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2010 Aveo, temp gauge will climb to H in steps, then after a moment will drop back down in steps. Car isn't physically running hot, heat works, fans work not losing fluod. Really weird thing is it will happen at the se points in my drive to/from work. I've done a vacuum assisted coolant replacement, and am positive there is no air in the lines. Good thermostat. Wondering if its the gauge or possibly the sensor.
When was the timing belt done? Sounds like a water pump or something along those line
Timing belt was done w head gasket I'd say 50k ago (don't remember exact mileage). Water pump was also a thought, but the symptoms showing up at the exact same spot of my drive (even if I take partially different routes that still go through the same spot) threw me for a loop. Ever done a water pump? Just curious how difficult they are. Ive built fire trucks and run a VALVOLINE shop, so I'm decent with tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by thehunterooo
I would take it for a ride going somewhere else, about how long do you have to drive until it heats up. Are you changing elevations a lot? Also how many miles are you at now?
I do not think we have had a bad temp gauge on here yet (at least what I have seen, they seem to be very durable), not to say there could be an issue with it here. Just some weird symptoms.
Itll do it driving other places too, just used the work reference for one of the symptoms. No drastic elevation changes, and its sporratic timing wise. Sometimes it'll do it once, sometimes a few times. Its coming up on 120k now. My thinking with the water pump is that worn fins could be creating a sporadic circulation problem, but am kinda baffled. Why I reached out to the forum before tearing into it. What has me questioning the water pump, is when the needle hits the H and stays momentarily, I don't get a warning or limp mode, car acts normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by thehunterooo
Is there any coolant loss? this could be signs of a failing pressure cap, if it is lowering the pressure, the temp will appear to shoot up, and then the spring (pressure) returns and it will run cool. it is also my understanding the thermostat is somehow computer controlled. So there might just be a sensor issue or the thermostat itself.
The reported fix for overheating in a couple other 2010 was a bad radiator (coolant bottle) cap. Those also had some coolant coming from the cap, but perhaps your's has slightly different circumstances.
Good call on the cap. At about $10 for the part, you can afford to throw the part on and hope it's the fix.