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    Thread: 04 Aveo Hatchback getting new engine!

    1. #51
      What's wrong with my car?
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      A few misc. questions!

      As I'm wrapping this project up, I have a few lingering questions if anyone would care to comment on.

      1. The GM service manual said to torque the head bolts to 18 ft/lbs, then 60 deg. another 60 deg. another 60 deg. and a final 10 deg. so that is what I did.

      After already doing this, I later came across a website that says for a 2004, you are supposed to torque them to 18 ft/lbs, then 70 deg., another 70 deg. and a final 50 deg. and the 2005 should be torqued like I did. Well since my car is a 2004, is this going to be a problem? They both add up to 190 deg. so I'm not sure what difference this would make, but I'm a little paranoid if I did it wrong?


      2. I see no way to hold the cam sprockets so they can be torqued to the proper ft/lbs. I obviously don't want the cams turning since it is bolted back onto the block now. I cranked them on tight with my air impact wrench. Is this going to be good enough? If not, how to do I hold the stupid things down to torque them properly???

      thanks guys. JP



    2. #52
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      190 is 190.. as long as you did it in even increments and in order from center out, the head will be flat and correct.

      if you got the on with air, your probably over the torque, but once you get the belt on and such, hold the still with a prybar or something through the pulley and torque (check) them a little more. the belt will turn the engine over in unison if it does move, and the bar would hold it still.


    3. #53
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      Quote Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit View Post
      190 is 190.. as long as you did it in even increments and in order from center out, the head will be flat and correct.

      if you got the on with air, your probably over the torque, but once you get the belt on and such, hold the still with a prybar or something through the pulley and torque (check) them a little more. the belt will turn the engine over in unison if it does move, and the bar would hold it still.
      great, thanks alot Rabbit!

    4. #54
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      Got the timing belt on right, I think?

      I got the 41mm wrench in the mail today that I ordered from Ebay. Only problem was, it didn't fit! It fit the old water pump, which was original but it seems the new water pump is aftermarket and is not actually 41mm. I was able to make it work by hammering it on.

      The belt was a little trickier than I expected. I ended up putting it on the 2 cam sprockets 1st, then around the tensioners and water pump and slid it on the crank pully last. I had to turn the crank pully so the marks were slightly off, then when I did the adjustment it straightened out and I believe it is on correct.

      I was wondering if someone would check out these pics and verify that it looks to be correct? I'm pretty confident it is right, but it doesn't hurt to get a 2nd opinion. I won't be able to get to it tomorrow, but I should have it all back together and ready to try and start this thing on Friday!

      Also, I'm assuming the belt is not directional (ie. can be put on either way?) I didn't see any reference to which way it it's supposed to rotate. Is this true?

      Thanks, JP

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      Last edited by gone-Jonphilip; 09-01-2011 at 02:40 AM.

    5. #55
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      looks ok.. the belt goes on with the teeth to the inside..


    6. #56
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      Quote Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit View Post
      the belt goes on with the teeth to the inside..
      ha ha thanks rabbit! i didn't think the rotation direction mattered, but I did see on another website some guy mentioning to make sure the belt rotation is set correctly. apparently that belt had arrows and had to spin in the direction of the engine.

      thanks for verifying the timing marks. I should have the rest of this car back together soon. I'll let everyone know if it runs or not! if it doesn't run, it's for sale!

    7. #57
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      "Daug":

      Found this link on another forum (Chilton's Library, online.. and free!):

      https://elibrary.mel.org/validate?ur...ch%3Fdb%3DCHLL

      Michigan Department of Education, eLibrary (free access to Michigan residents)

      To enter, all you need do is provide a MI driver's license number... or "generic equivalent" - one letter and ten digits...

      This example is easy, and works every time: A1234567890

      Search by inputting year, manufacturer, and model.

      Select "repair", "maintenance", or "bulletins/recalls" - and you're off and running!

    8. #58
      Almost time to do my timing belt daug1502's Avatar
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      Thanks ResqDogz, I have that link bookmarked, looks like a lot of good info, I can't wait for chilton to release the full book to buy.
      http://www.aveoforum.com/phpBB3/view...p?f=41&t=28184
      2008 Aveo5 SV

      I will think of a better signature later.

    9. #59
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      We have a winner!

      I got the engine all back together and fired it up Friday morning. It started pretty easily, but was ticking really bad. I only let it run for a few minutes and then was starting to freak out a little pondering what may have went wrong. So I started it again and the ticking was not as bad so I let it run again for a few minutes and then shut it off. After I started it the 3rd time is was quiet as a mouse. So I'm thinking it took a few minutes to get oil up to the lifters, or they were just getting seated in properly; not sure. At any rate it seems to run really good. I've only taken it on 2 short trips to Walmart but I'm considering this project a victory! The only thing I have left is to get a new breather tube because it was tore. For now I followed Daox's lead and used duct tape.

      I want to send a huge thanks to everyone that anwered my posts, especially Rabbit, my dad, and my friend Nick from work! I couldn't have figured all of this out without everyone's help. Time to wrap this thread up. I hope someone else considering this job finds this thread useful! God bless ... JP
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