Clutch Replacement 2007 Aveo5

[60vette]

Ok Folks:

I just completed R&R of my daughter's clutch, PP and throw out bearing.

The job sucked: on a scale of 10 if being getting kicked in the balls is a 9.

For you guys who do this with a jack in your driveway...please get therapy.

I have a Mohawk lift in my barn, a Dad who was a mechanic his entire life who taught me this stuff from when I came home from school as a youth and still it kicked my ass. I'm embarrassed to say that I am a licensed Airframe and Powerplant mechanic and still it busted my balls.

Had I known the proper sequence of disassembly it would have saved me a day at least.

Here's the deal guys:
If you have a lift you will need to support the engine/transmission assembly onto a table of sorts as you disconnect the transmission and L/H engine mounts. Do I need to say that all positional directives are given from the driver's seat?
You will need to disconnect and remove the K frame 4-19MM bolts which turns out to be not a big deal. You will need an 18MM crows foot to disconnect the rack. No excuses. NAPA has the complete crowsfoot set for $22.

Disconnect the rack from the steering column in 3 places under the dash. Yes, three places. No big deal, a 12 MM socket will suffice and allow you to telescope the shaft.

Standard removal and reinstall procedures prevail. As an aircraft mechanic I would record every nut, bolt or clamp that I removed so that I would not neglect it upon reassembly.

I did the same with the Aveo.

This is a pretty tough - do it yourself- project but if you are committed you can do it.

Give me a PM if you need support.

60vette

[rret]

other people have pulled engine from the top. why did you drop the engine/tranny? i need to do this myself - trying to figure out the best way.
thanks

[60vette]

other people have pulled engine from the top. why did you drop the engine/tranny? i need to do this myself - trying to figure out the best way.
thanks

Hi rret:

I started out thinking I would pull the entire assembly out of the engine bay with my engine hoist. The more I looked at the job I decided the "easiest" way would be dropping it out the bottom. I did not REMOVE the engine.

I removed the K frame, battery and battery box to access the L/H engine mount and a large bracket near the battery box that supports the clutch slave hyd line.

Ok your K frame is out which includes that center engine mount. If you are on a lift lower the car so that the engine and transmission sit on onto a table/horses or etc. With the weight of the engine being supported by the table loosen and remove your L/H engine mount. You will need to take the big cast iron mount bracket off the transmission (3 bolts) and the 2 bolts going through the rubber mount. Leave the rubber mount on the car. No need to remove. Now raise the car up slightly and the left side of the engine will drop down while the right mount is still attached to the car. This tilt will allow you to pull the transmission out through the L/h wheel well.

Benefits of this are that you do not have to disconnect and drain the radiator, remove the hood or disconnect any of the wiring connectors although there is one on the transmission you will need to unplug.

One point I must make you will need to disconnect the exhaust. Just behind the K frame the exhaust was connected by a flat flange with 2 bolts. Everything was rusted so I cut the bolts with a torch. Upon reassembly I reused the old gasket and reconnected with 2 new bolts, nuts and washers.

Frankly if you are doing this in your driveway it multiplies the difficulty many times over.

As you take each and every nut and bolt off record it - then when you reassemble it will go 100 times faster and you won't do things out of sequence. GO EASY. This isn't a bulldozer. And for the knuckle heads on the forum who "Do it in 20 minutes" or "I've done it 6 times" or "when I did my VW..." - take it for what it's worth.

The little throw out bearing lever is just stamped steel and sits there on top of the transmission. Do not bend it.

I assume you know how to center the clutch plate prior to bolting up the PP. Call me if you have questions but not after 9PM. I'm old and cranky and need my sleep. July 19th I'm gone for a week to Cabo.
Good Luck,

Ralph
413-258-3337 H
Tolland, MASSACHUSETTS not CT

[Highball116]

Hey Ralph, glad you got everything back together. I have a 2004 manual transmission and I'm collecting information for a clutch replacement sometime in the months to come. The car has 130,000 miles and I'm not having any clutch troubles yet, but I want to be ready with the knowledge to replace it when the time finally comes. I'm a pinsetter mechanic in a bowling alley, and as far as my car is concerned, this will be the most major repair I've ever made, by a landslide. Obviously I have lots of questions. How much did the transmission weigh, and what all did you remove from the left wheel to give yourself room to slide the transmission out of there? I would have to do this without a lift, and I'd be renting any of the major tools required. Would you use a strut tower support bar on the engine, and lower it that way? I'm a scrawny guy and I'm nervous about raising and lowering the engine with a jack underneath. What about a transmission jack? I've been watching a two-hour video series on YouTube of a guy replacing the clutch on a 2002 Ford Focus, since there aren't any Aveo videos that I can find. Did you find anything really unusual, or better yet, would you mind typing out the sequence of removal and reassembly? Any and all information would be hugely appreciated. I have a few mechanics to guide me, but they work on buses.

