OG-Lou, my check engine light came on this afternoon and then disappeared before I could even drive to Autozone for the code read- but P0340 showed up in the OBD history when they pulled it! Your dedication to this error is incredible, thank you so much for the intense writeup! I will be interested to hear what solves your problem and if my error comes back.
Avguy
I have loosened and then re-tightened every major +12 volt connection and every ground I have found. It still could be a possibility something isn't making a good contact.
I bought a Bosch 1050 blue tooth scanner and had to play around with it to get it to work the first time. I didn't find codes at that time but the P0340 showed up earlier in the week because I erased it 26 miles ago.
The next thing I am going to try is disconnect the cam sensor wire, start the engine and turn it off right away to see if that sets a P0340 code. Then I will know if the P0340 is scheduled to turn on the CEL right away or later after it happens 2 or more times.
Like a lot of other people, I thought the code meant to replace the part. I am getting it that the code is more about an electrical signal and not the actual part. It is a learning curve.
My battery voltage is higher running than was in the pictures I posted. Next I am going to test all of the fuses. I tried to re-connect my Bosch 1050 scanner and it shows it is paired to the tablet I am using but the app won't run to show current data. I have to figure out that out before I do anything else.
My other MaxiScan bluetooth scanner also won't deliver data to my cell phone, so maybe something I am doing isn't working.
I also bought a Harbor Freight Zurich ZR-13 that was used. So I have 4 code readers of various abilities to read data or not.
On another related topic, I bout a second cam sprocket timing tool kit. Like the first one, my second cam sprocket tool kit doesn't work on my 2008 engine although it was advertised to work on a 2008. So back it goes. It was only $20 so maybe I might see if some of the fixtures could be modified to work at least a little.
I read several threads about the air bag light and most of the stuff i read indicated everyone had to go to the dealership and have the air bag light" diagnosed with a GM dedicated TECH-2 scanner. I am going to look on this forum for GM TECH-2 threads and if it is about the only scanner that works on Aveos.
If I don't find enough answers I am going to start a GM TECH-2 thread. The original GM TECH-2's cost a lot of money and the updates cost money. Now they have clones that are up-dated to work on up to 2013/2014 vehicles and the tool kit with all of the accessories is less than $350. Several guys on the Corvette forum have the GM TECH-2's and say it is one of the best purchases they made.
Clone Tech2 purchased-Very pleased
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...y-pleased.html
Last edited by OG-Lou; 06-07-2018 at 08:25 PM.
J5, I had the CEL light come on and also go off for a couple of days over a month ago. After I turned off the CEL, i drove for about a week before it came back on. This happened twice.
I will emphasize what AvGuy said in one of his earlier posts to me. Measure the battery voltage at the cam sensor connector. Measure the resistance between the sensor ground wire and the battery ground. And see if there is some voltage ( ~2.5V?) coming from the signal wire of the cam position sensor when the engine is running. Look at my initial pictures to do the tests.
Like I said above and AvGuy said, the part might be bad but the computer only is interested in the electrical signal coming from a sensor. The part could be good but something is interrupting the signal before it gets to the computer.
How many miles on your car? And at what mileage are you in relationship to replacing the timing belt?
Last edited by OG-Lou; 06-07-2018 at 08:21 PM.
I should have specifically mentioned the ground that's connected to the starter motor, because that's the cam sensor ground. Did you check that connection and also as much of that wire as can be accessed?Originally Posted by OG-Lou
AvGuy thanks for the reply. Yes, I did sort of check-retightened the ground wire/s by the starter. I say sort of because I loosened it a half a turn then re-tightened it with a little extra force.
I suppose to do it the right way I need to follow my GM training school practice I participated in back in 1963. That is to remove the wire, clean off any paint, grease or crud, brightened the area and the wires, then install a star washer (small raised point on the perimeter) and re-tighten the bolts. I used to do this with cars with slow cranking 6 volt electrical systems and it really made an improvement in cranking speed.
Right now I have 11 trips on the car since I cleared the P0340 code and it runs well with only a hint of an occasional buck if I lug the engine a little around 1,000 RPM, coming out of a traffic circle. I checked for soft codes and didn't find any. I still need to disconnect the cam sensor wire, start the engine one then a second time to see if the P0340 gets set right away.
