2007 Aveo5 Resurrection: Clutch & Transmission

[TimE]

Here's a thread for my work to revive my 2007 Aveo5 with 84K on it.

This is how I see the work breaking down (bold is the current activity):

1. transmission
   
   
   1. parts ordered/sourced
      
   2. disconnect DRL per Safety Recall 14093
   3. clean up used D16 transmission
   4. remove broken transmission
   5. remove old clutch
   6. install new clutch
   7. install new transmission
   
   
2. replace timing belt
3. replace valve gasket
4. replace the thermostat & housing
5. replace serpentine belt
6. replace front struts
7. replace front brakes
8. replace the air cleaner intake hose & filter
9. replace spark plugs and wires

First questions that come to mind:
- Is there a seal kit or gasket used to mate the transmission to the engine? I'm not finding one. Will consult the shop manual further.

- Are there any secrets to cleaning up an old transmission? I'm thinking engine degreaser, but I certainly don't want water in the crank case. Presently, the ports are stuffed with oily rags and I'm thinking that might be sufficient to keep the moisture out. Thoughts? Does it even matter if it's clean externally? other than for handling?

[petrified.rabbit]

there is no gasket, as there is no fluid/gases in between them.

If you want it clean, using a spot spray like brake clean or something with a rag is all i would do. its not necessary.

Since you have the transmission out I would replace the input shaft seal, and axles shaft seals before going back in. I would also probably consider doing the rear main seal on the engine just in case. I would hate to have to tear it down again to do either of those.

I would probably also drain and refill the transmission oil. Get oem or better.


When you do your struts, make sure you replace the upper mounts as well. i find they are usually half the issue.

[TimE]

Check on the cleaning! Looks like most of the last guys' clutch is smattered around the inside of the housing, so I'll get that outta there. And then it's mostly grease all over the externals. Original host must have had a leaky engine cause it's a mess.

So four additional seals to replace. Is there an OEM part number lookup table or index available somewhere? The shop manuals I'm looking at do not indicate part numbers for these items.

Checking a place like Rockauto shows only a output shaft seal--so two of those--and one engine rear main seal. Not finding the input shaft seal.

[petrified.rabbit]

i can't find anything either, is there a bushing on your new transmission behind the release bearing? I can't tell from the brake down in the manual either. it does both gear assemblies. but not a seal break down..

[TimE]

OK. Spent the day cleaning up the new transmission and prepping for other work...

Once I get the car up on jacks and roll under for another inspection of the work ahead, I find that the skunk of a tech at the Chev dealer lied. He never checked the fluids. In fact, the gearbox was never exposed. It is entirely intact!!

So I backed out the bolt form the broken mount and put it into the hole that was empty.

At the Chev dealer, the mechanic told me the top of the transfer case was ripped off. He said it had emptied all the oil out of the gearbox and demonstrated the gap by actioning the support with a crow bar. Things were too hot to explore much, so I took his word for it.

After spending the day cleaning up my replacement transmission, I get the car up on stands and make a closer inspection...this is what I found:


So using this "extra" bolt I am able to put it in where the other one fell out of and the car is back in commission...for now. At least until my other parts come in. Though now, I'm not sure if I should replace the transmission or not?!? Do you think the JB Weld is now an option again? This is what the flange should look like:

[petrified.rabbit]

so how many bolts do you have in it?

if you have at least as many as factory, then you might be good.

[TimE]

Well I have the two bolts holding the "C" clamp the housing and one that holds the "C" clamp to the standoff. Ideally there would be three bolts holding the "c" clamp to the housing (Note the first image, the area around the vacant hole is clean indicating there was a bolt there not that long ago), but I think two will probably do it as long as it doesn't back out too. I should put a bit of locktite on that bad boy.

To put as many as the factory had, I'd have to get that flange bolt mounted back on the casing... Not sure how to do that...

[2010AveoLT]

Well I have the two bolts holding the "C" clamp the housing and one that holds the "C" clamp to the standoff. Ideally there would be three bolts holding the "c" clamp to the housing (Note the first image, the area around the vacant hole is clean indicating there was a bolt there not that long ago), but I think two will probably do it as long as it doesn't back out too. I should put a bit of locktite on that bad boy.

To put as many as the factory had, I'd have to get that flange bolt mounted back on the casing... Not sure how to do that...

yeaaaah, the Transmission case is made of cast aluminum, and requires special welding.

[petrified.rabbit]

I think you might still be ok for a while anyhow. if you wanted to save yourself of swapping the transmission now.

you could even add a brace to another set of bolts on the block. not that you need to. but it depends on your driving.

worst comes to worst. you have the replacement right there.