Thanks!!
Toby

[rret]

hi ralph - thx for your direct style. refreshing these days.
i need to pull both the engine and tranny.
based on what you have done, would you drop or lift?
i have both a lift and an engine hoist.
thx

[60vette]

hi ralph - thx for your direct style. refreshing these days.
i need to pull both the engine and tranny.
based on what you have done, would you drop or lift?
i have both a lift and an engine hoist.
thx

rret:

Use the lift, it will be easier to raise the car incrementally allowing the assembly to drop right out onto your table. Pulling from the top looks sketchie at best. Probably can be done but I think dropping it out the bottom is the preferred method. You don't need to bend and break accessories. By the way, if you can afford it change the starter when the engine is out. You will know what I mean when you see where the bastards buried it. Wouldn't hurt to throw in a water pump at the same time.

Give it Hell, document each nut and bolt including orientation and length as you go. One of the transmission bolts is shorter than the other 19MM bolts (head size not thread size) and you want to make sure she goes back where she came out.
Upon reassembly run all threaded bolts past your wire wheel to clean them up and use copious amounts of anti seize or bearing grease. Makes future work that much more pleasant. But then, in retrospect, it's never pleasant.

By the way, you will need to refill the power steering fluid and transmission fluid. According to the techs at Central Chevrolet West Springfield, MA the power steering fluid is Dextron VI. 2007 Aveo5
The manual transmission calls for a fluid with a GM part number and when you get the quart jugs they have 75W-90 GL-3 written on them.
Available anywhere.

Go forth and kick ass my friend.

[petrified.rabbit]

if you buy a strut tower engine cradle/support, you can do it easier. it will allow to to drop the subframe and then wind down the the transmission side of the drivetrain without having the blockage of a table or horses under the car. Then you wind it back up into the engine mount.

I think you forgot (or didnt mention) taking out the dogbone mount. I will allow you to tilt the engine further, I figure you did it though because it attaches to the k frame.

fastest way to take out the k frame (enough of a drop to pull tranny) is take out top strut bolts, disconnect the steering column, unbolt the 2 power steering brackets to allow for some play, take out the dogbone, then disconnect and lower the k frame to the floor on a jack. If you dont have power steering you can take it out all the way, or disconnect the lines if you must.

This isn't a 20 minute job, but your condescending remarks make me wonder home many transverse transmissions that airframes and and powerplants have. I have replaced/split more engines and transmissions than most people, its an all day project if done seriously on the ground. It could be done in 6-7 hours with a lift and a case of beer.

[freddingo]

Anyone know of a guide with photos?

[bree]

For all you people having to change the clutch let me help you alittle first read book then through it away its wrong I just completed 1 last nite I look atthings a little different here is what you do it took me 4 hours and 20 first time with no power tools
Do not remove k frame as others have said and the book says as well as you do not have to remove engine
I have 30 years under my belt if you have any questions you can call me # 907-947-5966
You will need a 19 mm 17 mm 14 mm 13 mm 12 mm 11 mm 10 mm socket and wrench and a 32 mm hub socket

1 loosen lug nuts

2 jack up as high as possible and suport both sides with jack stands remove wheels

3 take off cv shaft outer nuts to keep the hub from spinning but a screw driver in the vent on the brakes

4 take of the 2 bolts on each side that hold the struts to control arm

5 remove cv shafts

6 take out battery and battery plate

7 unplug the 2 wire harness that are plug into transmission remove ****er linkage from trans

8 remove transmission mount from bottom back of engine

9 support engine on oil pan with jack make sure to use a peice of wood so not to damage



11 remove upper trans mount under where the battery was lower engine with jack to get it all the way out

12 remove transmission change out clutch

Now reverse steps and put it back together

[Pooh Man]

This really sucks- Am I correct in assuming this will be the same process on the 2nd gen 09+ aveos?