I got my Bosch 1050 to function to what seems logical. It was indicating it was paired to my tablet but every time I selected "show current data" the tablet screen went to the bluetooth setting menu on the tablet. I now have screen shots and data for each of the 4 screens (12 data points per page) but a few data points are N/A for an Aveo. It is still a decent amount of current data.
I had some things to do (50 th wedding anniversary) so I didn't get time to investigate Aveo potential repairs or engage in any self training. The mosquitoes are getting bad-annoying in the morning and in the evening when I work on the car. Mid day I have a shade tree to work under. And my yoga and bicycle rides all take time. I now poor excuses if a guy wants to "stay dirty," which is "Eric the Car Guy's" motto when he closes a Youtube video.
Can you post what the short and long term fuel trim patterns are, both at idle and while driving?
AvGuy, I have the STFT and the LTFT data but only at idle right now. I can do the road test numbers later. The cats or dogs or both peeed on the dining room carpet over the winter and with the warmer weather it just started to smell so I took the 6 X 9 carpet and hung it over the fence and pressure washed it. All of my wife's animals came from a rescue shelter and some of the rescue animals have problems because they were mostly neglected.
About a week ago I bought 2 used code readers at a pawn shop. A Bosch 1050 and a Harbor Freight Zurich ZR-13. I took pictures of the data screens for the Bosch 1050 and wrote down the engine data at idle. Today I did something similar but used the Zurich ZR-13. I am going to make a separate thread about the 3 scanners I have after I update the scanners to show what each scanner does when connected to my 2008 Aveo 5. I am severely tempted to buy a clone GM Tech-2 for $350.00. Yes, I can be a tool junkie and I admit it.
This afternoon I connected the Zurich ZR-13 and found 2 additional codes under the Chevrolet enhanced menu. I am not going to do anything to the car right now but I will be investigating some more things later. The ZR-13 is the only scanner that I found the Chevrolet enhanced menu on. I will look if my other scanners have an enhanced menu option.
This is what was displayed on the Chevrolet enhanced menu screen of the ZR-13, but the CEL/MIL is NOT on.
1.P0016 Crankshaft position - intake
Camshaft position not plausible
Possible causes Mechanical timing fault (stretched timing chain or damage timing chain tensioner) ........ more at
https://www.autocodes.com/p0016_chevrolet.html
2.P0650 MIL control circuit
Possible causes Faulty Malfunction Indicator Lamp Bulb Malfunction Indicator Lamp Bulb harness is open or shorted Malfunction Indicator Lamp Bulb circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) ....
more @ : https://www.engine-codes.com/p0650_chevrolet.html
Last edited by OG-Lou; 06-09-2018 at 09:38 PM.
My P0016 code and my low compression numbers indicate my cam sprocket and crank sprocket timing marks are not aligned properly.
Here is more information about a P0016 code
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0016
Looking at the pictures I took that are on the first page of this thread has me puzzled. I even made marks on my old belt and sprockets, counted the teeth or slots between the marks, and re assembled the timing belt components so the installed parts were in the same location as thew original parts.
I bought the first and second timing belt tool set hoping it would fit/work and eliminate the process of visually aligning the 3 timing marks. Too bad the toothed spacers that go between the cam sprockets are too thick to even get close to fitting between the sprockets. Both tool kits might work on a 2009 with VVT.
The red plastic parts with notches that fit in the camshaft sprocket groves would nave been a way to exactly determine if I aligned everything properly. Too bad that part of the tool kit is too wide for my engine. Each side of the red notched spacers has an alignment notch that you match up.
https://www.amazon.ca/Engine-Timing-.../dp/B01M7OR7DU
Last edited by OG-Lou; 06-09-2018 at 10:35 PM.
Well, now I'm scratching my head about a couple of things here. First, off with such low compression, I'd been assuming something wasn't right with the compression tool that you had been using. But if there's a timing issue, and compression is really 130 on all four cylinders, then I'm not understanding how your Aveo could be running basically ok. I guess the final verdict will come in when you redo the timing belt.
The other puzzling thing (to me) is why one reader is able to read that P0016 but the other one cannot. Reading DTC codes is basic functionality and even the most inexpensive reader needs to be able to do that correctly. I wonder if that code is 'pending', and being ignored for whatever reason by the reader that isn't displaying it.
It will be interesting to see what happens next, after you have another look.
AvGuy, I have read and watched videos about scanners and it keeps popping up that some scanners read certain codes and not other codes.
