

The car is made in Korea but had no look googling Korean fuel pre filter .

Try the American brands like Fram , Purilator , Wix , etc. .

God bless
Wyr

Thank you, but I still can't understand why GM doesn't sell pre-pump and fuel filter. Almost all makers sell it separately and suggest to replace fuel filter every 60000km...90000km.

Think they are talking about the external filter .

My guess is no one is going to remove the fuel pump , unless they have to . Certainly not to remove the strainer .

The 2 older cars I have replaced the in-tank fuel pump , I had to drop the tank ! :-(

From the photo , it looks like that assembly also includes the fuel level sending unit , also . Which explains part of the cost .

Other than that , who knows why the companies do what they do ?

God bless
Wyr

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WyrTwister

Think they are talking about the external filter .

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I think you stuck in the past Wyr. This is screenshot of KIA RIO5 2010 manual, p.194

Attachment 10589

The KIA's fuel filter is a part of fuel pump. Maybe it's going to be surprise for you, but it's a common practice now to integrate the fuel filter and the strainer into the pump body. I agree it's not very handy when the time comes to replace it, but at list other makers sell the repair kits.

I think you are correct , I am no doubt stuck in the past .

1996 is the newest I have had to mess with fuel pump / fuel filter . Have not had to do so on our newer cars .

But if you have to remove the pump from the tank on that schedule , sounds like another way to screw the end user by increasing service costs ! :-( Unless it is covered under warranty . Which I suspect , it is not .

The Kia does not have an external filter ?

Best of luck with it . :-)

God bless
Wyr

2010 Kia Rio5 doesn't have external fuel filter. My dealership didn't bother about it. Around 80 000km they checked fuel pressure. Finaly it quit at 110 000km and I changed it by myself. Took me about 2 hours.