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moving my posts here on the head removal.
so far I am stuck on removing the upper alternator bolt to get tension off the accessory belt to remove it and I cannot remove the clips for the injectors. Everything up to the point has been removed.
*edit got the injector plugs removed and the accessory belt removed. Still need to remove the one bolt from the alternator. Considering removing the mount from the head itself.*
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3672944_n.jpg
now that can't be normal
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1984097_n.jpg
and the head is off! Getting reconditioned tomorrow.
how long was this processcause i gotta do the same to my car
Honestly, it can be removed in maybe an hour. I did it throughout the day. It was a bit hot outside, plus if I got hung up on a step I went to my laptop and looked over the FSM.An iPad in a ziplock bag would have been awesome. I just followed the factory service manual and unplugged, unbolted, and moved things. Then a friend came over after work and we removed the head and stripped it of the intake and the other stuff so the machine shop could work on it.
I'm hoping that when I put it all back together soon it runs....
man i hope it works out for you . what was the reason you took it off ?
Got the head back and put the intake back on and all of the other bits. No extra bolts, wooo that's a good sign.
Now waiting on a friend to come over so we can put it back on and properly torque it down then do the timing belt job.
I'm guessing that I will have to get cyl 1 to TDC then line up the cams (notches pointing at each other) and put the belt on. Then tension until the tensioner mark is at point (C)... rotate engine twice then relieve tension to point (B).... then for safeys sake rotate the engine by hand and make sure nothing is binding.
then reconnect everything and turn the key?
sort of like that. dont forget oil, coolant, etc.. and put everything a tdc before putting the head on, or the valves might whack the cylinders..
yeah, fluids are kind of important.
I'm a bit afraid of putting the head back on without someone that has done something like this before.
Cyl 1 is at TDC and I have the cams sprockets off the head at the moment(followed the instructions) so I think cyl 1 is where it should be(no way of telling unless I have the sprockets back on and line up the marks)
with out the cams, the head is not in time, as all the valves are closed. but if that is the procedure your following, just make sure when you bolt the cams in they will not need turned to tdc.. get them as close as possible.
oh, sorry.. the cams are on the head.. The cam gears (sprockets) are not on the cams.
Head is on. Torquing it down was somewhat easy.A real angle gauge is something I need to buy and just have. However, a sharpie and protractor can be useful.
now im going back out to the car to put the rear timing cover on, new tensioner, idler pulley, misc plugs, hoses, etc. So we can do the belt later tomorrow.
the 90* turns, or 180* (whichever they recommend) do not need to be perfect, but if you stand still, and run the length of your arm down the wrench to hold the socket for leverage, then make @ a 90* angle with your arm and the ratchet, it will definitely be good enough.
hope it fires right up for you..
We did the eyeball 90* (its actually 60,60,60,10). Just put the intake support bracket on. That is fun to put back on since you do it blind(well I did)
Waiting until later this evening to put timing belt on, tension it, change the oil, add coolant and make a sacrifice to the car gods (I think a Hyundai Accent should do) and crank.
I did this last spring and it wasn't bad. The worst was doing it without this forums! I had no clue on most of the stuff but I have a lot of mechanical experience.
Good luck!
Oh yeah, without this forum I wouldn't have the FSM.
everything but the belt is on. Did I ever mention that the waterpump mounting is just odd.
I'm about to go out and change the oil, add coolant, double check everything. Just waiting for a friend to come over
it's all back together and timed and everything but... It's giving us difficulty cranking and turning over and it has a ton of blow by.... :/ Charles, the tech, is completely baffled.
blow by of what? rings, valves, head gasket?
no idea. I put the head gasket on properly, torqued down the head in the correct sequence. It can't be the rings since it did not have such terribly blow by before this event (losing time) happened.
oil and coolant are not mixing. I used an oem head gasket, new head bolts. the head was skimmed, the block was scrapped clean.
then how do you know you have blow by?
We removed the oil cap while it was running and its puffing like an old steam train. That and the hose from the valve cover that recirculates combustion gasses was puffing a lot of smoke.
if you pull the dip stick does it puff too? then it would most likely be rings..
if its only in the top end it could be valve guide seals? but even so it should NOT do that unless the valves are still bent.
its not back firing through the throttle body? does he have a cylinder leakdown tester?
No puffs from dipstick tube, no backfires through throttle. He did say today that letting it idle for a bit has helped. Perhaps the valves need to break in the new seals? I had the bent valves replaced. New plugs and wires are going on. It's starting up just fine now. The engine coolant temp sensor want plugged in so it caused the ecu to dump too much fuel and foul the plugs.
Put new plugs and wires and it runs a lot better. We removed one of the hoses for the PCV system and it was not blowing anything noticeable. Same thing with the oil cap.
did you have one of the wires crossed?
No idea.
Step dad drove it today and it stalled twice. He said the RPM's seem to be a bit higher than normal in idle and the other time it stalled the RPM's were a bit low.
only thing i could think of, if you hooked everything up (i still miss stuff, so i am sure its possible for you) and the "internal" is correct, is that maybe your temp switch doesnt work correctly now that it dried out with coolant removal. ive seen it before on other cars.
it could idle high stuck in warm up, then cuts too much fuel when it finally changes to regular running.
no codes or anything yet? 3 cycles. you might just need to do a relearn of something as well.
Check engine light is on. Going to get te codes checked at autozone and stop by the shop Monday. My step dad said it stalls when he slows down. The rpms drop really low and it dies.
Still throwing a p420 code.
secondary o2 or a clogged cat..
wonderful. Hopefully the cat isn't clogged. It only has 20-30k on it. I need to pick up some new vacuum connectors since some are broken from age/being disturbed during head removal
maybe it just needs to burn some pot? :P haha.
Did you get this beast running good w/o any issues again?
It's running. But my step dad just called me and what I think he was describing is it hesitating when accelerating or something of that manner.
Just took it out for a spin.
at 2500 rpm's the engine makes a horrible racket. Kind of like a knocking sound but at high revs. Then if you gas it, the engine hesitates.
Plus my step dad said it was low on oil. He had to add 2-3 quarts to get it back to normal. I'm not exactly happy at the moment.
2-3 qts!?!?! Not good, he may have ran the oil pump dry on stops or turns if it was that low, only takes a few seconds of no oil pressure while the engine is running to damage a bearing(s) which will cause a knock, also if something got tight up top (cams) w/ low oil pressure while running it could have slipped the timing belt so check to see if the marks still line up 1st!!
I swear, this is a never ending headache. I honestly hate the aveo.
If the place that rebuild the head screwed up the job I am going to be very pissed. I put the head on as per the FSM, triple checked everything, torqued it down as per the FSM. I did it all by the book.
i just went and read all the posts (both threads) from the beginning. It sounds like currently our problem is going to be bearings. But when you did the head, did you put all the oil back in it? I am asking because aside from the typical 1/2 quart coating on the valve train that you will loose, that is a lot of oil to lose, you should be able to track it.
I did the oil and filter after the head went on. I put in the Oil until it was at the full mark. I think 4.25 quarts
Well, I'm a bit mad now. He said the noise is getting louder... Awesome.. It's going to the mechanic tomorrow
what was end result out of time one tooth?