1. I see there are about 5 protocols for data readers, so one tool might have a higher ability to read certain data. I watch scanner videos of scanners priced over $1,000 in side by side comparisons and often the guy doing the video says which scanned does what type of diagnosis better or worse on what model of vehicle.
2. Maybe I don't know how to use each scanner's total abilities. I will admit to starting out that I saw code readers as tools to replace parts and clear codes. Past that I didn't know what a STF trim or a LTF trim was or what the terms meant. I only found the P0016 code by playing with the ZR-13 menu and pressing buttons or making selections on the menu screen to see where it lead. I am guessing my Innove and Bosch 1050 don't have an "enhanced manufacture code" menu, so no codes from those scanners.
BTW,the "enhanced manufacture code" is different than global OBD2. I am guessing all of the other 4 scanners I connected to the 2008 Aveo were on "OBD-2 global" mode only. I stumbled on the "enhanced manufacture code" because I was trying to read why my air bag/ SRS (supplemental restraint system) light was lit on the instrument panel. After trying to get an air bag / SRS code all the other scanners and the ZR-13 scanner read was "unable to establish communication ......" which seems common according to the many Youtube videos I watched. Even the expensive ($800) scanners didn't do some SRS codes.
Right now I am of the opinion that my best choice of scanner would be to buy a GM Tech-2 clone from China for ~$350. I own a 2001 Buick LeSabre (no problems with the car) so that would give me a tool to do crankshaft re-learns on both vehicles. At $125 + for each relearn (if required) I would almost have the GM Tech-2 paid for. BTW, with a GM Tech-2 tool, a crankshaft sensor re-learn takes 4 minutes with the right tool.
Several years ago my speedometer quit working so I took my Aveo to the dealership. They gave me an estimate for $500+. I bought a used speedometer head for $50, it didn't fix anything. Next I bought a $14 speed sensor that goes in the trans-axle. Problem solved. I took the speed sensor apart. It had as small coil of wire and a tiny magnet attached to the shaft that is driven by the speedo-gear that spun around to pulse the coil of wire. I don't know the wave form type without looking it up.
Average Dealer price to replace a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) $312 to $490 and I did it for $65 including a $50 mistake.
VSS from eBay cheapie $8 now to $15, $52 JC Whitney, $76 GM, and up to over $140 in a few cases.
I sold a friends 2009 Aveo with 29,000 miles. Another friend had a 2009 with 33,000 miles. 2 local dealerships said they wanted to buy the cars becausethey had low miles and they had buyers for "cream-puff cars. I went to the dealer because they said they might pay close my asking price. I get the song and dance about how Aveos have a bad reputation and was offered some ridiculously low price. My friend (unknown to me at the time) got the same call from a different new car dealer. Bottom line, both offers were for around $1,00. So besides charging way too much for repairs and wanting to pay unreasonably low prices for a trade in, I think "stealership" fits some new car franchises.
On my friends 1997 Buick an independent shop wanted $70 labor to change 6 out in the open spark plugs. Other reasons I do my own work and struggle through the process sometimes is because of above examples.
Back to my situation. I watched several videos with P0340 codes ( Camshaft position (CMP) sensor) where the root problem was the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor. Why the miss diagnosis? Mainly because the DIY mechanic didn't have the expensive scanner or lab scope to look at the digital pattern on a scope screen, of the electrical signals coming from each sensor. Cars got a bit more complicated since my first "line mechanic" job in a larger repair shop.
I bought a used ECM ($65) and a cheapie crankshaft sensor($15) just in case. I would install the parts but both need to go through a reprogramming-re-learning process so I am holding off changing any more parts.
I live in a good size town but the next anything to the north and east is 50 miles away. Past those towns to the north and east any help is even further away, so break downs mean being prepared and self sufficient to a degree. having extra parts is somewhat normal in my circle of friends.
summary to my 2008 Aveo from a DIY perspective:
1. I am off a tooth on my timed belt but the pictures and the marks on my old timing belt say I am dead on.
2. My crankshaft sensor has something wrong with it or it needs to be "re-learned" or replaced.
3. The compression gauge I use registered low.
4. I don't have the right tools or all of the knowledge I need to fix the problem the first try, maybe even more tries, but i didn't quit trying.
5. I keep posting to solve my problems and to show other how they might be able to fi their own car.
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